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Couple audio questions?

J

Joseph27705

New member
I am looking into getting a few new audio items and do not have a huge budget sadly :/
I have a 2004 Grand prix, not sure what it is as far as gtp and all, would like to know what it is if you can let me know the differences :D
I am looking for the following that are decent/good for cheap!
tweeters? not sure if i really need them but I love music and i love having my music clear!
Crossover, i would like to get one if i do get some tweeters
front speakers? not sure what the size is, i already have the rear speakers installed
I believe i should install a capacitor, but not sure, i am running 2 sony xplod 600w 4 channel amps, 1 powering back speakers and a 12" subwoofer, the other is powering just a subwoofer, when i get done 1 will be running all 4 speakers, and the other will run both subwoofers, I am in the process of building a custom ported box for my 2 12" woofers. I will be posting some pics soon in the forum
I also have a grounding question, i had really bad dimming issues so i did a big 3 upgrade in hopes it would help, only thing it helped is that my lows seem to have gotten better lol
I am not sure what i have it grounded to in the trunk, it is right behind the back seats under the trunk carpet. not sure if a capacitor would help, i have heard it is just covering up the bigger issue, I have also heard that bad grounds can be the issue so I am wondering where the best place to ground the amplifiers is. I have them mounted to the back of the seat and I can move them if need be. I plan on making some kind of rack for them once i get my enclosure done but need to know where is best to ground before i can get a design done for that location. If anyone could help I would greatly appretiate it! I have been reffering to these forums for all of my issues and can usually find an answer but couldnt find much on these topics. Thank you all and take care :)
 


2 bad things stand out...... DONT use cap! And the sony stuff is a waste of money... If u already have just use it i guess...
 
Best place for a ground is to drill a new hole somewhere in the trunk, and sand around the hole. Make sure you have a metal connector on the end of the wire, not hust bare wire as its more prone to oxidation. Never use an existing bolt on the car as 99% of the time the surface is painted underneath. Caps can help with the dimming of the lights as they store powere in themselves and have the amp draw from them instead of putting more stress on the alternator/battery. If a cap is used, I wouldn't go less than a 1.5 farad, and that's really pushing it, but decent for budget builds. Stay away from low-end amplifiers as they tend to give off more heat in place or sound production. Ensure that you have the appropriate guage wire and distribution blocks to support the power and ground.
 
Undercrazed said:
Best place for a ground is to drill a new hole somewhere in the trunk, and sand around the hole. Make sure you have a metal connector on the end of the wire, not hust bare wire as its more prone to oxidation. Never use an existing bolt on the car as 99% of the time the surface is painted underneath. Caps can help with the dimming of the lights as they store powere in themselves and have the amp draw from them instead of putting more stress on the alternator/battery. If a cap is used, I wouldn't go less than a 1.5 farad, and that's really pushing it, but decent for budget builds. Stay away from low-end amplifiers as they tend to give off more heat in place or sound production. Ensure that you have the appropriate guage wire and distribution blocks to support the power and ground.
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Thank you, I have gotten the dimming fixed with a new batt and alternator, as far as the ground I will drill a new hole, not sure what it is grounded too but I will definitely get a new ground location, do i need to get some kind of sealant for the hole to reduce the chance of rust?
 
Depending on what you use to ground it with you can use a number of things. Silicon can be your friend when sealing things. If you use a bolt with a nut, teflon tape can help a lot as well. Put the tape on the threads of the bolt, and a small bead of silicon on the nut. If it's going to be permanent, I would have the nut on the outside and have a friend help you out with holding one end in place. A lock washer is essential so the vibration doesn't loosen the nut. I don't recommend using a screw in any way to ground the amp, it would be just a horrible connection and just cause all kinds of problems. With high-end amplifiers, you must, and I'll repeat, MUST have a PERFECT ground. The reason is the amp is in demand of a ground, and higher quality want it more than others. I have seen amps fry head units because the amp searched for a ground through the rca inputs. I haven't noticed anything about the cheap ones, but I'm sure it's just as likely to happen. Anything else, lemme know. I love audio.
 


Joseph27705 said:
on a budget sony does really well, I was pretty surprised at how good it actually is.
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Sony is definitely NOT budget stuff!! Lmao! More like bottom of the barrel.... Tho in the late 90's they made a couple high end sq amps and had a couple few nice decks... But know days is no where even close!
 
tc300 said:
Sony is definitely NOT budget stuff!! Lmao! More like bottom of the barrel.... Tho in the late 90's they made a couple high end sq amps and had a couple few nice decks... But know days is no where even close!
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I will agree with that, and also disagree. If everything in the car is sony and properly matched, it will produce nice, clear sound. When you mix-n-match equipment is when you lose sound quality. I do agree at the fact that their latest products are really lacking in the performance department. Sony, however, is still great in home theatre, but imo they should have just stuck with home equipment from the start.
 
