• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

    6. NO FEELER THREADS. You are either selling it or you aren’t selling it.

    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

GR8racingfool

No hood = the ULTIMATE inter cooler. ;)


But anyone can take a stock LIM and plumb a spray bar into it. If its done right yes, will work just fine. I was going to mod mine this way, but with my set up/design the alternator posed a threat to changing jets out.

With the spacer plate, its only 1" thick and the spray bar is exposed in the middle where the blower out let is, and the rest for intake runners 5 & 6 is machined into the plate. Then the LIM is "slightly" modified to allow this to work.

Lots or measuring and planning ahead of time, yes, if can be done. Hood clearance I can see being a problem with any after market hood. My MPD F1 hood, has the same underbelly if you will, as a stock hood. Another good reason why I went with this hood.

~F~
 


strutknobs.jpg


what are these knobs for?
 
I'd like to get the intake manifold (upper) from my 3.1 Turbo polished. What do you think you could do with that? Price?
 
Hey Jason, I saw the pics of the new ZZP valve covers you did. Those look pretty damn good. How much did you charge for those? Also, ZZP has some new billit aluminum dog bones in their stock, what would you charge to polish/chrome plate those?

Thanks man,
Tom
 
I charged $50.00 a valve cover for the ZZP ones.

Aluminum dog bones, they usually run about $25.00 to no more than $30.00 to polish. If you want aluminum parts chrome plated, I have to send them out of state to have that done. They don't come out nice to my standards if they are done here. But if they are steel, like the stock ones...
cpdogbones2.jpg

they can be chrome plated here no problem.

I also powder coat them a lot of the time too. Like the ones in the pictures I posted. Red, Blue, and purple too. (colors to choose from are in the 500's)

~F~
 


This could turn out great for you, yet a very very bad thing for my car savings account. I would guess that the shifter boot should work for my monte as well it looks like i should atleast. I think I may be interested.

As for the up keep on the polished and plated piece...have you had any comments back on them after say a winter season?
 
The Girlfriend drives her 1997 GTP year round. Her car turns a nice shade of dull white, with all the road salt on it. She has an F1 hood, which allows some of all that road grime into her engine bay, and yes, on her blower.

The blowers I do, if the customers have me disassemble and reassemble them, get cleaned in a special cleaner mix I have developed by accident. Not only does it clean the aluminum well, it seals the polished finish good, and acts as a barrier against the elements.

If you get the blower wet, after the "chemical bath" I give it, the polished aluminum finish WILL BEAD WATER off as if it had a wax job on a painted car. :D

So, back to the girlfriends blower...yes gets dirty, and yes it cleans back up with little to no effort after the crappy weather is over with. You do have to clean it, cause if it sits on it long enough, you will have some work ahead of you cleaning off the etched grime. That goes for anything that the road salt/grime touches...it leaves a nasty film on it. But if you make the effort to clean your car yearly after the snowy season...you will be more than fine.

Upkeep is pretty normal for any polished part. I use Mothers Mag and Aluminum Wheel polish on mine. Just a quick 5 minute wipe down before a car show and I'm done. More or less I am getting rid of smuges, like finger prints and sweaty arms that bump it while working else where under the hood. Not really polishing it.

Others have went as far as using "Zoop Seal" on theirs. Side by side 2 years later, you cant tell the difference between them, sealed, and not sealed.

~F~
 


I have a couple things that need to be polished also, I sent you messages just waiting to hear back farns. Let me know.

Thanks
Troy
 
I also might add in here, that I am able to make others products a little more appealing to the true Grand Prix enthusiast.


prj1.jpg

prj2.jpg

prj3.jpg


Mirror polished after market fuel logs. All the red anodizing was removed, and OMG they shine like there is no tomorrow!

~F~
 
Working on a new project currently. Its for a local Vette owner and his line of car, but it can be carried on over to our cars as well. In house testing being done currently...I think it will stand the test of time quite nicely.

carbontubes1.jpg

carbontubes3.jpg

carbontubes4.jpg


Not bad for .081" (2.06mm) +/- .005" thick carbon fiber with a tensile strength of 64,000 PSI. I figure there it a little more than 800 lbs. sitting on it, full weight of the car on it, and the tube isn't even turning oval. :th_thumbsup-wink:

More than good enough for what its going to be used for.

~F~
 


Working on a new project currently. Its for a local Vette owner and his line of car, but it can be carried on over to our cars as well. In house testing being done currently...I think it will stand the test of time quite nicely.



Not bad for .081" (2.06mm) +/- .005" thick carbon fiber with a tensile strength of 64,000 PSI. I figure there it a little more than 800 lbs. sitting on it, full weight of the car on it, and the tube isn't even turning oval. :th_thumbsup-wink:

More than good enough for what its going to be used for.

~F~


and that would be?
 
I ain't telling. puft. :rolleyes:

Once mine is made, and the left overs are all sold and out of the way to locals who sparked interest, THEN I will show you all, then others can copy all they want from there. LOL It will not be a production item from me. For now. ;)

~F~
 
Whats the time table for getting a gen 5 polished and returned to the owner now? Also what does it cost? Let me know.

Thanks
Troy
 
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