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Dual Sub Question

Confusingboat

New member
Simple question -- would it be better to have two identical subs with crossovers set to their full bass range, or to have one set to the lower half of bass range and the other set to the upper half? And not necessarily half, it could be 70/30 or whatever would produce the best results should this prove to be the better option.
 


What kind of amp are you using to get this low and mid range sub setting??? Most amps just have a high/mid/low crossover and if you set a sup to mid you basically wasting 6 1/2s or 6x9s use. Woofers should be to low, the frequency range will be dependant on your sub and amp capabilities

Personal Opinion for GPs is a good quality single sub, duals is just too much shaking and too much pressure, your decklid will rattle regardless of dynomating it and it will sound like crap from behind the vehicle. The trunk is too small of an area for 2 hard hitting subs in a proper box. A single should suffice for any normal person, more than that is just a waste and showing off.
 
You could do it with separate amps powering them, tho Im not too sure how it would really sound. Part of me thinks it might actually hit the perfect combination, but the other part of me thinks it will not, you would have 2 separate sounds comming from the woofers, one trying to hit a certain frequency, the other trying to hit another and I think it might clash.

Just because they are set to different frequencies, doesn't mean they will only hit on those frequencies. They will still hit the same time just with a different tone because they are setup different, might sound really crappy... Just have to try it, or if your lucky someone has tried before but that's doubtful. Most just stick with setting up one or duals together and leaving it be.
 
You must contemplate psycho acoustics if you're going to approach this the right way. What you're actually looking at is using one speaker for mid-woofer and the other for sub-woofer. However, once you rise above ~70hz your body becomes able to localize frequencies.

Therefore, you need stereo mid-bass and not mono mid-bass. True mono typically isn't obtained in car audio simple because we sum R+C to L+C. Therefore you end up with L+2C+R. Just because the common channel information is doubled by summing L and R doesn't mean we have true mono.

Bottom line, you shouldn't play a sub too much above 80hz unless you have time alignment. Also, if you plan on placing your LP above that then you should look towards stereo subs.

Then again, if you're going through that much trouble, why not employ a 4-way system with a sub in the trunk that takes over at ~50hz? :) A mid-woofer needs crossovers that are capable of bandpass or LP and HP on the same channel. You're also talking about a nightmare to tune. Pony up and pay a shop at that point. Phase and crossover points will be very hard to tune by ear. This is where microphones take over.
 
you wont believe me till you hear it, but if you have a ported box, only connect one of the subs and leave the other disconnected so it can be used as a passive sub. my brother did it and he said that it pounded way harder. ive heard other people who have done it before, and liked it also.

i dont have subs so i obviously, i cant try it.... lol
 


I'm going sealed because I don't need SPL, I need SQ. Thus the idea for separation of frequency ranges for less chance of distortion.

And as for the 4-way system, I might have a 12" in the trunk for 22-80Hz and two 8" for stereo 80-somethingHz somewhere in the cabin (me and I800 had a little chat in le chatbox). But where in the cabin to put them?....
 
Lol if I got rid of the backseat I could put ALL my **** there...ALL of it. But I would need it to flip down like the seats do because I like how I can haul huge **** in my trunk.
 
ok so i had forgot exactly what my brother did, how his box was set up, there was a board inbetween the 2 sides and he cut some holes in it wiht a 4 in hole saw and its a sealed box, not a ported one. sorry for my mistake
 


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