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Crimping Large Wires

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m0ng00se

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So after running my power and RCA wires today for my new system, i have come to a stand still trying to figure out how to crimp these wires!

The wires are 4 gauge, and all my wire crimpers/stripeprs stop at 8 or 10 gauge, and i havent seen any in stores either.

What does everyone use to crimp their wires? Vice grips? C clamps?

Looking for something professional(ish) and efficient, no hammers please :)
 


4 gauge is gettin up there, still might be able to do it with a pair of crimpers, the good ones you buy at home depot, they are klein, for electricians (used to be one lol) or i used to use a hydraulic crimper, but i know you wont have access to one it was a $3000 tool
 
if you know any electricians they might have access to a larger crimper for something you need crimped or before you install the wiring take the cable and connectors to a shop and they would prob. do it for nothing.
idk....call around to some different electrical shops and see what they say.
You don't want to buy the tool for a couple of crimps unless you are going to do a sh*tload of crimps.
We crimp ground lugs on #6 ground wire all the time and you would need a crimp tool at least that big and that crimper is the same size as large bolt cutters.
 
I always crimp my connections and then solder them as well. If you don't have a big enough crimping tool

You can take a metal punch and hammer the punch into the metal connector (once wire is inserted into connector) which will put a dimple in the metal which will preven the wire from sliding out. Then you can use a blow torch (mini or big one) and heat the connection up and then insert solder into the connector. The solder will want to flow to the end of the wire because of the capillary action going on.

When we built my dads plane, we rented a electrical crimper that could crimp huge wires. Then every crimped connection was soldered which will cut down on resistance as well as offer a security net from the connection from ever breaking loose.
 
I always crimp my connections and then solder them as well. If you don't have a big enough crimping tool

You can take a metal punch and hammer the punch into the metal connector (once wire is inserted into connector) which will put a dimple in the metal which will preven the wire from sliding out. Then you can use a blow torch (mini or big one) and heat the connection up and then insert solder into the connector. The solder will want to flow to the end of the wire because of the capillary action going on.

When we built my dads plane, we rented a electrical crimper that could crimp huge wires. Then every crimped connection was soldered which will cut down on resistance as well as offer a security net from the connection from ever breaking loose.

That would work, since we are not dealing with a high voltage here, 14.5-14.8 at the very highest normally.
In electrical applications soldering connectors is unacceptable......in this application there should be no problem.
I wouldn't want you to burn your house down due to a electrical fire.
 


That would work, since we are not dealing with a high voltage here, 14.5-14.8 at the very highest normally.
In electrical applications soldering connectors is unacceptable......in this application there should be no problem.
I wouldn't want you to burn your house down due to a electrical fire.

yeah I knew that, aviation and automobiles use low voltage systems so thats why I recommended it. I know my dad re-wired his sailboat and we did the same thing since the boat is on 24 volts
 
soldering is the best connection period in automotive applications

As far as best connection? Welding lol, thats what i used to do SUBSTATION WORK. The bus was 1/2" aluminum and welded the cross ties, as far as the flexible lead connections, had lugs crimped on both ends, with a 60 ton crimper. Then it was bolted to the bus with four 1/2" bolts
 
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