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Got A Dilema, Which Engine Support

SyntheticShield said:
James, thank you for your insight. I was given a 1/2" socket extension that is 36" long not two weeks ago, so I just need an adapter and I'll be good to go there. I would really like to pull the engine but doing the tranny is a challenge in and of itself for me and I dont have a cherry picker in which to pull the engine out. I wish I did. Heck I wish I had more garage or storage room, there are several tools I would like to have.

Does anyone know where I can get the cradle mount bushings at. If Im going to drop the cradle I want to replace those bushings completely. Heck if I could get my hands on one Id just replace it with an aluminum cradle but time is against me on that one.
Click to expand...

ummm... if you're pullin the engine/trans together, you drop the whole thing out the bottom, yo!

no cherry picker there!
 


Well all I have is a 2.5 ton floor jack for things coming out that end. I was going to have to go find me one of those adapters that mount to you floor jack for the transmission.

I dont want to balance all that on the floor jack plate, could get dicey.
 
ok here it goes...

you may be better off dropping the engine/trans/cradle together

remove the DP (easier removal) unbolt the rack from the subframe undo the LCA balljoints remove the axles. pull the rack rods outta the knuckles and remove the struts (more room)
after removing everything else in the way (i'd rec removal of the SC & alternator bracket for sliding it out from under the car)
remove the starter/flexplate to converter bolts. remove the engine to trans brace/electrical connectors.
get one/two furniture dollies from harbor freight etc (we got two 1k lb dollies for 10$ each...let me tell ya one held up the heavy end of a 2700lb lathe rolling down a trailer ramp, so one might be just fine)

after everything is outta the way/fluids drained break the subframe bolts free about 5 turns. lower the car down so that the subframe is on/just above the dollies finish removal of subframe bolts taking care to crib up the subframe in spots for good contact with the dollies, the less likely the subframe is to shift on the dollies the easier install will be.
make sure the parking brake is locked and rear wheels chocked

after the subframe is on the dollies, take your jack and lift the front of the car up from the pinch welds or better yet the unibody rails 1-2 inches each side using jackstands to inch it up the front of the car is extreemly light at this point making it easier to lift it high, get it up in the air roll the whole shebang out through a wheel well or if you lifted high enough right outta the front...most times if i'm just doing a trans i wont even roll it out all the way just enough to get the trans accesible for removal from the drivers wheel well (engine partially under drivers side of engine bay)
at this point crib up the engine oil pan with wood (a packjage of doorway/window frame shims work great! and cheap!) just zip out the trans to engine bolts, remove the trans mount yank the trans off the subframe throw the new one in...

IROR

btw yeah thats basically how we get the rear drivetrain outta the 442:D

thank god we'll have a lift at the new shop lol
 
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