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Front/rear brake bias adjustment?

industrialfish

New member
In the process of moar low, so I also bought shiny rotors and pads since it'll all be apart anyway.

Notice the rear brake pads look damn near new as far as thickness goes. They are 30k old minimum, probably older.

Do the rear pads tend to last for ever, or am I not getting **** for use out of them for some reason?? Parking brake works though. Also I bled all 4 corners about 5k miles ago, stealership replaced one rear brake caliper soon after that (unrelated). At first I thought the caliper they replaced wasn't working, but the other side looks identical. At 96k and the rotors are probably original given how ****ing hard they were to take off.

Any thoughts? Dealer invoice just says they replaced the caliper + fluid. But the parking brake was a LOT stiffer, so would they have replaced the pads too?
 
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I'm at about 100k and the rear pads and rotors are still meaty. I just replaced both rear calipers, not that that is relevant.

Based on nothing other than what I've observed of wear, I'd say it is more like a 90 / 10 bias.
 
all 4 corners wear at the same rate on my car, and i got f bodys up front.

my last truck, a 03 gmc the backs wore out before the fronts every time. theres more back brake then you think these days in newer cars.
 
all 4 corners wear at the same rate on my car, and i got f bodys up front.

my last truck, a 03 gmc the backs wore out before the fronts every time. theres more back brake then you think these days in newer cars.

Isn't that because there is more pistons up front than in back? The same amount of volume through the lines moves the fronts less further than the rear.
 
front and back brakes are separate. one has nothing to do with the other.


my 03 gmc had 4 wheel disk, dual calipers front and back, used the same pads front and back too. calipers were identical. back brakes new from the factory wore out before the fronts, and we all know how good factory pads are, you'll never have a set last longer.
 


there are two inline proportioning valves on the two rear circuit lines, both located near the rar of the car (near trailing arms)

you can replace these with adjustables to increase the pressure. factory settings are low enough to make sure the rear tires will not lockup in the rain with no weight in the back....thats it...no more, so if you drive with subs in the trunk, you can add pressure. but you still do not want them to lockup under panic braking.

it just sucks to get both valves adjusted the same.... never checked caliper pressures of caddy's and the like so id guess there's a chance the oem inline valves might be set higher on these models than the W cars...
 
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