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Cylinder Head Casting Numbers ?

i would get new seals, then a spring compressor, and a tube of lapping compound, lap the valves, then install new seals, clean up the mating surfaces and bolt that f er back on.
 


Hey guys - if I pull the head from the salvage yard, should I pull the rear head or the front head ? Are they both the same ? I'm thinking it might be chicken chit to pull the front head. I'm already disappointed in myself enough as it is.
 


I'm thinking it might be a good idea to pull the rear head anyway; that way if there's any surprises, it'll be at the salvage yard instead of at home.
 
I got a head out of the salvage yard. One of the head bolts won't come out because the exhaust manifold stud is blocking its way out. There's two of those studs on the exhaust side of the head that stick up past the surface by 36mm. I don't know what the total length is, but I wish I had the size specs and a GM part number. The stud is going to need to be replaced because the head bolt was rubbing on it during removal. You guys know of a source to get those studs from ?

DSCN2627_zpsapabxwoq.jpg
 
Scottydoggs - what if I needed to replace it; where do they come from ?

I don't want aftermarket. I want real GM with the hex on the end.
 


it should come out. if not take one from your old head.

napa also sells stud kits. take a bolt in and match it up. studs and nuts work much better really.
 
GM buys from various suppliers, the same way auto part stores do. It just won't say AC Delco on the bag you buy.

I always find OEM style bolt/stud kits from Napa, they are perfectly fine.

I suggest heating those ****ers up before you try to remove them too, makes them come out like butter without a chance of rounding the hex head.
 
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