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Crank but no start.. Help!

GTP89

GTP89

New member
Hey guys I recently bought another gtp off a guy that didn't use it anymore has a gen v stock pulley, SD Headers, Taylor wires and a 180t stat I believe, he stopped using it due to it having a starting problem and got himself a 370, I towed it home did some quick diagnosing came up with a dead icm changed it and started right up, drove it for short runs maybe 5 miles and did some practice burn outs with it at my dads place and ran fine no issues, let it sit without a battery for about 3 days or so, since I wanted to replace the window regulators, I wanted to drive it home about 15 miles, I started her up like always first crank and turns over fine took her out and parked it before I left waiting for my dad and as I am ready to leave I try starting her up again with no success took many many tries before I did and the idle was weird. I couldn't go WOT or it would die, I couldn't go past about a quarter or so of the throttle or step on it. My service engine light came on but my battery has a weird issue and doesn't make great contact at times and it erased it before I got the chance to scan it. I got stuck on the side of the road cranked her up again and started disconnecting my MAF, TPS, IAC, they all had a reaction to it only one that didn't was the IAC does that mean that sensor is bad and what could be causing the problem? I want to drive it back tomorrow to get the tints done on it. Any help is appreciated guys.
 


It is fine now, and that is the battery I had in it all other times just for whatever reason the actual post is loose inside but the car cranks fine, everything powers up just no start.
 
check the shrader valve on the fuel rail for gas, take the cap off it looks like a large tire air stem valve, lay a rag over it, then push the poin in with a screw driver, if theres gas in the rail it will shoot out. no gas and the pump is dead or depending on the year of the car (97-00) you can bypass the high speed relay. if this works the fuel pump resistor is blown.




relays.jpg


if you find you have fuel in the rails, next step is spark, take a plug wire off a col, then prop the plug wire a inch over the coil, then crank it, if you see a spark jump to the wire, at least you know its got spark.
 
if the post is still loose fix that, it makes a difference. wrap tin foil around the threads of the bolt to make it tighter, dont go to tight or it will strip out again like it is now.
 
Thanks for the help Scottydoggs indeed it is the fuel pump, I checked the spark first disconnected it one by one they all gave. What I find weird is how it only worked when it wanted too I mean is that how they usually give out?
 


Funny thing.....I had the same similar problems with my 01 GTP but instead of it being the ICM or my fuel pump it was my darn crankshaft sensor....and I had to go worlds strongest man on it just to POP the case of to change it.

Ya gotta love these darn things!.... Hence the sarcasm.
 
fuel pumps are like that. you can try banging on the bottom of the gas tank, sometimes that will make it come back to life, but its a temp fix if it works again, dont trust it.

best part is theres a trap door in the trunk to get to the pump. beats dropping the tank.

you can also just change the pump, not the whole sending unit, pumps alone are in the 30 to 40 dollar range, where the whole set up is over a 100 or more for a good brand.

for the pump, use a name brand, not some cheap china made crap.
 
speed demon said:
Funny thing.....I had the same similar problems with my 01 GTP but instead of it being the ICM or my fuel pump it was my darn crankshaft sensor....and I had to go worlds strongest man on it just to POP the case of to change it.

Ya gotta love these darn things!.... Hence the sarcasm.
Click to expand...

Haha right I was just scratching my head thinking it can't be that I mean I tested the pressure that day and everything was good and sure enough it isn't sending it now. Lol
 
Scottydoggs said:
fuel pumps are like that. you can try banging on the bottom of the gas tank, sometimes that will make it come back to life, but its a temp fix if it works again, dont trust it.

best part is theres a trap door in the trunk to get to the pump. beats dropping the tank.

you can also just change the pump, not the whole sending unit, pumps alone are in the 30 to 40 dollar range, where the whole set up is over a 100 or more for a good brand.

for the pump, use a name brand, not some cheap china made crap.
Click to expand...


So 30-40 at a autozone? I know it is just the actual pump which I am ok with. Do you know the part number? Want to try and get one today if possible.
 
dont think the local parts store chains carry it, ive found them on line tho.

i had a mom and pop type place here that could look it up, and get it same day. did that in my last truck when the pump went bad. beats $300 ( what my trucks cost) any day.
 


I had a pump in a 3800 99 Monte z34 that would work great all day long in cool weather but as soon as summer heat hit it would heat up enough to slowly lose pressure and shut down after it was heat soaked and stall the car out but start back up after some cooling time.
Took me some time to figure out this mystery...lol
Went through ignition, changed MAF and crank sensor before I finally left a fuel pressure gauge hooked up while driving and figured out what the issue was.
 
231FUN said:
I had a pump in a 3800 99 Monte z34 that would work great all day long in cool weather but as soon as summer heat hit it would heat up enough to slowly lose pressure and shut down after it was heat soaked and stall the car out but start back up after some cooling time.
Took me some time to figure out this mystery...lol
Went through ignition, changed MAF and crank sensor before I finally left a fuel pressure gauge hooked up while driving and figured out what the issue was.
Click to expand...

Haha yeah man these things are a headache keep you guessing and wondering.
 
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