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Fuel rails

David99GTP

David99GTP

New member
Was wondering something before I try and crank it up. I feel stupid but I have had the car apart for over a month. I have forgotten what some things go to. Question one is how do I tell the two fuel lines apart? What line is the return line? What will happen if I have them switched?
Second Question is my coil packs. There is a ground wire that is bundled with the wires that plug into the coil packs. Where does that ground attach to? based on how long the wire is I figure either to the bolt holding the fuel rails down or there is a bolt hole near there on the block. Maybe I am missing the screw and it bolts into the hole grounding to the block? I want to make sure I am 100% correct because I have the MSD coil packs and I know they are evry sensitive to being correctly grounded. Thats the number one reason they fail.
Thanks in advance!
 


David99GTP said:
Question one is how do I tell the two fuel lines apart?
Click to expand...

I believe they are different sized lines.


David99GTP said:
What will happen if I have them switched?
Click to expand...

The engine will run backwards



David99GTP said:
Second Question is my coil packs. There is a ground wire that is bundled with the wires that plug into the coil packs. Where does that ground attach to? based on how long the wire is I figure either to the bolt holding the fuel rails down or there is a bolt hole near there on the block. Maybe I am missing the screw and it bolts into the hole grounding to the block? I want to make sure I am 100% correct because I have the MSD coil packs and I know they are evry sensitive to being correctly grounded. Thats the number one reason they fail.
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

I do believe that ground wire connects to one of the bolts that holds the coil bracket in place.
 
OK different size lines. is the larger one the supply:th_question1:

:th_biggrin2: Run backwards, well that will be cool at the track when I stage backwards :cool:

OK ground to the rail bracket. Thats what I expected. Just that threaded hole I noticed in the block confused me. Plus the ground connector looks like it goes on a bigger bolt than the fuel rail bracket bolt. :th_scratchhead:
I need to get my morning coffee:th_radioactive:, so I can think straight.
 
Well, After a trip to Pep Boys, Autozone, and NAPA nobody stocks a
T vacuum fitting :mad:
I hope I have the fuel lines and ground figured out. :th_scratchhead:
 


UR LOSN said:
thats why we are here!!!!!! post away
Click to expand...

OK still need help. I turned the key and it fired up, but I am having issues with leaks. I wonder if I am placing too much pressure on the return system? If I had the lines backwards would the car even start?:confused::confused:
 
are the leaks from where the lines go into the rail? the lines have 3 prongs...when they are fully on the rail..they will snap into place..and lock it to the rail. the big line is the feed...goes onto the bigger part of the rail.

if you had the lines on the wrong...it would be spraying out the second you prime the system.

is there a way you could take pics?
 
HPNX0116.jpg

The fitting to the left is where I am having leaks.
 
Hmm I remember reading some where there's o rings inside the fittings to seal them when there locked in pace. Some correct me if i'm wrong maybe when u re installed the lines one of the rings got nicked or dis lodged maybe its worth looking into
 


It seems to be leaking out the flare fitting end of the part. I was wondering if my FPR is bad creating too much pressure on that side? Just a thought I have no idea at this point. I have re-assembled that side 5 times and still get a leak.
I thought it was the O-ring but it is def coming out the flare
 
Have you tried teflon tape to seal the fitting or will teflone tape hold up to gas?? i dunno but its a thought. maybe the flare fitting is bad but still check both the o ring and the flare fitting
 
Directions say teflon tape wont hold up to gas. I have gas resistant thread sealant, but that wont do me any good on a flare fitting. Looks like I may have to get an answer from PRJ at this point. I took my time and followed the 23 page instruction book closely.
 
Well, email sent to Paul at PRJ for advice. I wonder if my FPR is bad creating too much pressure on that side of the FPR. I drove out of the drive to turn the car around and it created a new leak at the quick connect. I am picking one up at NAPA tomorrow. I figure it cant hurt being the original with 110K on it. All my issues are on that side before the FPR.
 
On a flare fitting it can be damaged if its over tightened causing a leak, and if its under tightened, then obvious a leak too.

They go together dry, and its not even a 1/4 when they mate to get them tight. If feels like its not even close to being tight, but it is.

If it does leak, then its either a bad fitting, or the line going to the flare fitting is bad or damaged.

You can use Teflon tape as a temp fix to see if that stops the leak, but i cannot say for sure if it will hold up to the fuel for long term use. I have used Teflon paste on my nitrous stuff, and it works well, but thats a totally different ball game.

But on your fuel lines, the bigger one is the feed, and the smaller one is the return. Kinda impossible to hook them up backwards on a stock set of rails.

There is a ground that bolts to the coil bracket. That handles the ground for the ICM (ignition control module).

If it is a damaged part, I am more than sure the maker will take care of you, after all...you paid for the quality of the part, and should receive what you pay for.

Holla if you need any help or more questions answered.

~F~
 


thanks!
well i bought an new FPR. Thought it couldnt hurt being the old had 110K on it. Expensive little bugger. I then disconnected the whole right side. i ran the flex line in a different location than the directions suggested. this eliminated any lateral pressure on the fitting. After everything was connected I then bolted the box holding the FPR back on the bracket VS doing it in the opposite order as directions recomended. i had a new leak on the front right side of the rail. I was patient and tightened it a little, restart the car, tighten a little more, then restarted the car. After a few restarts no leaks. Reved the rpms and let the car run for a few minutes, no leaks. drove around the block, no leaks. Drove to the parts store, no leaks. It appears to be aok. Gosh I hope so! I didnt sleep much stressing over the issue. Paul from PRJ called to make sure I had it fixed. Sooooo Looks like I am in business. now into the paint shop and to the exhaust shop and hopefully ready for the show.
 
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