exhaust leak
- Thread starter herb101
- Start date
camopaint0707
Banned
not too bad depending how rusted and corroded the bolts are
Fivefingerdeathpunch
New member
Got a fog machine?? I'd send fog/smoke up the tailpipe and figure out what spot is leaking.
Would make it eaiser to tell if it's the rear manifold or the downpipe flange leaking.
Otherwise removing it isnt hard, just time consuming and you might break a couple exhaust crossover bolts, they tend to snap alot.
Would make it eaiser to tell if it's the rear manifold or the downpipe flange leaking.
Otherwise removing it isnt hard, just time consuming and you might break a couple exhaust crossover bolts, they tend to snap alot.
xxburkettxx07
New member
Having the same problem with my 98gtp
Fivefingerdeathpunch
New member
I tried to help, but nobody ever listens. The internet is great.
Google it, search it on here if you REALLY want your answers, nobody is gunna sugar coat this **** for you.
Crossover, rear manifold, egr, air pump brackets if cali car, other various brackets, downpipe bolts etc all come out.
Google it, search it on here if you REALLY want your answers, nobody is gunna sugar coat this **** for you.
Crossover, rear manifold, egr, air pump brackets if cali car, other various brackets, downpipe bolts etc all come out.
QUICKSILVER462
New member
I also had to do this due to the factory steel shim gasket leaking. I found it easiest to remove the two dog bone mounts and use a ratchet strap to hold the engine forward a couple extra inches. Also, removing the transmission dipstick gives more room, place a drain pan under the transmission and remove the bolts holding the trans. dipstick in place and then pull out, fluid will come out, that is what the pan is for. I was able to access all manifold bolts from the top this way. I used the Felpro graphite impregnated exhaust manifold gaskets and it worked well, the replacement manifold was a ported unit from a popular vendor I purchased 4 years ago. It had about .060 warpage on the head side flange at one end but still sealed, so some warpage is probably unavoidable.
My stock unit had even more warpage, It would be possible to machine the flange straight but the crossover pipe mount would need to be cut off and then re-welded back into place after machining, as it gets in the way of the equipment.
Hope this helps!
My stock unit had even more warpage, It would be possible to machine the flange straight but the crossover pipe mount would need to be cut off and then re-welded back into place after machining, as it gets in the way of the equipment.
Hope this helps!
buickman104
New member
I posted this on another thread but figured it might interest someone on this thread.
I saw this product on Jay Leno's Garage that looked interesting called "Lab Metal High Temp". It is a liquid metal puddy-like substance that you can coat on cracked manifolds, cross overs, headers, etc. to fill in and permanently seal the cracks. You coat it on less than 1/4 inch and let it air dry for 12 to 18 hours then you bake it by running the car for an hour to cure it. I am looking to test this product when my power log eventually cracks.
Here is the link to the video
http://youtu.be/RWisGeUpHHc
Just search for "lab metal high temp" on your favorite search engine and check for prices.
If anyone has a cracked manifold and would like to try this method of resealing please try it and let us know!
If anyone wants to try it as a cheaper or easier solution if the leak point is easily accessible.
I saw this product on Jay Leno's Garage that looked interesting called "Lab Metal High Temp". It is a liquid metal puddy-like substance that you can coat on cracked manifolds, cross overs, headers, etc. to fill in and permanently seal the cracks. You coat it on less than 1/4 inch and let it air dry for 12 to 18 hours then you bake it by running the car for an hour to cure it. I am looking to test this product when my power log eventually cracks.
Here is the link to the video
http://youtu.be/RWisGeUpHHc
Just search for "lab metal high temp" on your favorite search engine and check for prices.
If anyone has a cracked manifold and would like to try this method of resealing please try it and let us know!
If anyone wants to try it as a cheaper or easier solution if the leak point is easily accessible.
xxburkettxx07
New member
As long as you disconnect the down pipe first you should be good to go
BillBoost37
New member
You can yank the engine forward that little bit w/o disconnecting the exhaust.
If you want to know where it is and are a reasonable person.. put the car on ramps while cold .. jump under and or move your hands around the seams of the exahust.. you don't touch it.. but you'll feel the breeze the leak creates.
