• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

    6. NO FEELER THREADS. You are either selling it or you aren’t selling it.

    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Delete please

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yekimmrt

yekimmrt

New member
Replacing a leaking oil gasket on an 01 GTP, I'd like to swap over to the aluminum pan. I live in Raleigh NC, 27607.
 
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Re: WTB aluminum oil pan, pickup and bracket

you dont want it...stick with the steel pan, replace the gasket and rtv the gasket sealing bead all the way around on the pan side and at least the front and rear cover seams on the oil pan rail.

if your pan is dented/rusting get an aftermarket pan (GMP11b iirc)
they seem to not have as many ripples in the stamping as the OEM but id still rtv the full pan side...the block is pretty flat...
 
Re: WTB aluminum oil pan, pickup and bracket

Why do you say that? I'm really more interested in the ease of re installation and future work with the aluminum pan bracket. I guess I could just take the U bracket out and put the newer style bracket in.
 
Re: WTB aluminum oil pan, pickup and bracket

i dont see much of a good cost/benifit on it...from a performance standpoint the alum pan is a step backward as the windage tray is not nearly as good as the plastic gasket/windage tray used with the steel pans.

the motor mount brackets arent much different in terms of level of "PITA"

honestly if your fixing a leak id say save your money on that bugger and spend the time and $ to yank the motor and regasket the engine...lately ive found more than 50% of the rear block cover gaskets are leaking oil/coolant internally/externally and thats a potential death sentence...
 
Re: WTB aluminum oil pan, pickup and bracket

Hmm. I appreciate the input. I've read on here several people talk about that rear block cover. It's my DD though, and I don't have access to a lift or engine stand. You've given me some things to think about though.
 
Re: WTB aluminum oil pan, pickup and bracket

WHen it came time to fix the leaking oil pan gasket on my 2000 GTP, I chose the alum. pan over fixing the steel pan/ gasket design for several reasons, 1) the cost of the new pan/pickup/bracket was minimal over the cost of a new steel pan/gasket. 2) I did not want to deal with reinstalling the "u" bracket with my big hands, 3) the aluminum pan and RTV is a better sealing design than the overdesigned and underperforming plastic/rubber gasket the steel pan uses. 4) provides a nice place to put a jack if needed when working on engine, or engine mounts. One thing to note is that when finished installation a small steel tab on the sub frame may need to be removed.
 


Re: WTB aluminum oil pan, pickup and bracket

I know this is bordering on being in the wrong area now, but could you use the newer bracket with the steel oil pan?
 
Re: WTB aluminum oil pan, pickup and bracket

No, you cannot use the newer bracket with the steel pan due to the new bracket needing to bolt into the end of the oil pan.
Don't worry about the windage being inferior to the windage gasket for the steel pan... just clean the inside of the pan and seal the gap along the edges with some Permatex Ultra Black or Right Stuff.... just be sure to give the rtv a day or two to cure before you install it so it can bond to metal better.

I have an aluminum pan with correct pickup tube and correct lower bracket but you will need to supply the 3 bolts as I cannot find the ones I got with this.
I can do $80 shipped -most people sell the pan for $50-60 shipped but don't include the necessary (and expensive to buy new) pickup tube or the lower motor mount bracket.
I will have it pressure washed so at most you will have only some very slight old rtv or other light clean up to do when you get it.
PM or text me with any further questions.
320-290-1217
 
Re: WTB aluminum oil pan, pickup and bracket

Awesome. Except....last night I got in there and took my wheel and fender well guard off to scope out the job, and found my motor mount squished and gooey as well as my LCA ball socket bushing(s....both sides) slam wore out. I'm afraid that kills my "nice to have" oil pan budget. Sorry for the change, but money decided for me... I'm leaning towards pulling the engine now, I'll start a thread with pics when I do. Thanks again!
 


Just realized I have a really low mile lower motor mount that I could include for $10... factory GM with under 10k miles.
 
Way to sweeten the pot...I've already got the "solid" one on order from Rock Auto though, along with some plugs, wires, and moog LCA's. I'll def keep you in mind in the future though, I appreciate the response.
 
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