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Have a small amount of cash. DP, HV3, or PLOG?



well thats what i thought. Any ideas on what numbers should be, i would be stupid and say 0. but i dont know how to use a scanner to monitor so that whay ill have him do it. I only know how to check codes and turn them off.
 
98GT3800 said:
well thats what i thought. Any ideas on what numbers should be, i would be stupid and say 0. but i dont know how to use a scanner to monitor so that whay ill have him do it. I only know how to check codes and turn them off.
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im in the same boat but i'd say it's best to start learning lol :th_thumbsup-wink: once and a while u might need to know...i wish i could learn, i would...
 
I need to get a new pcm. I want to elimante the rev. limiter, increase the shifting points and tables, also have the skip shift. I have a K&N Air Filter in the stock Air Box that I would like to redo the intake, and Flomaster Exhaust Bolt On with the Cat still on it....I want to get a lil more hp. out of this thing so if any of you know how to get a few more hp. besides the intake and pcm please let me know... Also what is the best pcm to get and where if you could answer that to.

Thanks
Josh
 
idealy you want 0* KR, its very hard to get that. They're is always blips of KR. Stock KR is pretty bad. A tune from OVERKILL and some breathing mods helped. Usually if im running 93 and a cold day most KR ill get on WOT would be 4-5* with the occasional blips which isnt too bad. If you plan on doing a top swap,you want very little to no KR.< read somewhere on here 2* or less, (if i remember correctly) Colder air will help with KR a little bit, some other things you can open up the exaust a bit, get a 180* T-stat, and get a good tune. Best tune is always a dyno. A magnaflow cat will set your ses light. You could send out your pcm so someone could remove that code. You could get yourself an aeroforce scan gauge and an a-pillar pod to scan for KR. The scan gauge is a bit much but its worth it, especially if your going to do bigger mods down the road.
 
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Back when the gt was my main car i spent $225 on performance, i only bought used stuff too.

$15 for a rigged together fwi with 9" filter
$10 180* thermo
$30 Intense pcm
$70 2.5" cat'd dp
$100 plog
 
i havent spend much, i went to lowes got 4" pvc piping painted black with a clamp. didnt cost me but $8 bucks. Thermo, and i cut cat off myself and welded straight pipe in place. But i did feel a huge difference in intake and downpipe. Cant wait for the PCM. i got my 605's just havent put them in yet. But im lookin for a gen 4 aluminum upper intake and a HV3. Thats whats next.

My cousin used to work at autozone, he used to buy a tuner and tune his buddys cars then take it back, I like to say he rented it and got a full refund.
 
buy a used 2.5 DP because it is right for a GT and they dont sell for anything on the forums because most want a 3 inch and you prolly still have enough for a used HVII maybe a HV III blem or used. Meet a nearby member buy them some lunch and get them to give you a base tune. Best Bang for the buck right there
 
Yeah i think 3" is overkill. The stock down pipe is 2.5 is why we modded it and used straight pipe from the down bend all the way to the resinator. Heck of a difference in the KR* readings
 
Dumb question??? My mods are listed on my sig. Catless down-pipe, Intake, 605's, and soon Hv3.
Im getting ready to order An overkilll pcm. Say i get the PCM now. Do i need to send it back when i get my HV3 to have it tuned.
Then have it sent back when i get rockers-springs. I know they said to have tuned for most mods, does that include what im doing. Id hate to send it in after every simple mod..
Help is appreciated.
 


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