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Engine Maintenance and upgrades

G

GTPNovak

New member
I have a LIM gasket leak and have some parts to put on.

my thought was remove thermostat reinstall the housing with supplied gasket from gasket kit (not needed when thermostat is installed).


- Fully flush the cooling system, refilling with water and have it circulate by running the engine. Once the cooling system is flushed (2 or 3 water fills) drain and leave empty.
- Pull plugs and wires noting which wire goes to which cylinder.
- Take off the throttle body, then remove fuel system rails and injectors.
- Take off super changer, then lower intake manifold.
- Protect the ports on the top of the block.
- Remove valve covers and cover the valve train.
- Move on to headers (assuming the extra room will be helpful)
- Replace exhaust manifold gaskets and install headers.
- Replace the valve cover gaskets and reinstall.
- Place LIM gasket on and rtv the corners, place LIM after fully cleaning back on with new AL coolant elbows and tighten down.
- Install new thermostat.
- Check plug gap and install new plugs.
- Place supercharger back on with new Plenum gasket.
Not changing the supercharger oil as it was done less then a year ago.
- Replace injector o rings and install.
- Replace wires and route to the correct cylinder.
- Refill cooling system with normal green coolant.
- Change oil and filter.
- Run car and remove any air from the cooling system.


Smoky burn outs.


Crack a beer and think about how you just saved about 900 dollars.

Does anyone see any issues in the process?


 


Yes big problem...

Now that I have a complete list....D'it!... I have no excuses not to do this myself.


Thanks for taking the time to write this up.


Saved for later.

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk
 
I prefer grey rtv instead of supercharger and throttle body gaskets, my gaskets always got leaks.

If plug wires are old you could replace them, they may brake when being removed anyways.

You may want to replace the radiator if it's gunked up with dexcool sludge.
 
I am doing wires i forgot that. will try the gaskets, if i get codes then rtv as i already have them. We will see how clogged up the cooling system is before we talk about a new radiator, would assume if you do the radiator you should do the heater core as well.
 
Yes if you need the radiator then you probably need the heater core. I have to flush out my wife's heater core every so often because of sludge, doing her lim gaskets soon too.
 
GTPNovak said:
I have a LIM gasket leak and have some parts to put on.

my thought was remove thermostat reinstall the housing with supplied gasket from gasket kit (not needed when thermostat is installed).


- Fully flush the cooling system, refilling with water and have it circulate by running the engine. Once the cooling system is flushed (2 or 3 water fills) drain and leave empty.
- Pull plugs and wires noting which wire goes to which cylinder.
- Take off the throttle body, then remove fuel system rails and injectors.

Work from top down, fuel rails first, then SC/TB together, no need to remove TB if you don't want to.

- Take off super changer, then lower intake manifold.
- Protect the ports on the top of the block.
- Remove valve covers and cover the valve train.

Leave covers on until any work on valve train is done, if just gaskets, make sure you get the Felpro Kit with the cover bolt grommets and replace those too (lil, blue things) if high mileage, then may be a good time to replace the valve seals too... Just sayin!

- Move on to headers (assuming the extra room will be helpful)
- Replace exhaust manifold gaskets and install headers.

If planning to mod, is a good time to install extra bung for wideband, can be plugged if not used for now. Replace exhaust gaskets with stock metal ones, either save your old ones or order new, but use those.

- Replace the valve cover gaskets and reinstall.
- Place LIM gasket on and rtv the corners, place LIM after fully cleaning back on with new AL coolant elbows and tighten down.
- Install new thermostat.

RTV not only the corners but I RTV the entire bridge across from head to head... If tuning capable, install 180* Tstat. Must program fans for 180* though or useless.

- Check plug gap and install new plugs.
- Place supercharger back on with new Plenum gasket.

Port SC and TB? Nows the time :D

Not changing the supercharger oil as it was done less then a year ago.
- Replace injector o rings and install.

How many miles (O Rings)?

- Replace wires and route to the correct cylinder.
- Refill cooling system with normal green coolant.

Keep car front end up on stands or elevated to fill collant, will help eliminate air pockets.

- Change oil and filter.

Drop oil valve galley to run a few minutes and dump when done. Use cheap oil for first fill.

- Run car and remove any air from the cooling system.


- Smoky burn outs.

Then make sure you save for axles, Diff and or Trans, lol...


Crack a beer and think about how you just saved about 900 dollars.

Does anyone see any issues in the process?
Click to expand...

No issues, just suggestions...
: )
 


Coolone:

Car has 71,000 miles.

I planned to remove the throttle body from the SC to make it easier to clean and possibly port (not sure if i want to get that involved).

I chose to go with factory "offset" thermostat for two reasons the offset must be there for a reason and not being able to tune / people debate 180 doesn't do anything.

The new valve cover gaskets and grommets are felpro.

Dont see myself installing a wideband. I have new factory metal exhaust manifold gaskets.

I thought i read it was a good idea to replaced the o-ring any time you pull the injector out? I think the gasket kit i bought from RockAuto came with them.
 
The injector is debatable. But they're cheap enough so why not. The plastic retainers usually break so if yours do, don't worry. For the TB, remove the IAC, TPS, and MAF...clean them. You can clean up the TB with some light sanding and such, but unless you plan on tuning the car...leave it alone. Just get all the carbon out of it. If you don't care about a check engine light, delete the EGR and block it off and you won't have to worry about the build up going forward. On the blower...opening up the outlet actually does help to lower temps...it also lets it flow a little better, but is it worth all the trouble? Meh. I wouldn't bother with it anymore because I'm lazy. The 180* though, yes. While the fans don't kick on sooner...it'll still cruise at that temp.

For the exhaust manifolds, unless they're leaking...the factory gaskets are metal and are re-useable as well. Don't bother there.

Been there, done all this. Try and save ya some time.
 
I do plan to drop to 3.4 pulley and an overkill tune as the ultimate goal or stopping point. I believe i should have all or most of the supporting engine modifications to allow a 3.4 pulley safely based on research and the how to safely mod your 3800.
 
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