• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Drive Sprocket Support Bearing

JJ91284

JJ91284

New member
Whats the easiest way to remove the drive sprocket support bearing (tool, ect.). I would like to replace that one as well as the one in the channel plate. The channel plate bearing was easy to remove as I just used a metal punch with a hammer and lightly tapped it and it came right out.

I plan on using my Harbor freights bearing and race installer set when I go to reinstall them.
 


I got the drive sprocket bearing out. I ended up using the 2 vice grips and tried pulling it out, when the top lip of the bearing broke which allowed the needle bearings to fall out. At that point I was like screw it so I took a small flat head screwdriver and gently tried prying it when I realized it wasn't going anywhere. I then covered the trans took a dremel with a stone and gently scribed the bearing multiple times to weaken the metal so I could break it and pull it out. I tried the screwdriver approach again and I was able to bend the bearing inward. I then grabbed the vice grips, and was able to pull it out. I have a little marring on the drive sprocket 1/8-1/4 inch but it isn't deep at all (inital entry point of screwdriver, dremel never hit it). I took a little emery cloth and scotchbrite just on the are to smooth any potential high points and it looks good. It really shouldn't matter to much as the needle bearing gets pressed in and the majority of the surface is excellent. I'll post pictures later to give an idea of what I did.
 
Here are the pictures. Those marks you see were from the screwdriver, but your finger nail doesn't even catch it so it should be ok.

New O-ring installed on Parking thing






If you notice the new bearing, it is not symetrical if you look at both ends of it. The old bearing had the thicker side towards the drivechain while the thinner side towards the torque converter. Does it matter out of curiousity which way you install it. I wouldn't think it matters but who knows. I'm no trans expert.









My vertical engine stand, works great as its the perfect level when sitting on my goodyear roller chair.

 
Last edited:
Anyone know what bushing driver set is needed to replace all the bushings in the trans? Anyone have any recommendations on other tools that could be used instead. I need to find a bushing driver set that I can hopefully pickup tomorrow,
 
Well I got the bushings out of the 1-2 reaction drum.

I ended up using a small chisel with a 5 lb hammer and starting tapping around the bushing 180 degrees of each impact for about 3 minutes. No gouges at all, so I think it worked out pretty well. I was looking for a way to install them when I realized my 34mm socket is to small while my 36mm socket is to big. Tomorrow I'll probably buy a 35mm socket and it should fit pretty snug and then I'll just pound them in, after I first pound it in with a piece of wood. I'll probably stick the rest of the bushings in the freezer later tonight as that might make it a bit easier reinstalling them. If that doesn't work, then I might take a MAP gas torch to the assembly just to warm it up a bit. I really need to find a bushing driver set local.

I got the idea of this site

Bushing & Seal Cutter - JT0280







 
For the stator support bearing just put it back in as the original one was, if it was the same thickness on both sides then I would put the thicker side of your new bearing in first and it needs to go in just below flush, DONT drive it down until it stops! For removing bushings you may have to get creative though it looks like you made something work ok, just be careful not to gouge things up too much or go back over them with a small round file or emery cloth like you did for the stator support. I dont know of a bushing driver set that you will find locally but you may be able to find something close. I use a special driver set made specifically for automatic transmissions but is very expensive and they are made by transmission tool specialty companies so are more difficult to find. Scotty found a bushing driver set somewhere so maybe he will chime in on if the drivers fit ok.
 


Also I noticed it appears you installed a green oring on the park rod guide.... The only green oring that comes in the kit is for the input shaft so make sure you use it on the input shaft as that oring is meant for use there.
 
Here is the bushing driver set I bought. It seems to have everything covered. I have another set that leaves off where this bushing driver set picks up at, so I think I have the full range covered. I have yet to use it though. Ive been a little nervous about driving the bushings out and then getting them set back into the same spot. I dont know how important depth of the bushing are or if there are any that are really critical, but I will be measuring as much as possible.

IMG_0114.jpg
 
The 39.5mm driver is just a size up from where my other set leaves off so Im hoping I have it all covered, but only time will tell. Oh, and I picked this up at Harbor Freight. I think I paid like $40 for it maybe, might have been $30. I did a test fit on the 39.5mm driver and it fit like a champ but I have yet to actually drive out a bushing with it.
 
I hate those needle bearings. I had to replace mine in the side cover that the CV shaft rides on. The old one was still ok, but the side of the race had a big nick taken out of it and I figured better replace it now, than have a needle catch it and toast the whole thing later down the road.

~F~
 
I looked through my new transtar rebuild kit and that green o-ring was the only size remotely close to the orignal size. I'll take it off, and I might have to reuse the old one.

I have the same harbor freights bearing/race installer and it doesn't fit exactly. I'm going to take a bench grinder to it which should make it fit. When I removed the bushings, it is very easy to see where exactly they were pressed in as the metal is a darker color which can be seen from my pics.

It sure would be alot easier having a diagram of where each o-ring goes or have them in seperate bags.





 


SyntheticShield said:
The 39.5mm driver is just a size up from where my other set leaves off so Im hoping I have it all covered, but only time will tell. Oh, and I picked this up at Harbor Freight. I think I paid like $40 for it maybe, might have been $30. I did a test fit on the 39.5mm driver and it fit like a champ but I have yet to actually drive out a bushing with it.
Click to expand...

Do you have a part number for the driver set from Harbor Freight?

Trannyman is correct, the green o-ring goes on the end of the input shaft. Comparing seals can be pretty frustrating as there are so many, but I have found that there is only 1 replacement for each seal IIRC.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top