If you want to know where it is and are a reasonable person.. put the car on ramps while cold .. jump under and or move your hands around the seams of the exahust.. you don't touch it.. but you'll feel the breeze the leak creates.
So this local mechanic said he will charge $520 to install a new rear exhaust manifold and he gets his parts from the Chevy dealership. The part is $225 and his labor is about the same plus tax. What didn't make sense to me was he said he will cut behind the cat and re-weld it. He said that the exhaust manifold is stainless steel that's why it's expensive. Seems to me the front manifold is cast iron I would think the rear is the same too.
Any thoughts on all this?
Any thoughts on all this?
What do you mean knock, like pinging knock? Are they easier to install than the factory ones?
tomtom123
New member
Knock as in knock retard. When the car sees knock it pulls, (retards), the timing. Knock is what will kill pistons. The less KR, Knock Retard, you see, the better off you'll be.
I wouldn't necessarily say they are easier to install. But if you're going to have a shop put on a new original manifold and the manifold is $225, for that price you can get a nice set of headers and increase your exhaust flow. The more exhaust out, the happier your car will be.
It's also a good idea to do headers now if you ever plan on modding in the future. With the headers, you may be able to drop to like a 3.5" pulley if you have 0 KR. But thats a seperate conversation. A good place for info on that is on these forums. "Safely Modding Your 3800".
I wouldn't necessarily say they are easier to install. But if you're going to have a shop put on a new original manifold and the manifold is $225, for that price you can get a nice set of headers and increase your exhaust flow. The more exhaust out, the happier your car will be.
It's also a good idea to do headers now if you ever plan on modding in the future. With the headers, you may be able to drop to like a 3.5" pulley if you have 0 KR. But thats a seperate conversation. A good place for info on that is on these forums. "Safely Modding Your 3800".
I looked underneath and sure enough the exhaust manifold looks like SS. It be nice if it is just a manifold gasket leak that needs to be replaced but still it's in such a confined area. Does Speed Daddy headers require and special modifications? Meaning cutting, welding, removing etc. I can't remove any of the EPA garbage that i would like such as the cat or egr and also it looks like it would create a lot more heat under the hood. Sucks that i just spent over $200 for the crossover pipe two weeks ago, the original was cracked.
tomtom123; did you do your headers yourself and what all was involved?
tomtom123; did you do your headers yourself and what all was involved?
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
i just did headers, its like 6 bolts a manifold take the down pipe off, un bolt the manifolds and cross over, install the new headers. theres a how to here. its not all that bad to do, a few hours work.
sd headers you need to move the o2 sensor, or hammer the fire wall so it dont hit.
i moved mine to the lower part of the crossover pipe.
sd headers you need to move the o2 sensor, or hammer the fire wall so it dont hit.
i moved mine to the lower part of the crossover pipe.
Fivefingerdeathpunch
New member
Why do exhaust threads always lead to someone saying headers this and headers that.
Think about it guys, not everyones want to go that route or even has a ****ing clue what they are and what they do. Nor do they know whats involved with them and the fact that speedy daddys header are not plug and play, they have issues and many at that. Then if he has emissions he has to buy ANOTHER cat and thats more money and what if his check engine light comes on because of it. They/he likely has NO clue about computer tunes and likely has NO idea what any of that means and how he can get it done. And in the end it COSTS MORE money. I really wish people would think before they type, this is exactly why threads go on for pages with useless infomation like this thread already has.
The rear exhaust manifold is cast, not stainless steel. They never came with SS, it was a mass produced motor and more cost effective to go with cast.
Think about it guys, not everyones want to go that route or even has a ****ing clue what they are and what they do. Nor do they know whats involved with them and the fact that speedy daddys header are not plug and play, they have issues and many at that. Then if he has emissions he has to buy ANOTHER cat and thats more money and what if his check engine light comes on because of it. They/he likely has NO clue about computer tunes and likely has NO idea what any of that means and how he can get it done. And in the end it COSTS MORE money. I really wish people would think before they type, this is exactly why threads go on for pages with useless infomation like this thread already has.
The rear exhaust manifold is cast, not stainless steel. They never came with SS, it was a mass produced motor and more cost effective to go with cast.