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Engine wont start



You sure the harmonic balancer got installed correctly? Hand tightened all the way down, then finished with an impact? My balancer went on wrong after my cam install, it sheared the woodruff key. My car wouldn't start and it would also backfire through the intake.
 
Check your MAF to. If it's running off stock speed density tables with a cam, it probably won't start. My car wouldn't start unless it's running off the MAF. I doubt this is the issue though.
 
you 100% need a CTS plugged in to get your startup afr out of the basement....

Also, it may offer some benifit to try with the maf unplugged.

Also, double check your plug wires to make sure they are on right.. dont trust the numbers on the coilpacks always....
 
I'm still wondering about the timing and if the dots were lined up correctly. Or the balancer didn't locate properly on the key or sheared it off.
 


Dried the plugs and cylinders, no start. Took em out, and there wet. The HB is on the keyway. It's on right, I double checked. I had two mechanics check it out, there stumped. Of course not GTP mechanics though. I read bedwards thread, the difference is that my engine doesn't have a hard time cranking like yours did. And just the occasional pop. The whole motor I got from the junkyard, they pulled it and said it was a really nice running motor. Not at all did I ever remove the heads.... Jus swapped cam lifters rods springs and rockers. Even if I was one tooth off, it should atleast start or sound like it's going to I'd think. Not even starting fluid works, and I tried spraying It through the vacuum line leading under the supercharger cone. Two different MAF i have tried. One thing I have not tried, is uploading all stock tables to my PCM, however I do have the 3.0 installed ATM With 42.5 injectors. I know the pulley is to small probably for now, but it's all I have and I just want to hear it start before I buy a 3.2 . Although my PCM was already tuned for this setup. I checked compression in cylinder 6, I got it up to 120 psi. I'm really stumped :(

P.s. I promise you all, my valve locks are installed correctly
 
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what cam sensor and crank sensors did you use, the ones off the jy motor or yours? the jy motors could have been bad thus why it was in the yard to start with.

and you heard the jy motor running? or going by what they told ya?

for me i dont like pulling the engine myself at the yard, because you cant start it most of the time, when the yard pulls them they know it works or they wont resell it as a running engine.
 


brand new cam sensor, and im using the crankshaft sensor off my old motor. when unplugging the crank sensor i get no spark, and when plugged in i get spark. the jy pulled the motor and told me it was a running nice motor. i didnt pull it.
 
hmm i found bill's post about this...


BillBoost37 said:
You'd have to have something like the EGR tube off (if not blocked) or the brake booster for that big of an issue.
Click to expand...



my EGR is disconnected at the exhaust manifold, i guess my brother broke it. but is connected to the LIM. will that totally stop the car from starting? Really? an EGR? my brother said it wouldnt. also i have a big line im not sure where it goes, its a thick rubber hose that turns into a metal hose down underneath the brake booster area, but i dont think its the brake booster line
 
Your EGR will be ok like that. Because the valve itself doesn't open until the pcm calls for it.

that other line.. I'm not overly worried about.

On to the plugs being wet. See...wet plugs don't fire. Even if they are wet with fuel. Your cylinders appear to be soaked. Pull the plugs again, crank it over w/o the plugs in it. But only do this once, because if you turn the key forward and backward, it reprimes the cylinders. Put the plugs back in and try to start it wtih the throttle to the floor. Not near...but all the way to the floor. That should help clear the cylinders.

yes, I'm thinking you are just flooded. A bad flood is tough to clear out. And your oil will likely smell like fuel. So you are going to want that to be changed out once you get it running.
 


ok i will try this tonite Bill, thanks for the input. Also i did check my oil last night....smelt like fuel, and its fresh oil, 1 day old all 5 quarts and filter. am i washing my cylinders out? also turning the key on and off doesnt just prime the rail? but the injectors open up before starting? because when i was trying to hook the battery up and finding my grounds before my first attempt to run, the fuel pump kept going on and off, they key was in the run position during the whole install process. maybee i flooded it withought knowing. ill have to really try to dry this up.
 
A buddy and I often refer to being right with a saying "It's my first time". This means.. we've been there, effed it up and learned the hard way. If this fires up, I'm going to say "I told ya so" and we can all laugh about how easy it was to fix. Because we all like easy fixes.

Meanwhile, I might be up in Ayer in the next night or so. If so..I think you aren't too far from that. Don't wait for me, but if I'm up there, I'd stop in.
 
alright, ill deff see what i can do tonite to get this going. if i cant get this going, it would be great if you could stop by. id rather not have to pull the timing cover off if i don't have to. i mean i'm almost 100% i made sure those teeth lined up. it may be my first time, but that was one thing i made sure i didnt screw up on. but i'm not going to give up.
 
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