1. I'd suggest getting a class d monoblock for the subs,

2. Strut tower bolts are good places to ground just make sure the paint under the bolt is removed.


Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2
 
DrSnazzy said:
1. I'd suggest getting a class d monoblock for the subs,

2. Strut tower bolts are good places to ground just make sure the paint under the bolt is removed.


Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2
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I agree with that, however, its hard to find those monoblocks at a budget price. Those amplifiers are some high-end pieces of equipment. For budget, a dual channel would work fine bridged. But if the subs don't match right, bridging can cause a lot of heat with those cheapies and send the amp in protection if its equipped with it. Also, the strut tower bolts are a good place if you remove the paint underneath and add a washer to add better connection.
 
Undercrazed said:
I agree with that, however, its hard to find those monoblocks at a budget price. Those amplifiers are some high-end pieces of equipment. For budget, a dual channel would work fine bridged. But if the subs don't match right, bridging can cause a lot of heat with those cheapies and send the amp in protection if its equipped with it. Also, the strut tower bolts are a good place if you remove the paint underneath and add a washer to add better connection.
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Not quite...and not to be rude either but Class D rules the cost per watt ratio unless you're looking at full range class D amplifiers. Typically Class A powered amplifiers are the end all. For full range, Class A/B is where the masses look and to keep costs down, Class D is utilized for anything playing below ~500mhz since the benefits of an A/B design effect mid-range moreso than mid-bass or sub frequencies. It's also because Class D is more efficient so it's easier to design and produce more power with less heat constraints and ultimately smaller products.

Almost all audio circuits and design are the same for the last 30+ years except for the recent introduction of full range class D. What you're paying for these days are quality of components, brand name, and the costs of packaing/marketing/etc before it gets to your door.

The mechanics of your install is what decides the "sound" and characteristics of your setup. Subwoofer?....go class D on a budget :>

https://www.google.com/search?q=class+d+amplifier&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=fflb#q=class+d+amplifier&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=srd&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=fflb&prmd=imvns&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ei=aIzsT5ukKu306AHNxp3wBQ&ved=0CFEQ_AUoBQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=3e94936e9ccbb820&biw=1680&bih=985
 


I800C0LLECT said:
Not quite...and not to be rude either but Class D rules the cost per watt ratio unless you're looking at full range class D amplifiers. Typically Class A powered amplifiers are the end all. For full range, Class A/B is where the masses look and to keep costs down, Class D is utilized for anything playing below ~500mhz since the benefits of an A/B design effect mid-range moreso than mid-bass or sub frequencies. It's also because Class D is more efficient so it's easier to design and produce more power with less heat constraints and ultimately smaller products.

Almost all audio circuits and design are the same for the last 30+ years except for the recent introduction of full range class D. What you're paying for these days are quality of components, brand name, and the costs of packaing/marketing/etc before it gets to your door.

The mechanics of your install is what decides the "sound" and characteristics of your setup. Subwoofer?....go class D on a budget :>

https://www.google.com/search?q=cla....,cf.osb&fp=3e94936e9ccbb820&biw=1680&bih=985
Click to expand...

Thank you for the link, I will be getting one when i get some extra cash!
 
Undercrazed said:
I will agree with that, and also disagree. If everything in the car is sony and properly matched, it will produce nice, clear sound. When you mix-n-match equipment is when you lose sound quality. I do agree at the fact that their latest products are really lacking in the performance department. Sony, however, is still great in home theatre, but imo they should have just stuck with home equipment from the start.
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As far as Sony goes, the way they are set up sounds really good, I am constantly messing around with them finding new ways to wire and set up for best sound quality! The whole budget bit was going off a friends suggestions for budget, they were $30 a piece from him so i snatched them up! So yes that is a budget amp if i do say so myself, I would not go and buy them new!
 


banadictaustin said:
But this particular thing also depends upon the price as you may not get a good quality music system with multiple options for your car at an affordable rate. Quality indeed is one thing but sometimes its proportional to the price.
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Like jl audio and critical mass.. There shiit is waaayyyy over priced!! Better can be had for same price and even less..

There's a lot of great "bang for your buck" stuff out there
E
 
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