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Check Engine Light, Remote Start Issue, and more

M

MidnightGT

New member
I am hoping someone out there can shed some light on my situation. For the past few months or so, my check engine light has been going on and off. The first time it went on it was raining heavily out and I just figured i hit a puddle or something as it went off in a couple of days. A couple weeks later it went on again so I took it to Advanced Auto and the code reported an emissions leak. I wasn't too worried about it and planned on waiting until my inspection was up to see if the mechanic could find the leak. Well, the light went off again within a couple of days so again I thought all is well.

I went for another month with the light not going on but then once it started to get cold (below freezing), the light again went on and my Remote Start had been struggling to get the car started. The remote start often failed on the first attempt (sounded like it started then shut off) but the second attempt usually worked but even then that didnt start it up always. I had a freak issue last year when leaving my girlfriend's parents house after a christmas party. It was probably around 10 degrees and snowing quite heavily with a good amount laying on the streets. Normally the car laughs at the snow for the most part but not this time. I started the car using the remote start to warm up a bit while i cleared the exterior snow off mine and my girlfriends. When I got in the car and put the key in, everything seemed to be fine as I sat there for a second. Then I put the car in Drive and started to drive away and that's when it seemed like a 4 alarm emergency. The ABS light went on, the Traction Control System disabled itself and if I remember correctly the Power Steering seemed "iffy." I was puzzled, turned the car off, restarted it and still the same issues. Great, when I need these features the most in a snow storm you fail me!! It was not a far drive home but it was a bit more interesting so i did it. The next day I started the car and it was a bit warmer out and everything was fine. It has not happened since but i have not been in conditions like that since either. Has this every happened to anyone else?

Back to the present... The check engine light is still on and now my Remote Start does not want to start the car at all. When I try it, I hear a click under the hood and a noise coming from the rear of the car (pump?) and that's it. It doesn't "turn over." It seems to start up fine when I use the key in the ignition. Does the Check Engine light and Remote Start issue correlate at all? I did not buy the car from a dealer but does it sound like only a dealer can help me? Recommendations are greatly appreciated and I aplogize for the long post.
 


Let me summarize what I am look for:

1. What would cause the ABS and TCS to not work in cold conditions?
2. Is it possible for the Check Engine light and the stock Remote Start not workin to be related? Could it be a bad starter and how would I test for that?
3. Should I take it to a dealer vs. a regular shop?

Thanks
 
you could try checking the wires to the hubs, if one is loose the abs and track off light will come on. also look for damage to the wires themselves. (cracks and or cuts)
 
thanks for the help all, i will check it out. seems i have to find out what the check engine issue is and maybe that will solve my problem. good to know that the remote start disables when the CEL is on. thanks
 
Probably bad gas cap (does it practically spin freely?) or clogged/dirty/borked solenoid on the evap issue, probably what's setting off the CEL.

Sounds to me like the ABS module it bad (they become poorly from too much electric; a factory fail) and needs a rebuild that will also serve to protect it from ever being an issue again. But it's always good to scan for ABS codes to make sure.
 


if your gas cap is bad then your remote start will be disabled, buy a new gas and that should fix that problem. (btw "emissions" is usually a bad gas cap)
 
Bills is right and also aftermarket alarms and starters can casue issues with the harness.Disconnect it if it is aftermarket and try again. also was it an evap syatem large leak or small? small auto parts stores dont have the proper equipment to tell you this.large=gas cap. small= cracking in evap hose(good luck finding it) this would cause your car to lose fuel pressure and thus not allow the car to start remotely.have a fuel pressure leak down test perforemd just to be sure(needs about 48 psi and should hold it for hours.as for the abs and trac lights have your front and rear wheel bearings and abs wires checked for end play.if theres play in the bearing it would cause this to happen beacause the tone ring inside the hub unit isnt sending proper signal.But it doesnt have to have play to be bad either.is the car making any strange growling noises when driving?usualy starts around 35 mph but can be sooner.the noise will go away when steering one way and get louder the other(if only ones bad)these are easy things to find if you know what your looking for.let me know if it helps you at all
 
Good that Bill and pontiacgtp24 chimed in. To me is does not sound like a factory remote start. The factory remote starts will not even attempt to start the car if a CEL is on, a door is open, or if you even have low fuel. Based on what he said, it tries to start even with CEL... so aftermarket in my books. As for the CEL find the code and that will help you and us out. Scott mentioned checking the wires and connectors at the wheel hub assembly.... good idea. You gave us a very detailed description but failed to establish what you drive. For all we know you could be driving a Ford Mustang..... *cough*Poke*cough*
 
The noises he is hearing is the exact same noises I heard when my remote start was disabled. He never said it attempted to start, he said it made some noises under the dash. Read my thread I linked in my previous post.
 


Sorry, 2006 Grand Prix GT

Thanks for the help all. The light went off again was working okay. I tried to remote start tonight (16 degrees out) and it started but I didn't get in the car before the 10 min limit and it shut off. I Remote started again but it failed to start. I started it up normally and drove off and after about 5 mins, the CEL went on.

I'll see if I can get a code tomorrow.

I am pretty sure it's factory remote start. It acts as described in the owners manual. I bought if with 50k miles on it, it's at 86k now.
 
my CEL came on last night so I was sure to try and get the code today. Funny thing too, I got the code, went in to get more info from the guy at Advanced Auto, then I left the store. I started my car, saw my CEL on, pulled out of the parking lot, the light goes off...

anywho, here are the codes I got this time around which was a little different than what I was first told and originally wrote

P0128 - "coolant tempt is always low"
I just had the coolant flushed last week by my mechanic so I have to check the coolant level but that should be fine. Would they have been able to tell if the Thermostat was bad. I am thinking its the Engine Coolant Temp sensor if anything... thoughts?

P0300 - "cylinder misfire detected - random cylinders"
probable cause - ignition system fault-spark plug(s), iginition wires, coil; vacuum leak; injector fault; high or low fuel pressure
I am at a loss on this one and a bit nervous. I had the plugs and wires changed a couple of years ago so they should be good. So perhaps one of the coils?


I appreciate any help. thanks
 
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Okay, i don't have any near future plans to mod the car yet but eventually I will. Should I just replace with a 195 t stat or consider dropping to the 180? Or, since they aren't expensive, would it be wiser to drop to 180 when I eventually start working towards a smaller pulley?
 


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