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Engine Knock

Like I said...doing things on your own on the side little by little will be very beneficial.

Learning is fun...right? LOL
 


tdm571 said:
Learning is fun when it's on your terms. Not when it's dictated by someone else.
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Now just pull the heads and you should be able to lift the shortblock out by yourself...lol

There's always a chance the guy you got it from lied about the miles on the motor he put in it as well... Coulda been a high mile super cheap motor he threw in just to sell the car. And for the price of a motor its not worth getting rid of the whole car, I mean I been looking at l26's a bit lately and see them for as low as 450 shipped with a few miles on them or 5-700 for lower miles. And it really truly is just very basic hand tools to remove a motor. Only thing the average guy might not have thats needed is about 4-5 feet of extensions to get the PITA bolt in the crotch(for lack of a better word) where the trans meets motor. And I'm sure you could find someone with a hoist or get creative and use rafters like was mentioned earlier.
 
B1tch bolt is easy...remove rear head...get a 18mm open end wrench...stick 'er on down thur...break it loose. After I broke it loose, I got it the rest of the way out with just mah fingerz
 
bluegtp91 said:
B1tch bolt is easy...remove rear head...get a 18mm open end wrench...stick 'er on down thur...break it loose. After I broke it loose, I got it the rest of the way out with just mah fingerz
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Or this^^ lol

I've never pulled one with the heads off, I may have to try that next time. Cause even with the extensions its still not very easy trying to get it on there.
 
Well, I have till Dec 31 to decide if I want to scrap it. After that, here in KY, I have to pay taxes and registration.
 


I found an engine from a 2002 GTP. Could I run it with my single exhaust and 97 GTP PCM? Would I also need to change out the fuel pump?
 
Your single exhaust is the same as the GTP one except yours doesn't split right before the muffler.

I'm forgetting what year your car is.. but probably can run it.

You'd need to add the map and bcs connectors to your harness and be done.
 
Sounds like the rod bearing. Did you drain the oil or drop the oil pan yet? If you drop the pan, wiggle the rods around and if that noise is from the rod, you should be able to feel a big difference in how much play one would have compared to the others. And I'm wondering about the computer too. This was the case of a diesel engine, but friend of a friend had a diesel pickup with a programmer. He had alot of knock and my friend thought his motor was shot. He unhooked the programmer so it would return to stock. Turned it on and no more knock. Also the b**ch bolt isn't really that difficult with about 2 feet of 1/2" drive extensions. I actually consider it one of the easier bolts to remove when removing the engine or transmission. The pain in the butt bolts to me are the ones holding that transmission to engine plate you have to remove first. I usually have to remove the oil pressure sending unit and make one notch turns (using the closed end, turn a notch, and then reseat the wrench on the bolt each little turn) with box wrenches for 10 minutes with them. If anyone has better socket or wrench combinations for those 4 bolts, I'd love to hear them.
 
It's a little too late to try the PCM at this point. I'm not gonna shell out $100 for all those gaskets just in case it's the PCM. Found an L67 that I might get for around $500 with the tranny. So, I shouldn't have to separate the two when I remove them.
 


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