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Couple questions on headers

SaukRapids

I can't car too good.
Noob issue. It's probably been asked, tried search. Headers are a priority this summer. I've narrowed it between two in very different price ranges, TOG's and SD. My application isn't planned to be extreme, but who knows. If a list is helpful, I'd like: YT 1.9's, DIY intake found here, and stock exhaust that needs a resonator from rust. Possibly drop pulleys to 3.2" eventually, but that's it.

TOG's need to be welded after the flex, and I don't know how to weld. That put's me out at the shop. Not a huge deal, but TOG's are expensive. Are they too costly and overkill for just clearing up stock KR and maybe going down to a 3.4" with a tune when I decide to pull and inspect the nose drive?

SD's look okay, and people say they hold up. I'm not too into the slip joints, but I wouldn't have an issue getting them welded either. What's up with these lately? I've read all over that they fit or won't fit since showing up on eBay. Have fitment issues been resolved on the 02 sensor? I'd rather not hear any clicking noise described. Would that need a replacement flexpipe right away to avoid having to go back and take it apart?

The cost is obviously a concern. I'd like to thank squiggles (I think) for this - "If you're sticking with stock exhaust I recommend SLP or the speed daddy one."

Thanks.
 


You may or may not have to pound the firewall to make the O2 fit. And yes, sometimes the crossover pipe will not line up. You will need to bend it and loosen everything and get it close as possible and force it togther. TOG's are so expensive just stick with the SD setup.

And I mean really, are you gonna spend the same amount of money on a single header than for a whole setup? And TOG's look like something I could make...
 
And I mean really, are you gonna spend the same amount of money on a single header than for a whole setup? And TOG's look like something I could make...
Thanks for that. It's a huge help, and I appreciate it. I was wondering how much the extra cost went toward quality and fitment vs "the first to put a 3800 into the 11's."

I don't see much difference in material. Any other input would be helpful.
 
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The difference is the quality.

I ran SD style for years along with a few locals....we used to joke that every 3k miles we would change oil and fix exhaust leaks.

I never had a problem with the crossover slip fit connections. It was almost always the flex pipe or a connection in the downpipe. I ran the original flex for awhile before it tore. Then I cut it out, removed the gooseneck from the dp, and installed an interlocking flex. I think I tore 2 of those before I installed a second interlocking flex, which seemed to take care of the problems. But after all I spent, I could have bought a brand new set of togs or zzp's and not had any problems.

If you can't weld, I would heavily recommend waiting for a used set of togs to pop up.
 
I had to fight my crossover with the SDs. The down pipe kinda sucks and looks weird hanging down. I however have not had any issues with the flex but I do have another sitting here waiting to be tigged on when it does go. I had no issues with the 02 sensor hitting.
 
..after all I spent, I could have bought a brand new set of togs or zzp's and not had any problems.

That's exactly where I'm at with the whole thing; Do I spend more now and not be in there a bunch while it sits, or do I go the budget route?

I'd rather avoid downtime with my lack of welding skill. The TOG's are more expensive, but need welding after the flex anyway right? Is the included flex going to be an issue? I shoulda said it's an 05 Comp G for my 02 sensor, and I'd relocate vs bashing the tunnel.

Thanks again.
 


I've had no issues with leaks or anything in almost 2 years with my sd's. For the price, they have to be the best headers I've ever had on a car.

Oh and since you have an 05, you won't be able to go that low on pulley size even with the yt rockers. You would be lucky to get knock free with a good tune on a 3.6 or 3.5 at the lowest with headers. Add the yt and you might get to a 3.4 knock free.
 
SD s***. They are cheaper up front but they cost more blood sweat time and money eventually.

I hate on ZZP but I run there headers.
 
I had slp and I've had togs.

Slp are slip fit, sd's are a knock off sorta. I bought them used and had some exhaust leaks on the crossover nut eventually got it sealed up.

Got a great deal on some used togs and I could never get the donut gasket to seal on the crossover and just ran with leaks.

Both preformed fine, I change a lot of other stuff when I went to togs so I couldn't tell you a difference in power.

If I got headers it will be slp's if I can find them otherwise I'd get sd's and have the downpipe and flex fixed right away so I wouldn't have to worry about it in a month. Togs aren't needed for the price you for what you want to do. I ran slp with a top swap, 1.9s, 3.2, and intercooler and no issues


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I was pretty much thinking intercooler to go that small. Thanks for the words of caution on it.

I had a random technologies dp before, so I'm familiar with replacing donuts. I got sick of the edge in there chewing em up, smoothed it and still had leaks from movement. If donuts are an issue with TOGs..

A pm to another member suggested that to use SD's, get two flex sections and some tubing to get rid of the gooseneck. I haven't seen the "goofy looking" gooseneck, but I'd imagine it'll be very apparent, especially if it hits the ground. Projected cost was about $375 over the headers to have them set up with no issues. Even giving myself room for cost in labor, that'd be cheaper than just getting (new) TOGs here.

That being said, if the SLP's go together any better than the clones, I'd take a look a the cost of a trouble free solution there as well.

Much appreciated.
 


http://speed-daddy.com/stainless-ss...r-exhaust-grand-prix-gtp-regal-impala-3-8l-v6 looks like they did away with the goose neck a per this sd link. hard to tell with the pics tho.


top left part/pipe in the bag is the goose neck in the down pipe.


15728068_large.jpg


you can get a new dual wall flex for 20, another V band camp for 20 off ebay, a high flow cat off ebay for 50 shipped. cut the old flex off, cut its 1/2 of its band clamp off the old flex, then add the new band clamp and the 1/2 you cut off the old flex to the new flex, now you can just un clamp the flex down the road if it needs to be replaced.

the goose neck is not really in the way of hitting the ground, i used a 6 inch flex and it lifted it up some. before i changed the flex out it only hit one time and i went and hit the tallest speed bump i could find and went over it dead straight, it tapped the bump. if i went over it at a angle nothing touched.

im on a 3.2 ic top swap set up kr free, with tuning of course. and still got the goose neck in my headers. its not hurting anything in my book.
 
Try to find a local vocational school and see if the class can weld the pipe for, typically they are cheaper. Probably won't be the prettiest weld but it will work.
 
vocational school should be free as long as you supply all parts needed. teacher instructs them the whole time.

dont expect same day service, it may take a few days till they can get to it.
 
Kinda forgot about them. I know they do both gas engines and OTR diesel here. The paint on mine's all ..how it is anyway. I mean what are they gonna do, scratch up the scratches? I'm kinda looking forward to headers now though.

At least now I kinda know the direction to go. I'll be keeping an eye on the for sale section too. (wish I could swing that HPT that just showed up, lol)

Thanks for all the suggestions and input so far. I got a bit of time to gather more info. Anything else is still helpful.
 
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