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gtp not starting

mtz956

New member
my 98 gtp is not starting, it was working fine yesterday and today didnt start. i have to give it gas to be able to stay running. ithink is something to do with the fuelpump. its like when i try to start the car it doesnt start.but i try with steping on the gas a little it turns on but if i let go of the gas it dies. what could it be? it has a new fuelfilter, sparkplugs newtps.:th_scratchhead:
 


Check your fuel pressure regulator to see if its leakin gas into the vac line, Your iac might be shot not allowing air into the engine with out the throttle applied.
 
how can i know if the fuel pressure regulator is bad? i removed it and some fuel came out of there. i need to put it back on i was thinkig of
a fuel pressure regulator bad . wat u mean when u say iac ?:th_crossbones1:
any other suggestions. thanks in advance.
 
how can i know if the fuel pressure regulator is bad?

You can try the FPR suck test, I am not 100% sure if it will work for your grand prix, but I think it will.

Chugging - Grand Am Owners Club Forums
Credit rixGAphx

SUCK TEST - FPR

This test is used to identify a Fuel Pressure Regulator with a damaged internal diaphragm.
The FPR has a spring-loaded valve that the limits the maximum fuel pressure to 45 psi (54 psi for ‘02+ engines).
At idle and low speed cruise (less than 2500 rpm), the system must have 9 psi less pressure; this is accomplished by intake manifold vacuum pulling against the diaphragm and causing early return of fuel to the tank.
When the diaphragm ruptures with age, then the 9-psi drop not longer occurs and raw fuel is pulled/pushed into the intake manifold; this causes the engine to hesitate upon acceleration (since the fuel pressure can’t step-up the 9 psi) and a flooded condition when starting the engine after running short errands.

TEST:
* Locate FPR at end of fuel rail.
* Identify small vacuum hose from top of FPR to Intake Manifold; disconnect tube from intake manifold, and inspect for cracks, leaks, poor connection.
* With engine ‘off’, a mechanic would use a Might-Vac or similar vacuum tool to suck on the tube against the FPR.
* The FPR *should* ‘hold vac,’ about 14 psi; if it doesn’t, then the diaphragm has failed and a new $50 FPR is in order.
* In the absence of a Mighty-Vac, use your lips to suck on the tube against the FPR; again, it should ‘hold vac’, like sucking on a soda straw with your finger over it.
* There will always be a *slight* odor or taste of gasoline present, which is of no concern.
BUT, a ruptured diaphragm will allow a slug of raw gasoline thru the tube and toward your mouth, which becomes quite unpleasant; use a rag for mouth protection, or use some clear aquarium tubing in lieu of the stock vacuum tube, so you can see approaching gasoline.
 


hey, this morning i removed da idler air control valve or sensor, and it mas cover with carbon or greasy stuff.
icon6.gif
i think that is dirty , it looks like is burned. could that cause da car not to start?:th_skull:
 
The same thing happened to me the other day on my gtp.
drove it into the garage,went to back it out and it would only stay running for a few seconds then die out.....someone here told me about the relay/bending the pin.
The car started right up and work like it dod a few days ago
 
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