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Confirmed 0-60 with mods list

Also...why have you capped the BBV?

Fix that.

Put a resonator back in your car too, they sound like ass without it. Fuel pump is overkill too, no need for it at your mod level...or for quite some time.
 


Capped the vac line coming off the sensor. See full boost now. Car sounds awesome with no res and stock mufflers. Fuel pump went out a while back and sense I'll be going e85 in the summer I got a good deal on a 255 and threw it in

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No but same principle.. it was only seeing 7.5 pounds before.. now I see 9 most times so I know it helps. And we I beg to differ on exhaust

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The most horrible sound I've had exhaust wise on these car was my old 2000 with stock mufflers and no res, it was like that when I got it, so ****ing high pitched and raspy.

But to each their own, eh?
 


Because more boost is what you're wanting...

Do it the right way.

Get supporting mods and drop pulley sizes.
 
Not wanting more boost, just to hit full boost.. and it is more responsive this way

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I get 0* of knock wot with it this way as well so not doing anything the wrong way.. plus I control the launch control. Rather have this setup this way versus stock. Losing all boost when launching vs keeping it at full boost and learning to launch it yourself. Before like a said 0-60 with solenoid better run was 6.9 now I'm getting 5.9 with out it

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Biggest glasspack up middle to replace the resonator with, mufflers of your pick up behind(Stock, Tubos, Hookers, Borlas all get good results.) I've had good luck with with cheap Trush/Dynomax turbos on my old car, as long as the resonator is fat. Running glass pack + stock muffs on my Comp-G.
 


Personally I have looked at tons of exhaust videos and don't really like wasting weight and money when you can't make em sound good anyways. I'm going to run a exhaust cut out after cat and. Then two bullet race muffler to turn downs to save weight. Think if rather have a better performing exhaust than a better sounding

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Anyone will tell you that the stock set up is good up to 350 wheel, if you want to save your ears, keep them stock and add a glasspack back in the middle. All I can say.
 
Yeah I hear ya, how much weight could be saved though from the rest if say the exhaust is turned down right before. The rear seats?

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Correct

And some will realize its a Grand Prix not a racekar and that the amount of weight your going to save just by getting rid of the stock mufflers isn't going to help your car be that much faster.

Find a happy medium a car that will still hold its own and not make your ears bleed Everytime your forced to drive it
 
I realize it's a grand prix, just want the best flow to support mods. And save the weight to help the back not sag so much.. probably gonna save about 20 pounds with new setup.. still figuring the setup though to minimize how loud it'll be

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If you're going to put a cutout on I'd install it before the cat myself, cutout is a good option. You can leave stock cat back on and have the choice of a loud car or a quiet one and have wide open flow from DP at the touch of a button. You can choose how loud/quiet you want it depending how far cutout is cracked open.
 
hdnseek said:
And exile... I was also seeing intake temps below freezing during this run as well on an average night I can stick a 6.1 to 6.3. I really feel a difference with the suspension mods though, the swaybar and end links help put more power on the ground as well as those flipped dogmounts, they help the engine from rocking and solodfy it up. Huge difference and my lower motor mount is shot still. I would flip your dog mounts and cap that boost bypass solenoid and tell me if you feel a difference

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Click to expand...
Yea I believe it was about 70 degrees out when I did 6.8. Haven't really just gone to a stretch of road and repetitively tried to get a better times, just off stop lights when I get the chance. Plus I don't always have my OBDII adpater running. That was back in June. Since October I replaced all the shocks/spring with KYB Excel-G, rear sway bar/links, and boxed trailing arms. My front sway needs to be replaced, its starting to split apart.
Anyways, I gotta try some runs now see if that stuff made any difference. It's really cold here in Chicago, probably not ideal atm.

Oh and what do you mean by "cap that boost bypass solenoid"? Haven't come across this before.
 
http://www.modularfords.com/threads/136017-The-Correct-Boost-Bypass-Mod-How-To

Heres the right way to do it.. I made it simple... There is one vacuum line that runs from the electronic solenoid to the boost bypass actuator, it the bottom line on the actuator. If you pop the line off the actuator and cap the line it will keep the car from bleeding off boost when in reverse and at top speed limiter as well as the use of it as traction control. The edu trigger the solenoid to cut boost by opening the actuator when no traction is suspected. And I found it useful because I'm actually able to hit full boost a little quicker and get off the line to because boost remains when launching. The car just feels more responsive to accelerating this way. You can also just unplug the ad Apr but it will throw a code. I'll get some pictures tomorrow

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