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Getting new subs want opinons.

"i overpowered mine by 300 true watts for 16 months n never had a problem best subs ive ever owned"

And if the power ratings on any speaker really meant anything this would matter.

"he design in the middle is funtional so little distortion"
The dust cap!? Or did you mean the voice coil and magnet, most of those are functional :) As far as the dustcap yea, its functional it keeps dust out.

"they have rubber surround not foam"
I have woofers going as far back as the 60s with butyl rubber surrounds, not a big deal. And as far as stiched and not glued. I've glued on many a surround that I dare you to try and pull off the cone. you wont be able too.

A friend of mine has a pair of alpine subs, the surrounds came off one day when it was really cold out, So i reglued them. Its been 8 years and their still on there :)

If cheap companies used real glue they wouldn't be having problems and having to come up with gimmicks IMO.
 


realdiehl said:
MTX, Hertz, Diamond Audio, RE

:)
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CTKGP09 said:
KICKER no question about it...they have rubber surround not foam, they r double stitched not glued, the design in the middle is funtional so little distortion, and they r incredibly hard to blow, i overpowered mine by 300 true watts for 16 months n never had a problem best subs ive ever owned
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Come on guys... step away from the store brands and step up to some real subs.:th_thumbsup-wink:

MrTube said:
"i overpowered mine by 300 true watts for 16 months n never had a problem best subs ive ever owned"

And if the power ratings on any speaker really meant anything this would matter.

"he design in the middle is funtional so little distortion"
The dust cap!? Or did you mean the voice coil and magnet, most of those are functional :) As far as the dustcap yea, its functional it keeps dust out.

"they have rubber surround not foam"
I have woofers going as far back as the 60s with butyl rubber surrounds, not a big deal. And as far as stiched and not glued. I've glued on many a surround that I dare you to try and pull off the cone. you wont be able too.

A friend of mine has a pair of alpine subs, the surrounds came off one day when it was really cold out, So i reglued them. Its been 8 years and their still on there :)

If cheap companies used real glue they wouldn't be having problems and having to come up with gimmicks IMO.
Click to expand...

Don't be so harsh, he has no idea what makes a good speaker and possibly how one even works. :p

If only I didn't work so much... Perhaps I'd actually complete that speaker "guide"

Epoxy works wonders. :)
 
Ok,

Again Matt, We all know you don't work.

I didn't intend for the response to be harsh, I'm sorry if i came across as such.


But, I still don't think you work ;).
 
DIYMA R12!! :D

Maybe some of this action?...

Parts-Express.com:Dayton RSS315HO-4 12" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm | subwoofer rss315h0-4 12" subwoofer dayton reference rs sub dayton loudspeaker reference-22008

There's more. Just giving ideas.


oh ya...heard good things about this one too...Come to think of it; it's kind of hard not to make a decent sub. It's the user that usually messes it up :(

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-404



Knowing Matt he's probably talking about pro drivers tho :)
 
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TurboTrav said:
matt have you ever owned any of the brands listed above if so what model year, size and how many watts did you put on each
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A) I'm just kidding.

B) I'm just kidding.

C) I'm still just kidding

D) Perhaps you guys should consider some of the ID brands since they have lower overhead for a similar/better quality product.

That is all.:th_thumbsup-wink:

realdiehl said:
Then what are "real" subs?
Click to expand...

This isn't so much about "real" or not but rather "can find online for cheap"

Fi Car Audio

AE Speakers

SoundSplinter

Mach5 Audio

Creative Sound Solutions

TC Sounds/Audiopulse (Dead, Used still floating around)

Probably missing some.

How are Hertz and RE store brands?
Click to expand...

Can you buy them direct from the manufacturer?

MrTube said:
Ok,

Again Matt, We all know you don't work.

I didn't intend for the response to be harsh, I'm sorry if i came across as such.


But, I still don't think you work ;).
Click to expand...

I guess 30 hours a week is called vacation now?
 
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30 a week? I've been doing 50....
whats with the bankers hours?

In fact, isnt 30 hours considered part time technically?
 
matt5112 said:
A) I'm just kidding.

B) I'm just kidding.

C) I'm still just kidding

D) Perhaps you guys should consider some of the ID brands since they have lower overhead for a similar/better quality product.

That is all.:th_thumbsup-wink:



This isn't so much about "real" or not but rather "can find online for cheap"

Fi Car Audio

AE Speakers

SoundSplinter

Mach5 Audio

Creative Sound Solutions

TC Sounds/Audiopulse (Dead, Used still floating around)

Probably missing some.
Click to expand...

AQ

DC (older stuff)

DD

Sundown
theres more i just can't think of them

and don't dis what you have never owned
 


I dont' think it's so much a "dis" towards the name brands. The problem is that there's typically a direct correlation between name brands and a poor knowledge base. When people come in and start name dropping do they realize how the Qts values relate? What about Le? There's more to subs than an associated name. Jewelry is purchased based on looks, appeal, and trend. Speakers aren't.

A lot of the "high end" products, i.e. CDT, are just rebranded speakers by vifa, scan, peerless, or others. They rebadge the speaker and mark it up 25-50% Even some of the older Orion and RF subs were just rebadged. You can still buy them today even, they're just under a different brand or sold by original manufacturer.
 
