• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

engine and trans mount replacement difficulty

Lifespeed

New member
How hard is it to replace the lower engine and transmission mounts. It looks like there are only two, not counting the dog bones from the top of the engine to the radiator support. The dogbones have already been replaced, and they did help. The car buzzes at an idle, and it feels like the motor still moves a fair amount when you put it in park and it rolls back. Is this a repair that a competent DIY mechanic can do in the garage with a floor jack and stands?

Motor Mount - GM (10448575) | GMPartsDirect.com

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-trans-mount-22146834
 


Yep, can be done in the garage. Done at least 4 cars so far. Mine twice, lol. All I did was set it up on stands and once you get the trans mount bolts loose throw a jack and a wood board that will span the trans and jack it up with the board inbetween. It will lift up enough to squeak the mount out. Then just slowly lower the jack and make sure the bolts line up as you go. Then same for the motor mount. You'll probably have to remove the splash sheild to get to it. Just a few pins and it'll come out. Obviously pulling the pass. tire off will open it up. You may have to remove the pass. side dogbone up top to get it to jack up enough to clear the new mount.
 
its pretty simple. took me about 2 slow hours doin what fordman said. think i took the tires off on both sides. cant remember but do remember it was pretty easy
 
ive done it too, jack stands and a 2x8 and jack to span the two pans do one side at a time. so move the jacks location for each side. pretty easy.
 
Yea, I did remove both front tires for easier access now that I think about it.


both wheels off for the win!!!! tranny mount is cake. the motor mount side you can just lift the shield, easier to see whats going on removed tho. i drop the socket on the top nuts, then put the tip of my 3/8 ratchet in the socket, cause the stud is to long and cant fit a deep socket. break it free and work it out. do the same to make the nuts tight again.
 


Just a quick check before ordering the lower mounts. These things are always failed at 180K miles, correct? The engine does rock back and forth a bit, although the new dogbones at the top have limited movement somewhat. I was under there last night trying to find the exhaust leak, and couldn't see anything immediately obvious at the motor mounts, but wasn't looking that closely as I was trying to chase down the exhaust leak.
 
most of these cars leak oil on the motor mount. oil breaks down the rubber and the mount falls apart. mine was so gone the engine and tranny would twist in the bay when shifted from p to D or d to r.

the trans mount you can look at it, at the top part will be a round button sticking up through the metal top part of the new mount. on the new one its flush with the metal. raised button shows how much its compressed over time.
 


Back
Top