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Currently Running 3.4 Pulley - Want to go 3.3

Spaceghost

Spaceghost

New member
So my mods are the following:

2004 L32 Short Block with L67 Lower Intake Manifold and Gen III M90
Self Ported Lower Intake Manifold
Self Ported and polished supercharger. Inlet Ported to 75mm.
ZZ Performance Improved Supercharger Coupler
Thrasher 3.4” Press On
W-Body Store 75mm Cadillac Northstar Throttle Body
W-Body Store 85mm LQ4 Mass Air Flow Unit
JMB Cold Air Intake 4” Diameter
K&N 4” X 7” Cone Filter in Fenderwell
ZZ Performance Modified 1.9 Ratio Rocker Arms
ZZ Performance Stainless Steel Long Tube Headers
ZZ Performance 3” Downpipe with U-Bend Delete
Magnaflow Catalytic Converter
Borla Stainless Steel Exhaust
ZZ Performance O2 Simulator at Cat
Digital Horsepower v1.0 PCM
ZZ Performance Shift Kit Switch & Wire
Hydrostat 180 Degree Thermostat
Smoothflow Underdrive Water Pump Pulley
Autolite 103 and 104 Colder Plugs
Custom Tuning Performed by Dave Richie, Lititz, PA
W Body Store Poly Motor Mounts

I will be changing over to a higher flow fuel filter and going with either AL 103 or NGK TR8 plugs. PRJ Wires and I only run 93 octane.

Can I change my 3.4 over to a 3.3 without creating a ton of knock?
 


Im sure everyone is going to tell you the only way to truley know is try and then scan. Every car is different. If you have no issues now the best thing to do is give it a whirl. However, if you have ANY knock now I wouldnt even attempt it
 
Hmm....I did get 2-3 degrees of knock before the ported blower, ported LIM, Upper Poly MM's, and UD H2O pulley not that the pulley would reduce any knock.
 
For the gains, which won't be noticiable really...a tenth of an inch isn't worth it. I'd also...at this point tell you...why haven't you bought a modular pulley system? Press-on's are weaksauce ;)

Just get it tuned for more timing.

More timing lower/boost is faster than lower timing/high boost...

Another thing...sell that JMB and toss an open cone on the end of the LQ4 MAF sensor...and put some AL104's in your car...103's are way too cold...you want the hottest spark possible, not the coldest.
 
Right now I have 104's in the car. I was just reading that ZZP prefers 103's so i though about giving them a whirl. I kept the press on because I thought I wanted a 3.4 setup when I changed out the 3.8. Now, I feel like i want to go smaller but I hear ya. Maybe I should look into more timing instead.
 


Click the link in my signature if you haven't.

ZZP is FULL of misinformation, old...outdated stuff that isn't the correct path to take, nor gives the best explanation possible for your car.
 
You are perfectly set up for a ssic. I know most will say go full size, but if you're content with nothing smaller than a 3.2 than a ssic is for you. I went from a 3.4 to 3.25 with one and am currently kr free. With your mods u might be able to get away with a 3.1, wouldn't hurt to try. If u have a scanner that is.
 
I would probably hurt to try...since most factory injectors run static at a 3.2"...also...we will say that an SSIC is a waste because it really is.

For not much more money...he could get a full size core...and snag up some 42.5lb. injectors and run a 2.6/2.8.

Which is what I would do...I wouldn't waste my time with an SSIC, IMO.
 


To go 1/10" smaller will not make any difference really.

And with going Intercooled, whether Full size or Short stack, you will have to tune for it to be beneficial ultimately.

Lastly, Full size's can be had for the cost of SSIC these days anyways, so if you do decide to do it, take that into consideration.

And one more though, with added power, you really have to consider what condition your tranny will be in. Most say that 300whp mark is the point where a completely stock tranny will begin to show its weak points.
 
CBWhite said:
What do u mean "you wouldn't waste your time on a ssic." I'm not talking to u asshole, i'm talking to him. I'm giving him advice not you. So stfu. Just becausec u have a full size and it works perfectly BIG DEAL! A fullsize intercooler is not for everyone. So stfu! A 2.6 0r 2.8? What! Most people don't want to run anything anywhere near that small a pulley. Everyone doesn't see things the way u do.
Click to expand...


Berating a mod is a horrible idea first off....
Second he is giving this guy his .02... he was telling him he could pretty much get a better IC for the same cost.. I dont see where he was doing antything bad. Getting opinions is what this guy asked for and he was giving his opinion to attack him based on this is just silly....
 
Keep it clean guys. My question is whether with my current mods could I drop to a 3.3 and tune using HP Tuners to reduce knock and increase timing. That's the opinion I am asking for. Thanks all.
 
yes you can drop but you are better off keeping a bigger pully with more timing and no knock the a smaller pully with less timing if u wanna drop pully save your money and buy a ic keep your eye on the classifieds u can find them cheap then drop to a 3.2 or upgrade your injectors and run a 3.0 just my 0.02
 


How about this. Lower timing on a 3.2 pulley instead of a 3.3 without an IC or a cam?? It's been done. There are quite a few cars that I know of that run a 3.2 without either and claim low to no KR.
 
Many tuners have found that you get more power from timing than boost. Therefore typically it's viewed that staying with a larger pulley to keep the cylinder and air charge temps down with higher timing works better.

Pulley envy is simply that. As is boost pressure. High boost numbers only means that ther is a restriction between the blower and the tail pipes. In your case the biggest restriction would be the ability to process flow through the heads. Boost is read from the LIM. The higher the number, the more pressure is built up and being held in the LIM.
 
thank you bill


BillBoost37 said:
Many tuners have found that you get more power from timing than boost. Therefore typically it's viewed that staying with a larger pulley to keep the cylinder and air charge temps down with higher timing works better.

Pulley envy is simply that. As is boost pressure. High boost numbers only means that ther is a restriction between the blower and the tail pipes. In your case the biggest restriction would be the ability to process flow through the heads. Boost is read from the LIM. The higher the number, the more pressure is built up and being held in the LIM.
Click to expand...
 
Spaceghost said:
How about this. Lower timing on a 3.2 pulley instead of a 3.3 without an IC or a cam?? It's been done. There are quite a few cars that I know of that run a 3.2 without either and claim low to no KR.
Click to expand...

Probably because they are running stock 16*....if not lower than stock to get away with a smaller pulley...or pig rich to prevent the knock. I'd like to see those bin files.

There are also side effects of lower timing...higher EGT's being the main one, higher EGT's, higher temps in the motor from more boost on the smaller pulley = not a happy 3800 ;)

I'd honestly...like I said before...keep the 3.4"...and timing the crap out of it...see how much you can get away with. I'd bet it would run like a raped ape on 20-22*
 
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