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Front Wheel bearing questions.

mdkoh

New member
Hi All,

I have a bad front wheel bearing hub which is making noise and has excessive excessive play. I am buying a Moog bearing but wanted to know a few things that I read on other sites. A few sites recommended replacing the axle nut and hub securing bolts due to fatigue. The statement was more like they dont re-torque very well. Do they need to be replaced or is this more for peace of mind? Also the same question for the axle nut.

When cleaning up the area where the new bearing will go what type of grease is recommended to coat the mating surfaces and the drive shaft spines? I was going to use Mobil one synthetic, would something else be more appropriate?

Also recommended torque specifications. I have read a few posts here and they seem pretty straight forward but I have heard 2 different specs for the drive shaft nut. Is it 118 ft lbs or 150 ft lbs? The securing nuts should be 115 - 118 ft lbs.

Thanks for the forth coming information.
 


re use all bolts and axle nut, tq the axle nut to 118. wire brush the knuckle if its rusty or cruddy. ive never put anything there, grease or what have you. back on dry.
 
I guess I should have mentioned what kind of car. I do that way to often, 2006 Gran Prix 3.8 liter. Love this car and it has 141K on it now. Sad part is I was forced to use it for work and now its getting a lot of hard miles on it. I just ordered the wheel bearing tonight and expect it by Tuesday. I hope the worn one holds together until then.

Many thanks for the numbers and help.
 
I always use axle grease, it's the yellowish clear kind not the red stuff that I use.

Soak the bolts and axle nut if it's rusty.
 
Timken or SKF wheel bearings are the way to go if you want quality, an hour a side and your done for good.
 


Timken or SKF wheel bearings are the way to go if you want quality, an hour a side and your done for good.

Agreed, I only use timkins. Moog makes good suspension parts but timken bearings have never given me an issue.
 
I installed the front right bearing last night. The car is quieter and I have to say I did not think it would make the difference that it did. I still have some road noise but I think its a tire issue not a bearing issue. The front right bearing was bad, man there was so much free play as to be scary. Thanks for all who shared their expertise, and yes it was supper easy to dismantle and reassemble.
 
Agree. Timken or SKF. I have changed all 4 wheel bearing hubs (fronts @100,000 miles and rears @130,000) with Timkins and the bearings are still perfect today @ 200,000 miles on the car. I recently did the front wheel bearing hubs on my Chrysler 300 @ 130,000 miles and used SKF. I would not use any cheap wheel bearings unless you want to keep replacing wheel bearing hubs often.....
 


You can also use Napa bearings. So far as a tech both economy lone and premium have held up great and warranty can be had nation wide just save reciept. I like to tell people to write nut torque on reciept. Then they tend to ask and believe you actually torqued them. Just a professional opinion. Oh and SKF makes the ZR1 Corvette had bearing so good brand too, as stated That are premium brand. Moog has stepped up and quit throwing anything in box. Do be surprised to see SKF, Bower/BCA or Timken bearing IN hub.
 
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