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Fuel gauge

I have it ready to go. It has approx. 98k miles on it. worked fine when removed. Just let me know. You have a PM.
 


OHM out the sending unit.....it should read 40 OHM empty 240OHM full....as far as gauge wiring all there is is a PPL wire from the PCM (I can get you the connector and PIN # if you need it) that runs from the PCM to the fuel level sensor, and then the sensor grounds....If you need anymore help, let me know, I just fixed a few fuel gauges on friends GTPs not long ago...
 
i first had seen this scrolling through the sections. and saw ^you! thought it was me. and was like wtf? i don't remember posting in here. then was like OH! GUOOOOO!!!!
 
ok i know... old thread... but here is what my fuel gauge goes to when i completly fill it up to from Empty.

719716563_photobucket_38685_.jpg


i have a brandnew Fuel pump and Sending unit. so i dont think its that...

And when i fill ed up form Empty last night. i only got 10 gallons in. and it was completly full in the tank
 
Like I said, OHM out the sending unit, NEW doesnt mean 100% working properly. OHM it out to make sure the sending unit is getting the correct information to the gauge. Take the pump out, you will have the little arm that is what sends the information for the fuel level. You can do this one of two ways after this, whichever ends up easier for you, I have found if I am by myself the first method works out much better. Make sure the arm is all the way down. Get a DMM and hook the positive lead to where the purple wire plugs in the sending unit from the connectior, and the ground for the DMM to where the black wire with the white stripe goes into the sending unit from the plug (i think, could be the solid black one, if no reading or not a changing reading on this one, go to the other) then, set your DMM on the 2000 scale for OHMs, and move the arm, it should read 40 ohms with the arm all the way down, and as you go up, raise until the arms stops at 240. It should be a decently consistent reading. More the arm slow. If it fluctuates alot, or has big jumps, the sending unit is bad, if it doesn't read within those specifications, then it is a bad sending unit also. Hope this makes sense, if not then let me know and ill see if i can clarify more. If this test checks out, let me know and well move to the next step of troubleshooting this.
 


without taking the pump out... could i go fill it up and see what it reads? so i dont gotta take it out. cuz that sending unti was the biggest ***** ever to get down into the tank and seal with the O ring
 
In easier terms, no lol...that wont check for inconsistencies, and wont check all the way from empty to full..i tried it before in tank, and it read ok at full but when we pulled it, it was bad
 


There is a possibility, not a big one, but there is one. If you want, try clusters first since that will save you pulling the pump. Also, if that checks out, Check the sending unit ground, if that checks out then the way I go after that is, take the connector off to the sending unit, the square one with the ppl, black, black/white stripe and grey wire, disconnect the battery, use a power convertor, or some other way to put power through the ppl wire from the plug, then go to the PCM, disconnect the clear PCM connector, find PIN 69, it will be the ppl wire, and test light it to make sure there is voltage there. That is the whole circuit. It goes from sending unit, ground in the PCM ground group, and the ppl wire goes to the PCM as the fuel level input, which is then send by the PCM to the gauge cluster.
 


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