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Chipped pistons options

Re: rebuild updates

Well the block is honed,cleaned and lubed up awaiting the pistons. I checked the rings and the are within spec and luckily on the high end,so i'm leaving them be. I'm going to use the L67 rods that came with the pistons as i don't trust the L32 ones i have after the abuse they went through. I still think I got L32 pistons/rods on accident as they are coated pistons.....or am I dreaming???

Questions does anyone have an online PDF of all the bearing gap specs? I have to pickup some plastigage and still mic all the journals,but I can't find a damn manual for this car.

I'm hoping to have the lower end back together in a few days. Then I have to tear down,clean and lap the valves on the heads.
 


Update

Bottom end is together,L67 pistons.rods,ARP rod bolts, clevite77 rod/main bearings. I reused the main bolts and torqued everything down according to the manual...whats with GM's weird torquing rituals?

Heads got resurfaced,valves/seats ground,valves lapped and hot tanked. installed new valve seals,head gaskets and torqued them down also. head work was $213 with one day turn around!

Working on all the external accessories etc. Got the timing chain cover,water pump,oil pump and oil filter ext mounted up this morning...finally.

What are people doing for sealing? I've been using thread sealant on almost all the bolts per the manual and assembly lube everywhere else. Just curious with the gaskets as most are presealed felpros or have the rubber sealing beads on them.
 
Thinkmoto said:
Update

Bottom end is together,L67 pistons.rods,ARP rod bolts, clevite77 rod/main bearings. I reused the main bolts and torqued everything down according to the manual...whats with GM's weird torquing rituals?

Heads got resurfaced,valves/seats ground,valves lapped and hot tanked. installed new valve seals,head gaskets and torqued them down also. head work was $213 with one day turn around!

Working on all the external accessories etc. Got the timing chain cover,water pump,oil pump and oil filter ext mounted up this morning...finally.

What are people doing for sealing? I've been using thread sealant on almost all the bolts per the manual and assembly lube everywhere else. Just curious with the gaskets as most are presealed felpros or have the rubber sealing beads on them.
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Thats TTY aka torque to yeild. Which means you should have used new bolts.

That is if its saying 60 ft lbs + 90* or something like that.
 


TorqueAutoMotiv said:
the tty crap sucks unless you have the tech wrench or one like it that does angles aswell as torque
Click to expand...

I found a torque sequence on here for the head bolts that mentioned nothing about the angle crap, so I went by that. It was 40,60,80,90,90 ft lbs for the heads. As for the Mains I torqued them to the setting and kinda rolled the dice on the angle after doing some reading on that stuff.
I've never once in industry have seen a torque to yield bolt that had to be turned x amount of degrees after torquing to a value. I've dealt with hardware torque values in excess of 4000ft lbs so I'm not scared to reuse TTY bolts.
 
Made a bunch of progress last night and continuing where I left off right now. I'm about to drag the trans out of the corner of the garage and make sure mice aren't living in it yet. I will say this at some point this thing got HOT, the front exhaust manifold is heat checked like crazy.
 
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I got the motor in last night and everything hooked up and fluids topped off by sunrise. battery was dead so I went to bed. Gonna go get a charger and let it sit on trickle for awhile and then fire the beast up.
 


bluegtp91 said:
Good work man...clean all the carbon out of the TB though before you start it...
Click to expand...

Too late.
Well the car started on the first crank....when it was finally getting fuel. I had the fuel pump fuse pulled from when I pulled the motor still:th_laugh-lol2: DUH! Lifters quieted down, they had me worried for a bit, cooling system is starting to purge.

One question with the Tstat, Bio said chuck it, will the seal stay in place without the tstat in there? I was a bit leery about that so I left it in. It's cycling properly but I'd rather have it out to get all the air out.

I have some issues yet to resolve with it,but it sounds better now and runs smooth for a change.
 
Found my coolant leak........friggin T-stat housing seal:th_shakinghead1: of all things. Oh well I guess I'll get a new one in the morning. Motor is running smooth and no other leaks are present thus far so I'm happy. Just need to go take it for a test drive and see if anything else needs to be ironed out.
 


the housing gasket IS the thermostat o-ring. i learned this by trying to find a housing gasket at the dealer only to tell me the part didnt exist. i think they used them on a few of the older cars and then decided against after 98 or so.
 
I didn't think anything of replacing the seal, oh well my mistake isn't the first one I've made. I also want the car to run at normal temps as its bone stock. I have no need to run it without a tstat and its functioning like it should anyways.
 
Well I replaced the $3 seal and waaalaaa no more leak. Went for a easy going test drive to burn all the coolant off the block and see how it drives. I hear a faint growling under acceleration which I can't tell what it is. Power steering pump is still growling on occasion so I'm not gonna rule that out yet. Otherwise its running very smooth,no leaks and the oil is still clear as day.

OK question for the gurus I know the DIC boost gauge is inaccurate,but should it be pegged under light acceleration? I was going slightly uphill, but was feathering the throttle as I'm paranoid about KR. Also where is the best deal on a scanguage? I'm thinking if she keeps the car it would be a worthwhile investment, I'm also super paranoid.
 
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