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engine dying

We are on the same page then. I'm merely directing more towards the items we see commonly cause this issue. Checking each piece of a fuel system isn't necessary in my mind to diagnose the fuel pump. If they can't hear the pump run and the engine doesn't fire up, and when the pump is heard the engine starts. In that case the regulator and resistor are not causing the issue. That's where I'm going with this... many of the folks here don't have the level of tools and testing equipment that you and I have.

hose tools are nice, but if I'm on the side of the road, I'm diagnosing with whatever I have available. I can tell if the rail has enough pressure by pressing the schrader and it spurting out instead of trickling out. I can tell if my injectors are firing with a simple 194 corner light bulb.

Just trying to hone in on the actual issue instead of testing each and every piece possible.
 


Agreed, but he says the car is starting so the pump is working to some extent. whether hearing it prime or not, checking some of the most vital part of that system wont hurt. I mean the FP regulator, FP relay, injectors, etc. is all right there. With a simple $10 OHMs/multi meter, u could check all that right there in no time.

Do it himself or pay a repair shop over and over to keep diagnosing it.

Let us know the deal..................
 
You aren't diagnosing a regulator with a multimeter, sorry. You need fuel pressure aka pump running and a pressure gauge to test it. How about we stop the back and forth about crap they can't test and move on to stuff they can test?
 
Leah and Justin said:
relay, pump and pessure all good.
Click to expand...
My fuel pressure was good when I checked it at the shop too, I finally ended up hooking up a fuel pressure gauge to watch my pressure as I was driving so i could see what it was doing when it stalled.
My car never threw any codes and this one had me stumped.
It end up being the pump dropping to around 10 psi then totally cutting out once it got hot, would'nt have figured this out had I not watched fuel press. while the car was stalling.
Might not be your issue just saying you don't know your fuel pressure is good until you've observed it while the issue occurs.
 
231FUN said:
My fuel pressure was good when I checked it at the shop too, I finally ended up hooking up a fuel pressure gauge to watch my pressure as I was driving so i could see what it was doing when it stalled.
My car never threw any codes and this one had me stumped.
It end up being the pump dropping to around 10 psi then totally cutting out once it got hot, would'nt have figured this out had I not watched fuel press. while the car was stalling.
Might not be your issue just saying you don't know your fuel pressure is good until you've observed it while the issue occurs.
Click to expand...
So what ended up being the overall problem? I mean what did you have to replace?
 


Mybad, didnt mean to say it in those words. Im working on so many cars right now as it is so i gotta lot of things on my mind. But yeah, obviously u would use a fuel pressure guage thru the fuel service port on the fuel rail. just did mines not to long ago, and i did the exhaust back psi. And of course u would use the multimeter on the injector connectors/sensors. And if u wanted to check the fuel pump relay, They have lil relay testers specifically made to test relays but u dont need that(I was just throwing that out there).

now work smart, and not toooooooo hard...............
 
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