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Do you have to drop the subframe?

pur3vil

pur3vil

New member
Well its not an axel, it's something internal tranny doc said, I can't remember what he said, do I have to drop the subframe to pull the trans? Cause that's gonan be a pain.
 


RWD FTMFW, lol...

But yea, I'd just pull the motor/trans together and go from there as it seems to be easier. Some may disagree. Would also be an excellent time to check the entire motor for leaks, especially the rear cover (behind the flexplate) and the oil pan. If the pan gasket is leaking now would be the perfect time to replace it.

Also check the rack. If yours is getting leaky and worn that would also be the time to do it.
 
Tranny Doc looked at it this morning, said it's either a sprag or the chain slapping the case. Which absolutely sucks considering it shifts perfectly...

So I guess I will be looking for a tranny.
 
lIkely a sprag.

Typically I drop out the bottom. It's overall pretty easy, personally I think easier than out the top. No need to drain coolant, fight your way around the MC, or disturb the engine at all. Support and lower..

Plus I like to drop the sub first, then pull the axles, starter, etc etc. Makes it all very easy to get to. Put it all back together before putting the sub back up and it's done in record time.
 
I have no way of getting the body up off the subframe though, no lift, and I doubt seriously the rafters in the garage I'm working in will support the entire weght of the car, where as I might possibly be abel to get a cherry picker and or use the rafters to hoist the engine out..

And to whoever said it, yea RWD ftw, I can do a tranny in a Conquest in 45 minutes... I've timed myself...lol.... 14 bolts and they fall out.. bench press the 76lb tranny back in.. wa la..
 
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When I worked for GM, I use to just drop just one side of the sub frame enough for it to clear on the way out. The lift would support the cars frame, and I'd put a tripod screw jack under the sub frame, and just lower that down enough to get it out threw the one side. Never tried it at home, but if you got the front of the car's frame on jack stands, then lower one side of the sub frame with a hydraulic floor jack, I suppose that would work too. I think if I rebuild my transmission, I'm pulling threw the top at home, that way I could change some gaskets too. OH , and if it shifts perfect, i doubt it's a sprag. A bad sprag will play havoc on your shifts.
 
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pur3vil said:
And to whoever said it, yea RWD ftw, I can do a tranny in a Conquest in 45 minutes... I've timed myself...lol.... 14 bolts and they fall out.. bench press the 76lb tranny back in.. wa la..
Click to expand...

That is impressive. 76lbs, lol... I wish. My 4R70W's weigh in at about 150lbs. w/ an empty converter. Trans. jack makes it all better though ;)
 
I commonly do these transmissions in my home garage. No lift, no special anything except a floor jack. Jack and support the car, then a 4x4 to support the motor. Subframe can come out and then the trans.
 


Well Scott.. a standard floor jack will work well for you. It's not that high, just high enough to sneak the trans out through the wheel well once the splash shields etc are out of the way. I think someone measured once and they had the front of their bumper up around 22".

this is high enough
IMG_6965.jpg


IMG_6952.jpg


IMG_3440.jpg




And that 4x4 I mention (turbo car had lots of other stuff to support as well)
IMG_6941.jpg
 
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