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First Modification

^^^^^^^^lol, well yeah, but we want more timing. and back to the 4hp, if u look hard enough their has already been a dyno grph posted (maybe not this site) on a nice gain of either 15 hp or 18hp. so yeah......dyno's prove a point, yes some are diff. and diff. situations. and lastly heck yeah i'd love to have togs, but i can't afford so i didn't get it. i doubt their is much of a measurable difference between header brands. we cooould talk this to death. point is my pace crappers are 10 times better than any stock setup!
 


Yea hate the whole ca thing but cant move till wifes out of school so im stuck here cant wait to move to OR my truck will be cheap to register and No smog crap Plus ill be living in the hills and wont have to deal with the ghetto trash people here

It might be worth it just to um find a "friendly" smog shop and go with some cheapys as far as headers go
 
Deimos said:
paces rusters they don't even get you 4 hp what's the point?
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where did this guy come from? WTF

as for the original question do not buy a cold air intake setup.. waste of money. i agree with others and save it for something worth doing.. like HEADERS

i have pacesetters and have absolutely no problems with them.. no leaks.. no fitment issues
 
Deimos said:
paces rusters they don't even get you 4 hp what's the point?
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i picked up more than half a second with my ****ty pacesetters.... besides the tune it has been my best mod so far. that and it opens the door for more air flow and further mods down the road.

pacesetters flow just like any other header. to call them ****ty because they dont seal from the factory okay (its an easy fix tho....) but to say there ****ty because they only pick up 4hp and are worthless.... ha
 
Deimos said:
Aww you need horsepower sheets now??? What is it with people on the net and dyno sheets? You really think your gonna gain 20 hp with a header swap if you are. You are very mistaken.
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Yes, actually headers are dyno proven 18 FWHP. IIRC, that is on a SSEi Bonne with no other mods. So, you are mistaken. Not been around the 3800 scene very long? You need to do some reading. As for the horsepower sheets...you said you only gained 4 horsepower from Pacesetter headers...so I am asking you where you got that information from? Your head? Figured.
 
^^^^^^hey blue, thats what i was referring to. (glad omeone else paid attention...lol). i did have a ****ty pace setter on an old datsun truck one time but that was literally 22 yrs ago. maybe he had some sbc pace setters, that i could understand. ^and "wicked" sounds like u and me are in the same boat.
 


scootcoupe91 said:
Ok, I know there is a great sticky about modifications to do to the GTP but it doesn't say how much of a HP gain one can expect. I have about $180 to drop on one mod and I wanted to see what the opinions are out there.

PLOG -$150
Wizaired -$150
Ported m90 - $100
Down Pipe - haven't found a good price yet and I want a CAT, hated the smell of the
gutted cat on the Camaro and I am not going there again

I just emailed the guy with the m90 to ask about who did the porting and if it is just the case. I have also heard bad things about fuel economy dropping with the installation of a FWI and/or CAI and I would like to keep my fuel economy the same. At this point I am leaning towards the PLOG but I wanted to hear from those who have experience with these modifications.
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Where did you find a Wizaired CAI for $150? I thought $200 was the cheapest.
 
hey talking about mods, i'm about to start modding my gtp too. I got a colder tstat but i got a 160 one, i see most people have a 180. Should I change it or keep the 160? I was planning also to take the car to the exhaust shop and take the u-bend out, but as I see, I might as well ask them to do the whole downpipe too. I'd like to get a set of headers, but the cost of shipping them here would be prohibitive, i think the next mod will be to have also the guys at the exhaust shop to do build me a PLOG. I gues after I've got those two i'll put in a reprogramed PCM.

So what do you guys think?

1. 160 Tstat
2. ubend delete / downpipe (keeping cat due to emissions restrictions)
3. PLOG
4. PCM

How much more HP should I expect to get with these mods? Should I also get colder spark plugs at this time also?
 
scootcoupe91 said:
If I do put on a breathing mod such as the FWI, which I am entertaining, would the supercharger make a difference. If I get the supercharger for $100, that leaves me about $80 to drop on the FWI, which I feel is more than enough. Also, do you have a preference of a scanner than can look for knock over another, I'd like for this car to last some time so I would definitely like to keep knock at or close to 0*
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i would do exhaust before intake/supercharger. no point in giving your engine extra air if it has no way of getting rid of it....
 


I found the Wizaired CAI used from a local fellow. I don't know whether it will quell the argument or inflame it but I found this dyno chart quite some time ago as I was wondering what these cars put out stock. The car has nothing but a pair of TOG headers on them.
Original_OtherGuysDynosheetheaders.jpg

But Juanmiguel, I remember reading elsewhere on this site that it is not exactly worthless to drop to a 160* thermostat but you won't get the gains that you are expecting unless you tell the pcm to change the temperature at which it turns on the radiator fans. So I would say to avoid the thermostat until you get a tune from overkill or dhp with the lowered fan turn on temperature.
 
Oh and can someone verify this for me, if you look at the dyno on the ZZP site for the powerlog they claim that all they did was put a PLOG on the car and gained 10whp. But if you look at the dyno the car was orignally putting down 213whp, which is a little high for these cars stock. Also if you take a closer look you can see on the TOG dyno that torque peaks at 3200rpm and falls down from there where as the ZZP dyno shows the engine peaking at close to 4300rpm, 1000rpm over stock. In my opinion I don't believe that the car that ZZP dyno'ed was stock and that one can not expect a gain of 10whp from the PLOG without other modifications.
plog2.jpg
 
^^See how much it helps to READ. Thanks guy.

As for the T-Stat...a 160* is way overkill...unless you got a piss ton of mods. As for the U-Bend Delete...just buy a 3" Shorty from ZZP and take it to your exhaust shop and have someone weld a 3" pipe to it and run it down to the U-Bend delete too.
 
One before the last seems most accurate. And that list is pretty sad. 3.25" with a downpipe? Get real.
 


I just got back from the exhaust shop and got the ubend deleted. I just want to share the image of the pipe they put in instead. The guy charged like 40 dollars for the job he said he would charge another 40 for the down pipe. Of course the ZZ downpipes are best, but the price for shipping them here is too much. I also just added the 180 tstat.

Now I'd like your opinion if I should build a CAI next or have the downpiape replaced.

many thanks!

ubend_deleted.jpg
 
You can get a 4" to 3.5" coupler and run it to the fender and bolt a big cone filter to it for what...less than $50? If the DP is the same price...then there you go...100 bucks man.
 
bluegtp91 said:
You can get a 4" to 3.5" coupler and run it to the fender and bolt a big cone filter to it for what...less than $50? If the DP is the same price...then there you go...100 bucks man.
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Regarding the CAI, mine is a 98 GTP and I was looking at the thread on how to build one and I was thinking of removing the air box, but leaving the hose that runs from the throtle body to the box there and just add a 90° elbow with a 3" tube to the fender and set the 4" cone filter in there.

It seems to be the easiest way to me and would take less parts to do. The only problem I see is that to do this, I would have to tilt the hose a bit lower and this one already passes near the front manifold. It already gets hot enough as it is.
 
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