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first turbo build questions

If i get heads I'm def going to get the mls gaskets and ARP Head studs, BUT wuts the big deal with the thicker gaskets to bring compression down? Would it be that big of deal or would you jus go with stock size gaskets?
 


With lower compression you can theoretically turn up the boost farther without detonation so the thicker MLS gaskets can help with this a little. Whether there is enough of a change to make a difference I'm not sure, but that's why they sell the thicker ones. Perhaps someone else here has done a comparison and can say if it helped or not.
 
I also have a set of yella terra 1.6 rollers laying around... would these be a good addition with stage 3 heads and st4 cam? Figuring a yes on that one but thought I would ask others opinion, not sure how they work with turbo apps
 


DaytonaGTP500 said:
I also have a set of yella terra 1.6 rollers laying around... would these be a good addition with stage 3 heads and st4 cam? Figuring a yes on that one but thought I would ask others opinion, not sure how they work with turbo apps
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You answered your own question. ;)
 
if you have the rockers then ya throw them in, some argue that stock rockers have better lift but personally i like having the rollers. Ported heads are good no matter what your setup, hell ported heads on a stock setup are nice. the better the flow to the turbo the quicker the spool time can be.
 
That's exactly why I asked. I herd some argue that stocks are better so I wasn't sure if anyone else had more info or if it was any diff running them with the s/c as to the turbo.
And I'm def going with heads (stage 3 or cnc idk yet) I'm jus trying to figure out what gasket size I want for the mls gasket, wether I go stock size or a little thicker....but idk what happens to the engine with thicker gaskets (lose more bottom end or wut idk) I've figured out I can add more boost obviously, but what's sacrificed? That's been my main question lol
 
You'll make more power with stock rockers over the YT's you have. If you want to make less power while spending more money, that's your call.

Also, not sure why you decided to use MLS head gaskets, but I would recommend that you stick with stock and use ARP head studs.
 
ok so with the goals being around 450-500whp with me having no intentions of getting rid of it(me and dads project car and he jus passed away this thing is my pride..) and at some point in the future being pushed over 500whp wouldnt the stock head gaskets be pointless? I know that they had problems with mls gaskets sealing and thats why they recomend the copper spray, but is there another option because all that im aware of is the stck gaskets and the mls and theres no way in hell ima change headgaskets on this all the time lol....
 


DaytonaGTP500 said:
ok so with the goals being around 450-500whp with me having no intentions of getting rid of it(me and dads project car and he jus passed away this thing is my pride..) and at some point in the future being pushed over 500whp wouldnt the stock head gaskets be pointless? I know that they had problems with mls gaskets sealing and thats why they recomend the copper spray, but is there another option because all that im aware of is the stck gaskets and the mls and theres no way in hell ima change headgaskets on this all the time lol....
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My buddy made 450 at the wheels on 19 psi while running out of fuel. He's running stock head gaskets and studs.

From what I've seen, stock head gaskets will hold a lot. MLS will hold slightly more, but they are hit and miss with sealing. With your setup, I would stick with stock. Keep it from detonating, and you will be fine. Knock is usually what blows out a head gasket, not power.

If you are looking to make beyond 550whp, I would check into getting the block or heads o-ringed.

There is another gasket that can be used as well, but to my knowledge they are untested. I'm hoping to give them a try this spring though.
 
Now this may make me sound dumb.....but wut do you mean by o-ringed?
Also just curious but do you think getting the stock gaskets from GM would be better or do you think the fel-pro ones would be better?(still with ARP bolts)
 
Felpro ones will be fine, in fact the make perma seal ones that are very sticky and awesome.

O ringed I believe means that you have grooves machined into the block and heads so they can have an oring gasket, similar to the valve covers.
 
Any clue where to find those perma seal ones? I've looked around on the internet a lil with no luck and also called Oriellys and all they have is the stock OE gasket
 


Ya those might be it, they are super sticky when you put them on. I haven't used them, but they were recommended by someone I highly trust.
 
Here is what an o-ringed block looks like. It's pricy, but probably worth it if you are making crazy power.

6907150100_large.jpg
 
Nice!! Idk y buy I've never seen/herd of that lol

One more question for y'all, what throttle bodies r u guys running with the l26 intake on the l67 motor because zzp said I'll have to do some machining to make my stock throttle body work.....so do you just go with a l36 throttle body or wuts gunna work best?
 
You'll need to get a TB adapter to run any TB. The L26 intake has 4 studs to attach a TB, but the L36/L67 TB use a 3-bolt pattern. Most guys just use a stock L67 or N*.
 
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