I800 : you mean Thiel-Small figures?

:)

as far as not "dissing" things you have not owned. I've owned enough speakers\amplifiers to dis almost every brand out there.

However, you don't have to own something to realize a HEAVY cone is a bad one. And a cone with decorations that do nothing but make it weigh more is BAD, for example the kickers with the big plastic rib thing on the cone.

Most don't realize "shiney" paper cones weigh MORE then a dull raw paper cone and perform worse because of it.

The lighter and more rigid the cone, the better. cosmetics do absolutely nothing. well, other then make 90% of people buy the stuff. but they have no effect on actual performance.

and as far as why weight is so important? if you can gain 3db on sensitivity you can use half the power yet get the same output. if you can gain 6dB "not difficult when you look at most mainstream car subs" you can use 1/4 the power and produce the same output.

why use 2000W when you can do the same with 500W with the proper drivers? From what i've seen the typical car sub has a sensitivity in the 80s. 85dB for example, if you have a speaker with a sensitivity of 98dB "Not horribly difficult with proper design" you will get the same output with 100W with the 98dB sensitivity sub as you would with 800 watts with the 85dB sub.
 
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MrTube said:
I800 : you mean Thiel-Small figures?

:)

as far as not "dissing" things you have not owned. I've owned enough speakers\amplifiers to dis almost every brand out there.

However, you don't have to own something to realize a HEAVY cone is a bad one. And a cone with decorations that do nothing but make it weigh more is BAD, for example the kickers with the big plastic rib thing on the cone.

Most don't realize "shiney" paper cones weigh MORE then a dull raw paper cone and perform worse because of it.

The lighter and more rigid the cone, the better. cosmetics do absolutely nothing. well, other then make 90% of people buy the stuff. but they have no effect on actual performance.

and as far as why weight is so important? if you can gain 3db on sensitivity you can use half the power yet get the same output. if you can gain 6dB "not difficult when you look at most mainstream car subs" you can use 1/4 the power and produce the same output.

why use 2000W when you can do the same with 500W with the proper drivers? From what i've seen the typical car sub has a sensitivity in the 80s. 85dB for example, if you have a speaker with a sensitivity of 98dB "Not horribly difficult with proper design" you will get the same output with 100W with the 98dB sensitivity sub as you would with 800 watts with the 85dB sub.
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Below about 40-50 Hz you start to require Xmax more than sensitivity to produce high sound levels.

As for the whole dissing thing... And you're going to tell me anything by any brand you've tried and thought worked well is good?

Good companies make bad products from time to time. :th_nervous:
 
"Good companies make bad products from time to time." Absolutely.

heres one, 5900ULTRA. I paid $520 for one.. and had $300 ATI cards raping it... :)

Not audio related, but same rule. Don't buy by brand, EVER. Buy by product.
 
MrTube said:
"Good companies make bad products from time to time." Absolutely.

heres one, 5900ULTRA. I paid $520 for one.. and had $300 ATI cards raping it... :)

Not audio related, but same rule. Don't buy by brand, EVER. Buy by product.
Click to expand...

We could talk cars too... but people defend those like their children. :th_thumbsup-wink:
 


I hate to be a jerk. Just because it sounds "good" doesn't mean it's duplicating the source. Although music should sound the way you want...accurate isn't always what it turns out to be.

I think SQ and SPL are terms that are used very loosely. My goals are to represent the recording as is with little coloration. Majority of subs will not come close to this because of the huge cabin gan. In that sense you must EQ or design according to a response curve. How many people have ever used T/s parameters when designing their box? Buying a speaker and throwing it in a random box isn't SPL or SQ. At least try to figure out what the branded company suggests and shoot for that.
 
Well ... we had a simple solution.

Some Fi's, in a manufacturer's rec. box.

But people decided to get complicated...

I800C0LLECT said:
I hate to be a jerk. Just because it sounds "good" doesn't mean it's duplicating the source. Although music should sound the way you want...accurate isn't always what it turns out to be.

I think SQ and SPL are terms that are used very loosely. My goals are to represent the recording as is with little coloration. Majority of subs will not come close to this because of the huge cabin gan. In that sense you must EQ or design according to a response curve. How many people have ever used T/s parameters when designing their box? Buying a speaker and throwing it in a random box isn't SPL or SQ. At least try to figure out what the branded company suggests and shoot for that.
Click to expand...

O RLY?

Flat sound is an arbitrary goal no one really wants.

I did that before I quickly slapped together a box for my 18. It'll move the box up and down with a 60 amp fuse in the line :)

Its more complicated than how you make it sound.

Each car has a different cabin gain "curve" and each different subwoofer position has a different cabin gain "curve" and each different listening position has a different cabin gain "curve"...

Kinda pointless to some extent trying to please everyone when the speakers are so damn close to everyone.

This is why... sealed subs generally result in a flat sound "curve" in cars and ported subs generally peak like mad.
 
I never said I wanted "flat" :)

I think that's pretty retarded. I'm just pointing out that a random sub w/random box doesn't equate to SQ or SPL. Box design, installation, and processing all have their caveats that any person can take to terrible extremes. I'm just tired of people thinking that just because a speaker moves it's amazing and slap a name to it like SQ or SPL.
 
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