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engine stalls

tod1d

tod1d

New member
Was driving home from work tonight and the engine stalled. Electrical system was still going. Coast to a stop, put it in Park, restart the car and continue to drive then it did this again. No error codes show up with Torque App, no check engine light or message on the DIC. Not sure where to begin to figure this out.
 


My bad ICM acted like that also without setting any code. Damn engine was so smooth you hardly knew it shut off.. I had to wiggle the wires on the ICM to get it to start every once in a while also.


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is there a way to test the crankshaft position sensor?

just drove the car for an hour and no issues
 


keep driving it like normal. try to keep note if the tach is working all the time, if it stops working, or drops to zero when it stalls thats a crank sensor.
 
If the crank sensor is functioning correctly and there is a different issue, chances are the tach will not drop to 0 until the engine actually stops running.

If the crank sensor has failed, the tach will immediately drop to 0 and the computer will think the engine isn't running, and will stop supplying fuel.

Kinda a chicken-and-egg thing, but the tach will be your best clue.
 
Oh I get it now. I need to keep a close eye on the tach and if it drops to zero BEFORE the engine stalls then its the crank sensor. Seems like there would only be a short period of time between the two events happening.
 
if your rolling in gear stalled out, the engine is still turning via the tranny. and the tack will still be working.

if its the crank sensor the tach will be flat on zero while rolling in gear when it stalls. or you may see it at zero way before that car stalls.
 


Bradley Tod
Driven the car twice now and has not done it again. So frustrating because I have time off from work to deal with this but if it don't keep happening soon I will just let it go until it happens again.
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they suck like that. can act up all day long one day, then not at all the next. when it stalls and fails to start back up right away thats also a good sign its the crank sensor. they can sometimes take 15 minutes, then longer, then like a week of trying. most call a tow truck, then it fires up as the truck comes takes it, or fires up when it gets to your house or shop.

when my icm was acting up it would misfire a bit then stall, but the tack kept rolling at 1700 rpm. that did toss a icm code after the second stall out.
 
Update:

Did this to me again yesterday. Yes the tach reads 0 while coasting to a stop. Also the car started with a veery ruff idle that went away after a minute or so then ran fine until it stalled about 5 minutes later while driving.
Can I get a idea what a shop will charge to fix this? like how many hours of labour they will charge for? to replace the crankshaft position sensor
 
tod1d said:
the tach reads 0 while coasting to a stop
Click to expand...
That's not the question. I apologize for being unclear.

Which goes to 0 first? the tachometer, or the actual engine RPM?

Maybe someone else can help me word my question better. I don't care about the car coasting to a stop, I'm only interested in whether the tach drops to 0 before the engine actually stops.

(If the crank sensor is failing, the tach will drop to 0 immediately even though the engine is still turning, because the computer *thinks* the engine has stopped because the crank sensor isn't sending a signal. Does that make sense?)

-BC
 
I think the tach reads 0 at the same time the engine stops because I notice the power steering is gone and the tach is at 0 at the same time.

I will know more by Monday after the mechanic I have looking at it tells me what sensor he found to be faulty.
 


On my '97 GT, the tach would drop to 0 while driving (accompanied by a small shudder) for about 5 minutes before dying. When the tach died, thats when you knew to gtfo of the way of traffic and find a good spot to hang out. Then you'd have to wait about 10 minutes before it would restart after it died. Those were the symptoms of my bad cps.
 
Talked with the mechanic this morning and they had found the MAF sensor was corroided and that is getting replaced.
 
If you think it might be a crank sensor. Shotgun one on. I've seen a lot of funky behavior from a crank sensor.

My first happy time with one was my car would seem to hiccup once or twice a day on the highway. I couldn't duplicate it, wasn't until I was scanning it and saw that the run time counter had restarted when the hiccup occurred. Literally my car had stalled and restarted. Tach didn't go to zero, none of the "expected" stuff mentioned above.

I've also noted that on most crank sensors .. they are magnets and collect crap in between them.
 
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