• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Coolant elbow is stuck

A

ajoliver2010

New member
I have the 97 gp se and im finally changing these elbows. My problem is that the bottom elbow is some kind of metal or cast and the top was plastic. I brought the new elbows from autozone but how the hell can i get this cast elbow off? Or is it suppose to stay on?? Plz help me! Its getting dark soon :/
 


what you do is clean that metal elbow up, remove the o ring toss it. then steal the o ring off the new unused plastic elbow and put it on the metal elbow. oil it and slide it in the hole.
 
your only going to use the new upper, the lower cast one stays on the alt bracket.

just make sure the holes are good and clean and it should all be ok.

and yes, its the o ring that fails on the lower cast elbow. mine leaked as well. i take my oil dip stick out, wipe the stick on my fingers, then wipe the oil on the o ring, its all you really need, a dab of lube.
 
the cast elbow at the bottom and you saying its a 97 means its the horizontal bolt alternator bracket with the integral lower wlbow....these snap off all the time so be very carefull but youll have to remove the alternator and 3 15mm hex head bolts from the tensioner bracket and very carefully wiggle/pry it out without snapping it off inside the timing cover.

if you do snap it off the alt bracket becomes junk. for a new one id shy away from a direct replacment and get the tensioner bracket from a 99 3800 Fbody as its a horizontal bolt bracket but with the bottom machined to use both elbows so youll never have a junk bracket again....

i use AGS Silgyde silicone grease
 
Thanks guys for the input. So far no leaks and i have great heat from the vents now. Now i have a p0171 code popping up. The hose on the passenger side cracked again. Plus when i was changing the t-stat...i kinda cracked the t part next to the throttle body. Its not that big of a crack at all but can that be the reason the engine light stays on??
 


your gonna need to get some new vac lines and patch up the broken lines. you got a vac leak for sure with that code.

you can rig almost any part of the vac lines with new soft lines, it costs like a buck a foot.
 
You think Autozone will have that t hose next to the throttle body?? Its just a small crack. Damn i gotta learn how to upload pics on here lol
 
i didn't name this thread lol http://www.grandprixforums.net/showthread.php?t=73960


you broke the evap line by the t stat that splits into two hoses right? you should be able to pull it off its nipple, put a fat vac line on it, then push a smaller line inside the fat line, then put the T or Y in the small tube, then a short piece of vac line off the 2 T ends and push the stock hard line inside the new vac line to the T.


advance has the best Tee's i could find local. 2 t's for 2 bucks. vac line is dirt cheap. pep boys and auto zone only had this huge T for 3 bucks that sucked so bad.

advance has Y type T's too


line inside a line to a hard line. hos i fixed my evap hose.

vachose.jpg
 
Scottydoggs you are a lifesaver...and the upload pics was funny lol. I cant get to it now but it will get done eventually. Keep an eye on this thread. Thanks !!
 


You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top