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harsh shift + brown fluid.. problem?

SJAndrew said:
Brown fluid is a sign of clutch material and heat.
Click to expand...

There's no definate "heat" issue based on brown fluid. If you smell cooked fluid, then I'd say yes. Brown though..that's usually the color of the clutches. And clutches do wear...like brake pads. We don't say the dust on wheels is from heat and pads, it's just the pads. In this case.. just the clutches Ma'am. lol

On the 6 vs 3. 6 is the latest and greatest. It's not necessarily the best, it's the replacement that GM has out.

I use the Coastal (Autozone) fluid commonly as it's one of the thicker fluids out there. Works well for me in transmissions. I've only put 6 in a freshly built trans. And the results are similar. Heck..ScottyDoggs brought some fluid from Tractor Supply. IIRC the price was right.
 


I personally like using 6 cuz it results in cooler running temps of the transmission, and that is definitely a good thing.

Before I did my first pan drop when it had dex 3 in it, my tranny temps were around 205-210.. When I refilled with 6, the temps stay at 190-195... Imo that is proof enough to switch but it is all a matter of opinion.
 
Odd.. I don't see any cooler temps from running 6 vs 3.

My personal preference is .. if the trans has been running 3 and you are doing a pan drop. Put 3 back in. It's cheaper and likely you won't see any changes based on a pan drop service with replacing about half the fluid.
 
ok.. I think I'll stick with 3 from tractor store.
About getting Lucas..what and how many bottle(s) do I buy?
 


THANK YOU ALL -- THE SYMPTOM HAS NOW DISAPPEARED AFTER A SUCCESSFUL (half) FLUID REPLACEMENT. I am so happy!!

A few things I faced during the install
1. the filter seal(?) that came with the new filter didn't fit quite nicely.. I had to pull one from the old filter and reuse it.
2. I ended up using the whole bottle (2 gal) instead of 7.4 quarts. Now it is at the top of the crossed area on the dipstick.

After that it shifts ever so smoothly it feels like a new car! Thank you all again!!
 

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thats not real bad on the sludge either.

you should have seen the mound in my brothers Yukon magnet, looked like 2 mice.
 
New filter seals often see too snug. Which is why.. you try your new filter..if it's snug..you don't touch the seal. If you do the new seal..I find that lubing it with trans fluid, then using a large socket to drive it in ... works like a champ
 


but the old filter came out WITH the seal; I was hoping I wouldn't have to touch the seal too. oh well..

anyway, now that it seems ok -- what's my next fluid change interval? I've read anywhere from 50k to 70k..does this apply to our cars?
 
GM suggests 30K. I do it once a year at the least. The fluid had detergents and seal conditioners in it..and there's a filter in the system.
 
see that makes me feel bad; I had this car since 110k. Now it's at 194k and I didn't know that the fluid needs replacing. I thought I was on top of the maintenance;
Is it ok if I change it when the color changes to brown?
 
That already happened after you refilled it...lol Because the other half of the fluid was brown already ...right?

Do 30K or once a year...whichever happens first.
 
yaa....but now it is pink. pretty. pink.
anyway, what I was asking is to whether I can decide when to replace the filter based on the (dominant) color of the fluid... can I?

I do 3k in less than a month with my commute....so..that'll be 9-10 month. woooooo...
 


You can go back to what you used to do.. not maintain it at all. And again when you come here with an issue, we'll try and help you.

Your car, totally up to you. If you want the spec, advice or normal schedule.. we'll tell you that. From there you're in charge.
 
Thank you -- that's really nice. I've been helped a lot of times by members of this forum and I'm very thankful for it.
 
Plus..you are in KS, I'm not driving out to give you a hard time on your maintenance schedule. Now...if you lived in Mexico and it was winter..lol
 
IT IS BACK.......... on my way from work it did the same thing but at a lesser degree. The engine temp was about a quarter higher too.(relevant?)

We just had a thunderstorm so I had to park somewhere else, and I drove it to my usual spot and it did not do it.
I had to drive a short distance (1/4 block) again afterwards, and after starting the rpm surged about twice.. 800-1500-800-1500-then 800 stable. I'm not sure this is relevant as well.

Could a computer cause a hard shifting as well?
I checked the ATF and it still looks pink.
 
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