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Getting new subs want opinons.

whiney

whiney

ROLLS ARE FOR BAKERS...
Well the little 10's are not cutting it for me any more. I want some more thump, I have been looking around. re, jl, orion, kicker???? I am almost leaning towards a jl 12w7. something in the $500 range, and will hit more than 136db. What do you guys figure? Thanks!
 


I've loved my Jl 12w6v2 for a few years now, I only have the jl 500/2 amp on it and on a radio shack meter it hit 127 so the W7 should definitely do it for you, just need the 1000 watt amp.
 
in my last ride i ran 2 12" concept ss dual voice coil subs with a d class 800watt concept amp and it hit hard.then i switched to a c class 1225watt and it was not as good as the d 800 so i switched back.i had it in a 93 lowered 2 door s-10 blazer and it sounded gret in there.my brother inlaw runs the same subs only 15 inch and 4 of them and a 3000watt amp in his suburban
 


whiney said:
I was hoping you were going to chime in, so you figure i can get a little sq outta that sub too? Is really better than the w7?
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Oh man... those subs... will tear your car APART. :th_thumbsup-wink:

Make sure you tune the box for SQ instead of SPL and you'll be good.

If you're REALLY concerned about them sounding good go for a pair of the BL's. They're the "SQL" drivers. Balance of both sound level and quality.

Fi is basically: forget all the bull**** you dont need, and put all that money in what you do need.

The drivers are built to order as well so you can get one that fits your need. In the USA too.

Prices include shipping IRRC.
 
I so need a new sub too.

Kent after hearing your i would love for a W6. I also been looking at some treo / DI subs. I got 900watts rms so power is plenty :)
 
If you want SQ, get some sound splinter subs.

Even Fi's Q line is great for sound quality.

Cheaper than a comparable JL as well.

It comes down to if you can power the BLT's. It seems they want around 2000 watts each.

Go for two 12" BL's.
 


Just my opinion On JL's is that they are good if you get a deal :D. I've had 3 12" sealed W3's that hit over 143 db in a small box (spent $400 including the cost of sealed and carpeted box), and now i got 2 13.5" w6's that hit over 142 db using two 4" areo ports (spent $500 for subs). I was more about SQ myself, but i also like the bump. Also, Matt does seem to find some good subs. :th_winking:
 
felonygtp said:
Not if he wants it to sound decent.

Isn't Acendant audio and Fi audio the same company. I cant remember for sure but a friend has a set of Havoc series AA subs that sound good.
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Audioque is a less expensive version of Digital Designs. Check their products out too
 
pizzi22 said:
Just my opinion On JL's is that they are good if you get a deal :D. I've had 3 12" sealed W3's that hit over 143 db in a small box (spent $400 including the cost of sealed and carpeted box), and now i got 2 13.5" w6's that hit over 142 db using two 4" areo ports (spent $500 for subs). I was more about SQ myself, but i also like the bump. Also, Matt does seem to find some good subs. :th_winking:
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Yeah you can get JL's for cheap.... if you go used.

You get can Fi's used for cheap too.

I just dont like buying subs used since you have no idea not "if" but, how the previous owner abused them.

Another reason to go Fi instead of JL is if you DO break it, re-cones are about a hundred bucks.

All you need to do that yourself is a crap load of clamps and some epoxy.

Not bad considering how much a new sub is or paying shipping to send a 40 lb sub to someone to have them repair it.

felonygtp said:
Not if he wants it to sound decent.

Isn't Acendant audio and Fi audio the same company. I cant remember for sure but a friend has a set of Havoc series AA subs that sound good.
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Ha yeah... AQ =/= SQ

Yeah, Acendant is Fi's retail store brand. Same ****, just so happens the Fi stuff is cheaper unless you can get a stupid deal on some AA's.
 
I've heard lots of good things about DD and Sound Splinter in terms of sound. When looknig at SPL...remember, to be that loud you must be controlled. Could you drive a pretty sloppy 200mph? Tune SPL subs correctly and most will sound pretty decent.
 


Cbierniat24 said:
Your subs are only as good as your amp. Make sure the RMS ratings complement each other.
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Not so...

In terms of "quality" in amps, they're all pretty much the same. There are a few things that matter such as heat dissipation, sustained RMS output and efficiency. Other than those, most amps are all sound the same.

Just get something with power and thats not overpriced (which ALL car audio is :))
 
Around 10 years ago me and a bunch of friends did blind tests with amplifiers.

none of it was car audio but im sure the same rules apply.. We had everything from highend 1950s tube amplifiers, to cheap 1970s solid state amplifiers, and highend modern amplifiers such as Bryston.

Everyone including my self could not tell a Bryston 4B from a cheap 1970s 12W receiver as long as the amplifiers were not clipped and could drive the load. we were usually wrong more then 70% of the time when guessing what amp was in use.

the one thing we did notice was, if you tried to drive too low of a resistance the amp either got hot, OR the bass was dead and flat sounding.

take it for what its worth.

tho personally, when it comes to speakers, i swear by sealed acoustic suspension. I've always hated the sound of every ported system i've heard to date. I was running, and plan to again soon, run a pair of A/D/S 312RS subs in a partitioned sealed enclosure made from 1" MDF. I think i had 1.5cu\ft per sub? don't remember. Was whatever they called for. Of course filled with fiberglass insulation.

thats my 2 cents
 
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