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Front right axel

B

buschegt

New member
So got some work done to the car and noticed the axel is leaking alittle bit. I looked on rockauto and ac delco is roughly about 200 for I think the set and looked on zzp for stage 1 for 85 non he but reviews said they were trash. Suggestions? Also looking at doing the bushing on that same side.
 


Just so you know the right AC delco axle on rock auto is not available. I've tried to order it several times and it will not go through. It will come back as no longer available part. Napa is probably the best place to get an aftermarket axle. They are just cardone reboxed though. Do not use autozone axles, they suck and don't fit correctly
 
Depends, if you buy reman most are either CST or A1/Cardone. Bad thing is some are only getting rebuilt CVs but reason is so many come in with no joint issues and they get torn down ,inspected, cleaned, regreased and new boots. But honestly last time I bought a boot kit, it was nearly $30, a NEW axle like one that came in trunk of my new 04 GPGT2 is $79, lifetime guarantee most places. No brainier, link head abused old ones or brand new. Some reman grades specify all new joints. This is where due diligence is in order. Also investing in small trianglar file and doing some manicuring of the ends of splines can make even best new axles slide right in with minimal effort. Also don't forget a bottle of silver anti seize for alxe threads, splines and even lug nuts. Make things tighten properly. And axle nuts, snug in air, drop car till tire touches ground and torque to 100lb ft, I like to do this, set car down on wheel, use breaker bar to back off just 1/8 to 1/4 turn ,one at time and then reseat/torque lug nuts. The first time around with anti seize. Just gets it all smeared around. BUT don't slather, brush it into threads and splines. It also works well inside of spindle when replacing hubs. The greenish gold is copper based and only used on high heat bolts like exhaust or EGR.
 
I'll never put anti seize on lug studs, that is the last thing in the world I want coming loose. Good clean threads with a proper torque will never come loose.

****ing pain in the ass when you have to do rotates or brake work in a shop and some tard went all crazy with anti seize on the rotor hats and lug nuts. The stuff never comes off your hands, gets gloves all slimey and god forbid it gets on your pants or shirt and you enter the customers vehicle and get it on the interior.
 


I'm currently dealing with a reman axle on my car. Lasted mebbe a year before slack. And when they "remanned" it they over machined the groove for the lock ring so now its refusing to come out. Meanwhile my 359000 mile passenger axle is just as tight as it ever was. Get a boot kit
 
Fivefingerdeathpunch said:
I'll never put anti seize on lug studs, that is the last thing in the world I want coming loose. Good clean threads with a proper torque will never come loose.

****ing pain in the ass when you have to do rotates or brake work in a shop and some tard went all crazy with anti seize on the rotor hats and lug nuts. The stuff never comes off your hands, gets gloves all slimey and god forbid it gets on your pants or shirt and you enter the customers vehicle and get it on the interior.
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100% correct. Never put anti seize on lug nuts. When you get it on your pants of course the next car you pull in is a new Lexus.
 
From what I've been told the NAPA reman axles use OEM parts to rebuild them. NEW Napa axles will work but they're not as good as the OEM rebuilt ones.

FWIW I had new Napa axles on mine and just last year had to replace both of them. They were a good 50k miles old so that wasn't too bad.
 
Fivefingerdeathpunch said:
I'll never put anti seize on lug studs, that is the last thing in the world I want coming loose. Good clean threads with a proper torque will never come loose.

****ing pain in the ass when you have to do rotates or brake work in a shop and some tard went all crazy with anti seize on the rotor hats and lug nuts. The stuff never comes off your hands, gets gloves all slimey and god forbid it gets on your pants or shirt and you enter the customers vehicle and get it on the interior.
Click to expand...

First of all anti seize WILL NOT CAUSE A LUG NUT TO LOOSEN. The only thing that allows lug nuts too loosen is loose flakey corrosion or rust buildup under wheel not allowing it to sit properly and maintain proper fit or stretched or damaged studs. See it's not the wheel to hub face/rotor surface that keeps wheel tight it is bolt/stud stretch/tension. Just like cylinder heads retention is critical to proper stretch of the wheel stud and not having any debris under wheel.
Now if your theory is true than head studs, connecting rodnuts/bolts etc should be torqued DRY and ARP didn't spend millions developing the moly lube for thier fasteners. Nickel based(silver) anti seize does NOT affect or change wheel stud torque AND promotes a smoother, more accurate torque. Don't believe me take certification tests for heavy trucks. Heck Dayton duals with inner and outer studs are pretty much on any semi and if you don't anti seize them you gotta have blind holder to get inner wheel lug and outer wheel nut apart.
When installing new studs you should lubricated the threads I'd using nuts pull them in. But tapered puller washers allow less thread stress.
I have been in auto repair for over 30 yrs and NEVER had wheels come loose from silver anti seize use. The only reason a nut or bolt comes loose is from vibration(ie use some sort of locking washers) or under torque or fastener failure. The last of those us brought on more by over stretch and the stud/nut yielding under load. Also proper torque is critical. Ever have to fight a lug nut on or off? Just think of how many cars have rusted lugs, and fail to get properly tensioned lug nut/studs.
 


Duralast gold cv axels are pretty good, have a set on my gtp for a couple years now with no problem (knocking on wood as Im sayin that)��.
 


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