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Finalized LIM gasket plans

Impala131 said:
I should have been more detailed. 1 bolt for the idler, 2 bolts for the P/S pump, 4 bolts for the WP pulley, and 8 bolts for the water pump itself. Scrape off old gasket and put new one on. Thread sealant on WP bolts. Easy peace of mind.
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this guy dont need any extra bolts removed at this time, if you cant tell yet lol that pump can sit till it leaks. if its next week so be it. let him learn one job at a time.
 


ScottyDoggs said:
this guy dont need any extra bolts removed at this time, if you cant tell yet lol that pump can sit till it leaks. if its next week so be it. let him learn one job at a time.
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I will defer to your wisdom Scotty.... just trying to save the guy some time in the long run since he's already opening the cooling system.
 
seems like a nice enough guy, but clearly hes new to wrenching. so the dont fix whats not broken rule comes into play for him.

just imagine the fight he'd have getting the p/s pump back on.......one thing at a time.
 
Yeah, it's hard enough checking the damn P/S fluid. Removing the pump itself seems like an impossible task lol.
 
removal is easy lol its getting it back on when its gonna fight. but if the alt bracket is off its much easier to see wtf your doing.

but your leaving that on too remember, you loosen up the 3 bolts a 1/4 inch each so it will let the bracket move just enough to get the rear valve cover off.
 


ScottyDoggs said:
removal is easy lol its getting it back on when its gonna fight. but if the alt bracket is off its much easier to see wtf your doing.

but your leaving that on too remember, you loosen up the 3 bolts a 1/4 inch each so it will let the bracket move just enough to get the rear valve cover off.
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Oh yeah. Anything else than needs to come off for getting the VC off?
 
dont think you n/a guys got much covering the rear cover if any thing.

the alt bracket just touches the cover, take a peek at it, its not a big deal.
 
I don't have one either, but there's a tab on the back of the cover that slides in a bracket in the back, which curls over the VC.
 


In your "procedure" you didn't put down a dab of RTV before the LIM gaskets. Do a dab before and a dab after in each corner.

Scott.. the o-rings to replace the coolant elbow ones are in the LIM kit. However.. most first timers are going to bust an elbow taking them out. Even if they are metal, especially if they were rtv'd in.

I didn't read closely.. make sure you use pipe sealant on the LIM bolts.

On the UIM bolts... use 89 inch lbs. Do not go over and as you torque them ...watch the ear that you are torquing at. If you see it turning white where it attaches to the UIM, stop right there. I've seen people break off those ears.. it's easy enough to do.

Search on my name and "ea sy" without the space. You'll find plenty of info on various things that may be very helpful. Pics included.
 
BillBoost37 said:
In your "procedure" you didn't put down a dab of RTV before the LIM gaskets. Do a dab before and a dab after in each corner.

Scott.. the o-rings to replace the coolant elbow ones are in the LIM kit. However.. most first timers are going to bust an elbow taking them out. Even if they are metal, especially if they were rtv'd in.

I didn't read closely.. make sure you use pipe sealant on the LIM bolts.

On the UIM bolts... use 89 inch lbs. Do not go over and as you torque them ...watch the ear that you are torquing at. If you see it turning white where it attaches to the UIM, stop right there. I've seen people break off those ears.. it's easy enough to do.

Search on my name and "ea sy" without the space. You'll find plenty of info on various things that may be very helpful. Pics included.
Click to expand...

I was just gonna torque the LIM bolts dry with no thread sealant at 14ft lb.
 
And I had on there, 4 dabs of RTV without end seals on, and 4 more with end seals on. Are there any other places RTV needs to go?
 
use thread sealant on the lim bolts or they leak coolant. clean them first, then new sealant, then tq em down.

the rtv you got it right.
 


jesus stop slow down read. clean em with a wire brush, you'll see why, or get as much of the old crap off the threads. then use thread sealant, same stuff plumbers use to seal pipe threads.

this little jar costs like 6 bucks or so, over the last 5 years its 1/2 gone now, maybe more. you have water pump bolts that need this sealant too. along with a few other in the timing cover.

81oFK7Xn5wL._SY355_.jpg
 
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