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Constant Electrical Drain Running Down The Battery

falcongt

falcongt

New member
I have searched the forum and have read about removing the ignition switch but not sure if that is what I need to do. I am still very confused about the symptoms and fixes.

Symptoms:
1) Buzzer goes off every time you open driver side door (even with key removed and lights turned off)
2) Cant see a difference when I turn lights on or off (seems like day running lights and night driving lights are the same but this is only an observation from sitting inside the car).
3) Cant get the key to go back one click past where the key is able to be removed (ACC position) even with pushing key in. When pushing it in it doesn't move inward.
4) Drove car last time Sunday and here it is Wednesday and the battery is completely dead. No lights come on at all.
5) Don't know if this has anything to do with it but have never seen any boost displayed on the DIC. I see the boost bar but never seen it light up in any way to indicate the amount of boost.
6) All dash lights go off when the key turns off and removed.
7) The HUD has not worked since I got the car last Saturday. The owner said that it did work but his battery died a few months back and when he replaced it the HUD didn't work any more.

Analysis:I know that I am only stating the obvious but it seems as though the car thinks the key is still on and there seems to be power still on and something draining power for some reason? I have no idea where to even start.

Any help is most appreciated. I hate electrical problems.:(
 


Thank God for Google

Parasitic Draw Test

1) Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.

2) Connect the black wire to the com input on the multimeter and the red wire to the 10A or 20A input on the multimeter. the meter needs to be able to read at least a 2 or 3 amps for this test to work. Connecting the red wire to the mA input on the multimeter won't work and could damage the meter.

3) Attach a multimeter(set the dial on the multimeter to measure Amps as per multimeters instructions) between the negative cable and the negative battery post. Wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode - i.e. when you make the contact with the ammeter, the cars computer systems "wake up". After a bit of time they will go back to "sleep".

4) If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power.

5) Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings)last. Perform the same steps for relays found in the fuse panel. Sometimes relay contacts can fail to release causing a drain. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse or relay.

6) Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.

7) Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.

8) Repeat steps 1&2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you exact numbers.

9) You can also try unhooking the big wire from your alternator. The alternator can sometimes have a shorted diode that can cause amps to flow through the alternator's power cable and through the shorted diode and into the case and through the bolts and back to the negative battery terminal. This will drain a battery in a hurry. Make sure to read the ammeter before and after unplugging your Alternator.
 
I used a zip tie to keep the key release pressed down located in the steering column. That will allow you to turn the ignition to off and eliminate and key removal issues that may be related to your problem. As for the boost, is your supercharger belt on?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note II
 
mrlogic1234 said:
I used a zip tie to keep the key release pressed down located in the steering column. That will allow you to turn the ignition to off and eliminate and key removal issues that may be related to your problem. As for the boost, is your supercharger belt on?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note II
Click to expand...
Really? Thats an insult. Im aware that I know less than most gear heads but wow I do have a MBA (Masters Business Administration) I have common sense, I am a country boy, and I am a disabled vet. So my point is give me some credit before insulting ...please.

Also I never said I had problems getting the key out, I said it seemed that when you turned off car and pulled key out even though the dash lights went out (normal) but when open door it chimes as if the keys were still in. Also the key will not push in, in order to go back a position for the accessory position.
 
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Whoa man no need to flash credentials... I had no way of knowing your level of education or any of that. I was merely trying to help. A suggestion is just that, a suggestion.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note II
 
Its ok. I have a tendency to assume too much sometimes. To me it was obvious by the layout of my initial post on this subject that it would give some indication of my oral and written ability, yet expose my limited skills in trouble shooting electrical issues in a car. I am also very spoiled by the FFN (FordFalconNews) forum. I currently have a project, sidelined at the moment but will eventually jump back into with both feet, it is a 1961 Ford Falcon 2 door resto mod that I am merging with a 1994 Ford Mustang GT. I plan to do a dbl turbo on the 5.0 (a sleeper). Thats why my handle on here is Falcon GT. Trust me, I know the difference between N/A and boosted by the feel.
 
You'd be surprised at the number of posts regarding a non functioning boost gauge that have been resolved with that suggestion over the years. Clearly I can't help, but I'm sure someone else can. However, attacking anyone trying to help won't get you very far.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note II
 
I didn't attack you man I just expressed that I was offended. I am sorry that you took it that way I truly am. I do appreciate any and all help.
 
Was taking out the battery today and saw a flat gray tube coming up the firewall so I tugged slightly on it to see what it was attached to and it broke off where it was attached to a very small light green tube. It goes toward the passenger side strut tower connects to a thin black tube that circles back around along the firewall and connect to a sensor on the TB. This sensor has 2 other vacuum lines coming off of it. Not sure what sensor that is? I think the thin green plastic tube behind the engine might go down to the transmission? I didnt go under the car to see. I will find some different vacuum tubing to fit (hopefully) and reattach as the current gray vacuum tubing is flat and doesnt seem to actually allow any flow of air. Just curious as to what this is for.
 


Almost sounds like an ignition switch issue, seeing as how the switch won't turn backwards to acc. There are some other threads on here concerning battery drain. Try a quick search for "battery drain" or "battery dying" and see what comes up. Might give you a better idea on where to start. I hate electrical gremlins.

BTW, welcome to the site and nice project on the Falcon :th_thumbsup-wink:
 
Guess Im just going to replace ignition switch since I have no real idea how to figure this out and have had no different suggestions.
 
Replaced the ignition switch today and it did nothing to solve our situation. It still has current draw from somewhere.

I did make some other discoveries. One is that you dont need a key to turn the ignition to start the car. It will die and pop up with a security light. Didnt know you could do that. Also discovered that someone had installed a remote start (course I didnt have the fob for it and the person I got it from said he didnt even know it was on there) but I disconnected it all. Yet still I have something drawing current. I also discovered that I can pull they key out in any situation and it will go back to acc but you dont have to push it in.

I will do a circuit test on fuses as soon as weather get a bit better.

If anyone has any ideas they will be very welcomed.

Also discovered that It leaks water into the passenger side floorboard. Guess I will have to do some more reading as I see there are post already on the subject.

Do the moderators on here chime in much?
 


Oh yea I forgot. I can also shift my shifter into any gear while car is off and key is not in the ignition. So does this mean that the sfift lock behind the ignition switch is not working?
 
Thanks Fordman. I plan to disconect the alternator and seeing if the draw is coming from there and if not I will start with the fuse checks to see where the draw is coming from.
 
After talking with a friend I have some things I'm pondering about. According to previous owner the HUD worked until the battery died. When he replaced battery the HUD no longer worked. I checked the fuse and it looks ok except the feet on the fuse have blackened look to it like it has sparked but the section that is suppose to burn out in event of a power surge or grounding issue seems to be ok at a glance. I will recheck fuse. Im thinking normally the HUD wouldn't draw unless key was on. Am I correct in this thinking? Would the HUD have constant power on it? If so maybe I have the culprit?
 
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