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having issues with my HIDs

P

painthorsemoe

New member
i cant seem to view any posts while im at work so im making this thread.

i have upgraded to the hids in my 2007 gxp

my left light has been giving me the most problems

it flickering and when i drive during the day (DRLs) the left wont come on.

during the night i see it "bouncing"


checked it is tight in the housing. its the tube itself.

i have changed my ballasts quite a few time to no prevail

nor have the relay harnesses helped at all.

thinking about turning the DRls off but i cant figure out how.

any help would be greatly appreciated.
 


what brand hids you buy? i had flickering on drivers side and was just the cheap realy harness i had mixed with bad ground.

Then with the drls there isnt enough voltage running through them. but if you have a harness this should correct that, if not i would be looking at faulty ballast
 
I would say it has something to do w/your drl's... if they're anything like my TBSS, then they need to be killed... drl's typically run at 70% power and about 10V instead of 100% power and 12V when your headlights are on, and the signal is pulsated for drl's... the relay harness simply protects your stock wiring harness.. it has nothing to do with drl's... I know for the trailblazer platform we can add a diode to make the drl's run at 100%, but I'm no sure about the GP platform..
 
i am gonna go against what the above is saying cause i have no issues with the drl. a harness has a relay wictch doesnt pulsate thus create a 12 volt with a triggerd source. i would still look at othere possibities.
 
I've changed the ballasts a few time with different brands.

So how can I kill the drl?

And yeah the relay harness I bought didn't change anything.

I really don't want to shut off my drls so how can I make them run full power?
 
Jteske88 said:
i am gonna go against what the above is saying cause i have no issues with the drl. a harness has a relay wictch doesnt pulsate thus create a 12 volt with a triggerd source. i would still look at othere possibities.
Click to expand...

Just me thinking also. The relay switch doesn't change the voltage by my understanding. It only steadies the power
The relay can only put out the same amount of power that is being put into it. But if it does where are the other 2v coming from? Unless your thinking of it as like a Capacitor for an amp.
 


the relay has 12volt from battery, switch from original headlight wiring, and 12volt out from the 12 volt in. nothing like a cap in anyway, unless your battery is dyeing and not producing 12v,
 
Battery is brand new just put it in a week ago.

But when I'm running the drls does it run 10v or 12v?

Oh an I have since last night removed the relay
 
Maybe check the connections inside the oem plug. Sometimes they corrosion on them which would give a bad connection.
 
well i would say put it back in cause that will cause you to get the 10 volts for sure, you have to have other elctrical problems going on
painthorsemoe said:
Battery is brand new just put it in a week ago.

But when I'm running the drls does it run 10v or 12v?

Oh an I have since last night removed the relay
Click to expand...
 
Drl's run at a 70% pulsated signal... I'm not familiar with the GP platform as much as I am with my SS.. I know for the trailblazers, we need to kill drl's or do the capicitor mod at our BCM.. without those, we run into major problems with HID's.. if we do the cap mod, we don't need relay harness' as the cap mod makes the drl's function at 100%.. and a relay for the tralblazers only protects the stock wiring, has nothing to do with make drl's run at 100%.... but it looks like the GP's are slightly different.. that's why I won't run them in my '01 GP, stupid auto headlights and drl's.. I know how to kill the drl's but since I have an '01, I can't pull the drl fuse to kill the autolights too...
 


in 97-03 its simple to disable, on 04+ bcm related, not gonna beat a dead dog here but quit talking about th 70% bs, if you use a harness wont matter cause it will give the ballast 12 volts no matter what the trigger input is.
 
Jteske88 said:
in 97-03 its simple to disable, on 04+ bcm related, not gonna beat a dead dog here but quit talking about th 70% bs, if you use a harness wont matter cause it will give the ballast 12 volts no matter what the trigger input is.
Click to expand...

No its not simple, well kinda yea but still lol.. '97-'00 you can pull the fuse and/or heat sync, '01-'03, it doesn't work via the fuse.. unless ur gonna tell me that when I pull my fuse and get the constant clicking of auto headlights is normal... the heat sink works to kill drl's but not autolights...

And the 70% isn't BS.. anyone who knows about electrical in any gm vehicle, knows that drl's function at less lower power and it's a pulsated signal... if your car is off and you turn your lights on, why will your ballasts buzz? You have a relay hooked up to you battery that is 12V, but yet, they'll still buzz until you turn the car on.. why is that then??... I know what the harness' function is and primarily, they are used to protect your factory wiring... and also pull power from the battery... but at startup! Not for the duration that the drl's are on.. Some vehicles might be able to power up HID systems normally without problems. The inrush load can be up to max 13 amps per ballast, compared to 7amps inrush when using halogen/stock bulbs. The factory design parameters for headlight circuits are usually 7 amps inrush and 4.5 amps continuous load. So over time, connectors, multifunction switch, headlight switch, wiring and fuse holders will slowly degrade, because of heat buildup. (I have 2 relay harness' on my SS, but you should still kill drl's to prolong the life of the bulb and ballast), obviousy the harness doesn't matter in the OP's case.. he is having problems with it and without it.. so its either a bad relay, , ballasts, bulb, or something else... just because yours work doesn't mean others do... each car is different and each HID manufacturer is different...

To the OP, hope you can figure things out.. I have VVME 35W HID's low's and fog's in my SS, had them for over 2 years now w/zero issues..

Edit: while jogging today, noticed that later model GP's have drl's in the bumpers and are orange... so drl's wouldn't matter/cause issues... and also going off of what TJeno posted... my apologies for the confusion...
 
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A bud of mine had the same problem with his DRLs, he installed a relay and problems solved.

I'm picking mine up from the post office on Monday..so excited. :) (And thank god '04s don't have DRLs.)
 
thanks blzer i appreciate it. well i have been working around some things and the only thing i have to do now is just hit the switch during dayime running and itll shut off my lights which is fine with me. so what brand are the best to use? i have been using the cheapy kinds which i have with my 93 z71 and i have no issues at all. so saying this what should be my next step onto upgrading to better? brands, types, color. anything will help. i just want my car to look good. like everyone else lol



P.S. and just curious. on the gxp's i know that the front bumper is different from the original GP's. i was wanting to kind of change it up a little bit and was gonna try to take out those round running lights and put leds in the elongated holes under them and use the original holes to possibly pipe up cold air into the engine compartment. anyone ever done that? or any ides on what to use?
 
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