Gtp "Shelly" progress thread..
- Thread starter Gstop2006
- Start date
TLSheff
New member
Yay!
First, headers. Always headers. Simple, cheap, effective. A solid foundation for any mods you plan to do.
SSAutoChrome (SSAC) or Speed Daddy headers off Ebay are the best bet. When available they can be had for $200-225 shipped. The only problem with them is the flex pipe is kindof weak, usually best to buy a replacement and have it welded in prior to install. The factory exhaust gaskets are best to use, you'd need a 02 extension for the front 02 sensor, and if you choose to not have the CAT installed you'd need to have it tuned out so you don't have the CEL on all the time.
BillBoost37 has a how-to install that makes it easy with simple tools.
Otherwise, I'd do tint or lower first. Tint being the easiest done and make the biggest difference on the look of the car.
First, headers. Always headers. Simple, cheap, effective. A solid foundation for any mods you plan to do.
SSAutoChrome (SSAC) or Speed Daddy headers off Ebay are the best bet. When available they can be had for $200-225 shipped. The only problem with them is the flex pipe is kindof weak, usually best to buy a replacement and have it welded in prior to install. The factory exhaust gaskets are best to use, you'd need a 02 extension for the front 02 sensor, and if you choose to not have the CAT installed you'd need to have it tuned out so you don't have the CEL on all the time.
BillBoost37 has a how-to install that makes it easy with simple tools.
Otherwise, I'd do tint or lower first. Tint being the easiest done and make the biggest difference on the look of the car.
synysterjoe
Money vortex
I'd take car of rust now before it spreads and you're looking for rear strut towers.
TLSheff
New member
Well you can, but lesson learned is that is a waste of money. All header kits come with pipes/adapters to get rid of the u-bend. So unless you just go to a exhaust shop and have them replace it any downpipe you buy to remove the u-bend will be pulled and replaced once you upgrade to headers. So you can baby step it and spend more in the long run, or just throw down the gauntlets and buy headers now and do it right.
You can if you want. Won't hurt anything. Will lower outlet temps and and get you more flow when you pulley down, but you won't actually notice any difference just porting on a stock setup.
And you WILL need headers before you pulley down. Gotta have the flow mods.
When porting do I take the rotors out of the case ?
What grit do I polish with? And what type of grinding bit?
Also what would be a good parts list for doing the lim and elbows. Valve cove gaskets are fine
im gonna finish my calipers tonight Im thinking about tinting the tails tonight as well
What grit do I polish with? And what type of grinding bit?
Also what would be a good parts list for doing the lim and elbows. Valve cove gaskets are fine
im gonna finish my calipers tonight Im thinking about tinting the tails tonight as well
TLSheff
New member
http://www.grandprixforums.net/going-replace-uim-lim-gaskets-what-exactly-do-i-need-52568.html
^ Thread has all the parts you need (Post#5) and a video link for the how to (Post#8)
Felpro is the choice most go with, they make the best gaskets. Make sure you get the "Problem Solver" metal L67 gaskets, not the factory plastic one, they will break again and you'll have to replace again. Couple vendors sell new aluminum elbows (o-rings included) or you could replace with the standard plastic style (also include o-rings) so just replace both elbows, whichever way you prefer.
EDIT: stay away from Garlock supercharger gaskets, they are commonly referred to as Garleaks for a reason. Stick with the factory ones or Felpro
^ Thread has all the parts you need (Post#5) and a video link for the how to (Post#8)
Felpro is the choice most go with, they make the best gaskets. Make sure you get the "Problem Solver" metal L67 gaskets, not the factory plastic one, they will break again and you'll have to replace again. Couple vendors sell new aluminum elbows (o-rings included) or you could replace with the standard plastic style (also include o-rings) so just replace both elbows, whichever way you prefer.
EDIT: stay away from Garlock supercharger gaskets, they are commonly referred to as Garleaks for a reason. Stick with the factory ones or Felpro
REDCRAPGP
New member
Right after. Then out a few miles on the car with the new oil and change it again.
Engine enamel is what I use
TLSheff
New member
Any paint safe to use up to 400* works, the blower doesn't get close to that so no worries there, just use a good primer and paint and clear.
If you can drain the oil and leave the plug out so any fluid that goes down into the pan just flushes out, then once everything is together, put the plug back in, fill go for a test drive come back and change the oil again. Repeat again after 100 miles if you get paranoid. Then you should be good to go.
EDIT: Suggestion is use cheap oil for the first and second change so its cheaper. Oil won't be in long so no reason to waste the good stuff.
If you can drain the oil and leave the plug out so any fluid that goes down into the pan just flushes out, then once everything is together, put the plug back in, fill go for a test drive come back and change the oil again. Repeat again after 100 miles if you get paranoid. Then you should be good to go.
EDIT: Suggestion is use cheap oil for the first and second change so its cheaper. Oil won't be in long so no reason to waste the good stuff.
Blown motor?? I doubt it sir
nos4blood70
New member
Looks good! Powerwash that engine bay and clean her up some. Headers, tint, pulley, tune.