• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Good to be back

04lss

04lss

New member
I had to give my 97 GTP to my father (as a trade for rebuilding my POS ford) so I haven't had a wbody for a while.
Found a $400 GTP and now im back :) .
While I was gone I bought a 2015 Jetta turbo because it gets ~40 mpg and 0-60 takes about 7.5 seconds.
One thing I have discovered, people on other forums are freaking MORONS. Just about every non wbody forum ive been to, including VW vortex, the ford fusion forum, the kia forums, the people know nothing about there cars. 95% of the people on these forums have probably never changed there own oil. Asking a technical question guarantees a dead thread.


Come here, ask for torque specs on the water pump housing bolts, and you have three people answering, get a how to guide, and can actually believe (usually) the answers.

Half the reason I pulled the trigger on the GTP was because I knew I could get useful info from the forums.

Thanks for being classy Wbody guys!
 


i just made them all tight. all but the 2 crank sensor bolts, those get 13 fp.

theres a few bolts that need sealant on the threads like the 4 long water pump bolts and iirc theres was a few more in the cover that went right through the block into the coolant jackets as well. so i just put sealant n em all.

the new gasket, at the bottom of the block where it meets the oil pan you want to smear rtv about 2 inches up on both sides, ( i went up to the locating pins) then put the gasket in place and smear rtv again 2 inches up from the pan, then put the cover on.

its a good idea to smear some rtv on the top of the oil pan gasket thats exposed as well. seals that whole area up good like that.
 
ScottyDoggs said:
i just made them all tight. all but the 2 crank sensor bolts, those get 13 fp.

theres a few bolts that need sealant on the threads like the 4 long water pump bolts and iirc theres was a few more in the cover that went right through the block into the coolant jackets as well. so i just put sealant n em all.

the new gasket, at the bottom of the block where it meets the oil pan you want to smear rtv about 2 inches up on both sides, ( i went up to the locating pins) then put the gasket in place and smear rtv again 2 inches up from the pan, then put the cover on.

its a good idea to smear some rtv on the top of the oil pan gasket thats exposed as well. seals that whole area up good like that.
Click to expand...

you were one of the people I was thinking about when I wrote this scotty :th_king-normal:
 
theres not a lot of bolts left that ive not touched on this damn car so far lol

tearing the engine to a short block and re gasketing it all was the last job ive done to it. heart transplant lol
 
Ive torn the engine down twice in one of these cars, and rebuilt them.
But then they were out of the car at the time.
 
mine came out for sure. its so much nicer when its on a stand and yo can stand next to it, roll it over, turn it sideways. way nicer then in the car. rockers and springs was a walk in the park compared to doing them in the car.
 


im flip flopping between a cam and rocker on my build plan.
last time I tried to cam, my father helped me and we did it through the fender well, yikes.
Major PITA (that and it didn't time right, and left a piece of metal under the balance shaft Monte GO BOOM)
If I go cam which I probably will, Im pulling the engine out this time.
 
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