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Exhaust Headers

lets just say a stock pulley on a top swap is as strong feeling as a 3.4 on a l67. your not running a 3.4 with out a ic or corn. or lots of timing pulled form the tune.

3.4 on my set up pre ic was 6º kr at part throttle. i just took it off and put the stock pulley back on, to kill 6 degrees kr you need to pull way to much timing, and that was part throttle, not even close to wot.
 


a 3.4 seems to be the happy medium for power gain and work required. I would follow the receipe suggested in this thread, it is a winning combo. the power output of a properly built 3.2 car is going to wear on the transmission, and you will need some transmission work sooner than later, and any pulley smaller than a 3.4 is going to take a lot more work like a cam, which will take a decent mechanic all day to install, and the same thing with an intercooler, but if you want to go fast, then plan on spending about 1000 for a cam and all necessary parts or about 1000 for an intercooler and everything associated, do both and plan on spending 3000 for a built transmission.

last year I was rocking a full size intercooler, xp cam, ported heads, headers, bigger injectors, bigger throttle body, bigger mass air flow sensor, and a good overkill tune, and I would estimate my power output at about 350 hp at the wheels, and I also had a built transmission that I bought used. I was running a 2.8" pulley. the problem is the power adder. the Eaton M90 generation 3 supercharger was designed and built to be cheap. the engineering for it took place in the 1980's era. so really any other power adder out there is going to make more power simply because of newer technology or better materials. I almost went turbo, but ended up selling my kit, and with how many turbo kits that are for sale now, you could ditch the supercharger and do a turbo for 1500 with just about everything included, and will be faster than most M90 supercharged cars.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/17482-Safely-Modding-Your-3800-Powered-Car!!
 
up to 3 grand for a built tranny, and turbos set ups are going for 2000 used or less. but the last two cheap ones just sold. 1500 and 1600.

full ic set up your looking at 800 ish new.

injectors 150 or more.

pulleys and hub roughly 50 a pulley, 45 for a hub.

sd headers 220 new. or togs or zzp or wbs. all the rest cost hundreds more.

ported heads as little as 100 bucks in tools for a diy pair. or up to a grand easy or more for ported heads from someone. or a shop.

then theres cams, thats gonna run you a good 400 to 500 easy no matter what cam you run. turbo or blower cam.
 


I'll join the fun lol

I ran a 3.2 on stage 3 heads and is3 cam, Intercooled with a big phenolic IC.

7* of knock on the dyno gave me 3 Pistons blown up.

But first my top swap, IC, 1.9 rockers spun s rod bearing in after a week.

Both instances I was not tuned.

You'll feel more "power" with more timing and the correct pulley. Get over the pulley envy make the car reliable fast.
 
I wonder if people even spent 10K in mod's on these things when they came out new. I'm sure most of the posters in this thread are well aware that a Camaro could be bought, money spent on mod's so it would run 10's, and cost a total of 10K
 
The Mod money adds up quickly, especially with a fully built transmission. I would rather spend money on mods for a car that can be driven in the winter also. Those Camaros, mustangs, challengers etc.... are parked 5 months out of the year here. even the stock ones people dare to drive in the winter here you usually see in a ditch, spun out at an intersection or stuck on a hill.
 


I didn't think of it that way since i don't drive my GTP in the winter that is what my less then 10K Jeep is for.

rickisrad said:
The Mod money adds up quickly, especially with a fully built transmission. I would rather spend money on mods for a car that can be driven in the winter also. Those Camaros, mustangs, challengers etc.... are parked 5 months out of the year here. even the stock ones people dare to drive in the winter here you usually see in a ditch, spun out at an intersection or stuck on a hill.
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rickisrad said:
The Mod money adds up quickly, especially with a fully built transmission. I would rather spend money on mods for a car that can be driven in the winter also. Those Camaros, mustangs, challengers etc.... are parked 5 months out of the year here. even the stock ones people dare to drive in the winter here you usually see in a ditch, spun out at an intersection or stuck on a hill.
Click to expand...

I feel the same way, I live in South West Wyoming and we have already had snow on the ground several times this month. But, a Grand Prix will never reliably run a 10 sec 1/4 and still be driveable in the winter. you could buy a TEP trans with all the bells and whistles and spend under 4K. you could buy a new turbo kit that will max out the power handling capability of the trans for another 4K, and the car might run 12's. with used parts it would cost far less.
 
WarStryker13 said:
If it was just $10,750 they had spent, including wheels and damn good snow tires for the winter, then they'd at least be halfway in the ditch rather than all the way in the ditch. Lol
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I mean, yeah.

If I put $10k in a car worth fifteen hundred bucks...I'd probably never drive it in the snow.

But that's just common sense; or you don't care.

Either way I still lol
 


Very true. I'm not going to put 10k, or even 5k into mine. I'll make it reliable, nice to drive, and fun. In that order. It's not going to be "fast", but I want to be able to stomp the gas and giggle a little, and still be able to drive it every day.

I'll pick something else to make scary fast, something that will actually be worth the money it takes to get it there.
 
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