• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Good Easy to Install Replacement Tweeters?

Hippo Machine

Hippo Machine

Because Wet Leaves
I'm very sorry if this question has been asked but what are some easy to fit/ install tweeters to replace the one's my car's previous owner blew out? I'm not looking to spend much, as I have run out of nearly all my money :(. I don't need them right now, I think they were unplugged when I bought the car, and when you plug what my Dad thought were the mid range speakers in, the tweeters chirp loud annoying crinkling sounds. Doesn't sound too bad without them, but could be replaced eventually.

Also do you think the previouds owner changed the low range speakers in the rear if you have to onstantly lower the bass range on the equalizer becuase it sounds bad at mid bass/ has too much base? Even if I move the lowest part of the EQ to the middle or lower?

Thanks for answering! :)
 


Here are some stock tweeters...I'd stick with those if you're runnin stock equipment. You can tell if your rear are stock by looking up at the bottom of them from the trunk.
D6 98 99 00 01 02 03 GRAND PRIX SPEAKER / TWEETER | eBay

If the stock tweeters were unplugged, there is a good chance that the p/o changed the stock midrange to a coaxial speaker. You will want to check that and make sure. If there is an aftermarket speaker in there and you connect the tweeters, the impedance will drop and will blow your head unit in time.
 
:th_scratchhead: I'm not sure if I understand what youre saying about the rear speakers but if the bass starts to distort when you turn the volume up your rear speakers are probly blown and need replaced
 
TheNoob23 said:
:th_scratchhead: I'm not sure if I understand what youre saying about the rear speakers but if the bass starts to distort when you turn the volume up your rear speakers are probly blown and need replaced
Click to expand...

It just sounds like I'm gonna blow out the speakers on lower volume when I flat-line the EQ. And the bass at higher volumes, flat-lined sounds... not really distorted, just... bad, and i really like a lil' extra bass most of the time!
 


No such thing as heavy bass midrange speakers. Subs were designed for bass, everything else were designed for mids and highs. And like I posted above, you can tell real easily if someone replaced your rear speakers with aftermarket...just open you trunk and look at the bottom of the speakers
 
Hippo Machine said:
It just sounds like I'm gonna blow out the speakers on lower volume when I flat-line the EQ. And the bass at higher volumes, flat-lined sounds... not really distorted, just... bad, and i really like a lil' extra bass most of the time!
Click to expand...

You're getting into physics. There's a reason why you have a tweeter and mid. There's a reason why quality installations have sub-woofers. A mid-woofer can't play a 20hz frequency very well at all. It will end up damaging the voice coil before anything good happens.

Bottom line, you either have a speaker that can play as low as 20hz or you don't. Most mid-woofers do NOT play well below ~50hz. Mid-ranges typically don't play well below 125hz. A mid-woofer includes a mid-range and a tweeter. Two way setups which is what's installed in our vehicle are better at one, the other, or play both kinda blah.

So if you want a speaker that plays decent below, 125hz in our vehicles, you need a sub or at a minimum 3-way speaker setup. Even then, you need a sub if you have music that reaches deep.
 
most midranges suffer at 250 Hz.

Midwoofer combines "woofer" and "midrange" not the tweeter.

Typically cover 50-2500 in a ported box with a 1" tweeter covering 2500-18 000.

You don't need a sub if you choose the right woofer.

Unless you want more than 120 dB OR much below 30-40 Hz.

Both are dumb in a car.

High SPL = no hearing.

Low frequencies = rattling everything.
 
matt5112 said:
most midranges suffer at 250 Hz.

Midwoofer combines "woofer" and "midrange" not the tweeter.

Typically cover 50-2500 in a ported box with a 1" tweeter covering 2500-18 000.

You don't need a sub if you choose the right woofer.

Unless you want more than 120 dB OR much below 30-40 Hz.

Both are dumb in a car.

High SPL = no hearing.

Low frequencies = rattling everything.
Click to expand...


FYI, I've spent over 3 years trying to get "quality" from a two way. It's a nightmare. Car audio is a nightmare.
 


So it sounds like I've got multiple problems? What would you recommend doing? I was thinking of eventually replacing the OEM radio (module? what ever you want to call it). Would adding a sub fix anything or just add another speaker. Tweeters contributing to the problem at all? I'm an audio noob as you can see... Thanks again.
 
You can't do two way above 105 dB.

You need to step up the game and go three way.

But go subless.

Good woofer, good mid, good tweeter.

Lots of install effort, which as you've said you dont want due to flashiness.... but you have 18's now.... :p

Hippo Machine said:
So it sounds like I've got multiple problems? What would you recommend doing? I was thinking of eventually replacing the OEM radio (module? what ever you want to call it). Would adding a sub fix anything or just add another speaker. Tweeters contributing to the problem at all? I'm an audio noob as you can see... Thanks again.
Click to expand...

You said money is an issue.

Answer is simple: live with it till you can afford to have money to play with.
 
Hippo Machine said:
So it sounds like I've got multiple problems? What would you recommend doing? I was thinking of eventually replacing the OEM radio (module? what ever you want to call it). Would adding a sub fix anything or just add another speaker. Tweeters contributing to the problem at all? I'm an audio noob as you can see... Thanks again.
Click to expand...

I think your speakers are blown.
 


KeithGTP03 said:
Here are some stock tweeters...I'd stick with those if you're runnin stock equipment. You can tell if your rear are stock by looking up at the bottom of them from the trunk.
D6 98 99 00 01 02 03 GRAND PRIX SPEAKER / TWEETER | eBay

If the stock tweeters were unplugged, there is a good chance that the p/o changed the stock midrange to a coaxial speaker. You will want to check that and make sure. If there is an aftermarket speaker in there and you connect the tweeters, the impedance will drop and will blow your head unit in time.
Click to expand...

So if I replace my stock 5 1/4 speakers with say a eg: coaxial speaker, to just leave the stock tweeter unplugged??
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top