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Found a random taped off vacuum line, help please?

JayHerlth said:
Well, the fan blasts and only minimal amount of air will come out of the vents. AC 'works' it's cooler than the hot air, but not ice cold air. Boost gauge doesn't work still, I'm assuming it's from that T connector missing. I'll go to the auto parts store on Thursday or Friday when I have time to get some parts to make shift a T connector. If I fail, oh well. I'm still waiting on the connector to show up in the mail :D
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look for the other side of the taped off line. if need be you can slide a new rubber vac line over the hard line and make the connection. your boost wont show cause the map sensor is not seeing any vacuum. car must be running like crap with a leak like that.

follow the diagram posted up there and make sure its all plumbed back right. should be a night and day difference.

if you get the taped off line reconnected to its other 1/2 your a/c and heat will work like it should. like i said earlier, look under the fuse box on the pass side wheel well for the other side, its a hard line like up top where its capped.
 


Scottydoggs said:
look for the other side of the taped off line. if need be you can slide a new rubber vac line over the hard line and make the connection. your boost wont show cause the map sensor is not seeing any vacuum. car must be running like crap with a leak like that.

follow the diagram posted up there and make sure its all plumbed back right. should be a night and day difference.

if you get the taped off line reconnected to its other 1/2 your a/c and heat will work like it should. like i said earlier, look under the fuse box on the pass side wheel well for the other side, its a hard line like up top where its capped.
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Yeah, idles at 1.1k and current errors are P0101 P0102 P0121.
AC still doesn't BLAST but is spitting out enough air to cool things down inside. I'll disconnect the line and see how things change. But right now, I found a hose to connect the lines. Need to find time to go to the store and buy a t connector and line to rig it up.

Living the life of a 17 year old who works min wage hours after school and weekends, while borrowing parents' cars.
 
been there, minus the driving the parents car, they never let me use their cars, if i wanted to drive a car i had to buy it myself, insure it myself, pay to fix it, gas it up, every damn thing, zero help at all. you want it,,,,you will pay for it yourself i was told, and they meant it. trust me lol

i used a lot of junk yard parts as a kid. you do what you gotta do.


my father pretty much sold me his 77 gmc, ( i was still paying it off) the clutch went bad and it was dead in the water, so i pulled the engine out and changed the clutch. i know trans out seems like the way to go but it was a 4 speed manual and it was heavy and i had no trans jack.

my dad pulls in the drive way as the engine is just coming up and over the rad support, all he does is look at wtf is going on, then says that had best run again lol and walked away. next day it was on the road again.

luck for me this was not my first engine pull at home, so they had seen one come out one go back in and it drive away a few times.
 
I've got a gravel driveway and no tools to lift one out. If I did, I would be doing so much more to this car (given if I had the money.) anywho, I still have to jack it up and replace two rear struts in a gravel driveway. Then figure out why all of my windows are shot. Found a missing cable to the master switch on drivers door. Junk yard it will have to be for that. Or wire my own.
 
not sure if the fatter vac line will fit the small T tho. i just spit on the tub and pushed in on. its still there. works like a charm.


my vac line repairs. to the left under the snout is the hard line to the map sensor, i kept the hard line there, and use a 1 inch length of vac line from the hard line to the t.
limjob11.jpg
 


Scottydoggs said:
not sure if the fatter vac line will fit the small T tho. i just spit on the tub and pushed in on. its still there. works like a charm.


my vac line repairs. to the left under the snout is the hard line to the map sensor, i kept the hard line there, and use a 1 inch length of vac line from the hard line to the t.
limjob11.jpg
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usedenes.jpg


As of right now, she runs but occasionally stalls or has rough up and down idles. Poor thing.
 
gravel driveways do have there advantages, you can make a mess and it dont matter. leak fluids who cares, but rocks in the knees do suck, and its easy to loose nuts and bolts.


i live in a apt. so i have no where to work at all. so i do it at a friends house. a brake job on his truck. in the gravel d/w.

pinosbrakejob1.jpg


then this happened, hes now the oil stain police lol i was not allowed to park in his driveway for a good 2 months, till he f ed it up enough him self. ( my car leaks oil) so i now have a square of ply wood just for me to put under my car when i come over.

pinosdriveway4.jpg
 
Real quick, since you're actively replying and this is a Grand Prix forums. What does that little button on the shift stick do? Have found no info and am too scared to drive around and press it. Lol
 
JayHerlth said:
usedenes.jpg


As of right now, she runs but occasionally stalls or has rough up and down idles. Poor thing.
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all you need is like 6 inches of new vac line and a t. and that will be all better, talking 3 bucks in parts tops, if you find the cheap good t's at advance auto they are 2 bucks for a 2 pack. put 3, inch and 1/2 long pieces of vac line on the new T then push the hard lines into the new vac line on the T. then the last one on the nipple on the lim.

if you can cap that nipple off i bet it runs a lot better till you get the T and some line.
 
JayHerlth said:
Real quick, since you're actively replying and this is a Grand Prix forums. What does that little button on the shift stick do? Have found no info and am too scared to drive around and press it. Lol
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push it, its fun lol


its the performance shift button, push the button and a light on the dash or dic will say "perf shift" when its lit up its in that mode, this will make the shifts points a bit further up the rpm range, and make it shift better, faster/firmer.
 


I like that response "push it, its fun lol"
I will be sure to do that when I replace the rear struts and fix that t connector. Was amazed it ran me ten miles with that missing... At least I'm now aware that it's a reliable engine :)
 
these engines can take a good beating, just keep up with your oil changes and regular maintenance. not that im saying to beat the tar out of it all day long lol quite reliable most of the time. like any car tho, its got it common issues that pop up.
 
Like a missing vacuum connector.. Anywho, I'm waiting till Friday for my struts to come in the mail. Tomorrow afternoon I'll definitely be heading up to the local store and finding some fittings and tubing to make one of my own. Get an oil filter, and flush the coolant system. I've got fuel system cleaner just for general purposes, need to wait till it's titled and on the road first before I can actually fill it up 100% in order to do that. Now my biggest issue will be getting the windows to work... Do you believe that a few wires disconnected from the master switch will affect all windows including sun roof? Fuse is absolutely fine, just don't know if I really need to go through the trouble of troubleshooting every last window and motor.
 
take the door skins off the inside of the doors, with a test light see if the plug to the motors getting power when the switch is worked.

a bad master switch will make the windows not work. mine the child lock part took a dump and only the master switch could work any of the windows.
 
I just need a single window working from drivers seat. We have a family friend that will inspect it and pass it as long as we have a working window, simply because of safety issues. Door gets stuck somehow (don't ask me how I could get locked into the car) but if I need a way out, or whatever the reason be. I'll need to hit up some junkyards. Hoping they have a grand prix. If anything I'm just going to get some auto wire at the local shop, and have fun re-making the torn part of the harness...

I haven't seen any door harnesses being sold online. All I can imagine being able to do is ripping one out of an old wrecked grand prix at a yard or something.
 


you can patch broken wires easy. get yourself a soldering iron, shrink tubes and solder. done deal.

always strip the ends back till you hit clean shinny copper, then solder.
 
Had to do that once or twice with some RC planes/helicopters.. When you wreck it, some wire likes to decide to tear.
My only concern would be plugging it into the actual harness. I really don't want to go at it with 10lbs of electrical tape holding it all into the socket.

Any tips or ideas as to how I could approach that?
 
you dont have to replace it all, leave 4 inches off the plus ends, solder to that, or you push the pins out, and then you need to find new pins to crimp and solder on the wires to fit the plugs.

leaving a pig tail is easier.

if you do find a broken wire chances are it will be inside the rubber accordion part door to body.

then theres always the chance all 4 window motors took a crap. if you have some wire you can run a wire from the battery to the motor, you'll need a ground too, then touch the terminals on the motor. it should work if it works. switching the wires around should make it move the opposite way.

if they work with direct power you have a switch or wire problem.
 
Well, my issue is that the plug is actually missing (for front two windows) the rear window switch plug is in place. I'm not too sure why exactly it was ripped out?.. My issues with buying used, there's some weird shiz you will find that you just will never find the answer to..
 
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