• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Car Stalls PLEASE HELP!!!

I wish you would at least post the same thing. Now i have to read this thread.

I thought we agreed it was a fuel issue or something causing the fuel pump to shut off?
 


I am just trying to rule every possibilty out. What did I leave out?

Alright so I am on my way home from work last night which is literally like less than 2 miles and it stalls out again as I pull on to my street. And now it is tripping three codes! p0101, p0107, and p1107! Still no check engine light though I read these off of my scan gauge. I already checked the wiring I suppose I will again. The maf and map are both new also. Any indeas/tips?
 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Alright so after worl last night I completely went over the wiring in the car. There are no shorts and I was unable to find an open circuit. I traced everything from the sensors themselves all the way to the pcm. I checked the map, maf, coolant temp, tps, iac and 02. Aswell as any other harnes or plug I could find. All seem fine. I checked for the 5v ref. wire at the sensors and all was looking good. The grounds were good. And the map was putting out 2.4v out the signal wire when key on and car off and I checked and made sure it was getting down the pcm. I rerouted the map extenstion harness so that it was not by the ignition wires. When I metered the referance wire at the pcm and applied vac. it did respond. When the car was running at idle the volts dropped to .8/.9v and would vary with engine speed. I did notice however that the larger or the right side fuel line was a little wet and if you jiggle it in and out and side to side fuel drips out of the quick connector. Is there a way to replace the o-rings inside the nylon fuel lines? If dont really touch then it doesnt leak and it doesnt spew or either. Regardless I am definately gonna replace the o-rings on the line if I could. For now I zipped the fuel line to the main vac. line for the brake booster and it kinda kept pulled in the fuel rail when I pushed the vac. line back on the blower,if that makes sense. Could it be possible for this to be the culprit? I realize its sorta a strech. Either way is there somethin I should know about replacing the o-rings?
 
Alright so I replaced the o-rings and it is still stalling out on me. The last time that it stalled I checked out my scangauge and under map kpa it read like 102 kpa with the key on and egine off. I turned the key off and back on again and it read the same. It is supposed to read 40kpa with the key on engine off. And when I tried to start it, it refused to fire up. Then I unplugged the map and it fired right up. The map sensor is about a month or two old from autozone, I ordered another one and it should be in today. Any other ideas as to why it would read like this? Besides a bad map?
 
Alright so I replaced the o-rings and it is still stalling out on me. The last time that it stalled I checked out my scangauge and under map kpa it read like 102 kpa with the key on and egine off. I turned the key off and back on again and it read the same. It is supposed to read 40kpa with the key on engine off. And when I tried to start it, it refused to fire up. Then I unplugged the map and it fired right up. The map sensor is about a month or two old from autozone, I ordered another one and it should be in today. Any other ideas as to why it would read like this? Besides a bad map?
Click to expand...
you still have electrical problems, the o-rings were more for safety or to keep from burning the car down.

next time move the wiring around and see if it drops. I wonder how many volts (signal volts) does it send to the PCM to read that high? There is a signal, ground, positive, and it uses the bap sensor to give you gauge pressure.

BTW 102 kPa = 14.8psi

EDIT: found info on our MAP sensors...
In order to sense manifold pressure (boost), a 2-Bar MAP Sensor is utilized. The acronym MAP means Manifold Absolute Pressure. Remember that at sea level atmospheric pressure is approximately 14.7 psia (0 psig). A vacuum/boost gauge that reads 0 (zero) when the engine is OFF is really reading 14.7 psig. The dial on the gauge has simply been scaled (painted) to read zero. When you start your engine, the typical automotive vacuum gauge is calibrated in inches of Mercury. 30" of Mercury is a perfect vacuum, i.e., no atmospheric pressure.

The typical supercharger or turbo boost gauge is calibrated in PSI or pounds per square inch. If your boost gauge reads 5 pounds, your absolute manifold pressure is 14.7 + 5 or 19.7 psia. The 2-Bar MAP Sensor is like a vacuum/boost gauge. When the engine is OFF the MAP Sensor sits in the middle at 2.5VDC. At high vacuum levels, the voltage drops. At 15 pounds of boost, the output rises to +5VDC. The 2-Bar MAP Sensor has an absolute range of 0-30 psia, (pounds per square inch absolute). Gauge pressure subtracts off the atmospheric pressure of 14.7 pounds. It's like a weighing scale and "tear" pressure. GM Part# 16009886
Click to expand...

from ... GM 2BAR MAP Sensor

read the first chart on the following link, according to the chart your sensor was pegged to the max or the PCM was seeing 5V in the signal coming from the MAP sensor. Could be a short though and not the sensor...
MAP sensor identification information GM
 


years ago there was a recall on the FPR that was on 3800 NA's , i remember doing 5 a day for months lol

also, stop throwing parts at it, diagnose the problem and proceed accordingly
 
I have been trying to diagnose the problem. I just really need this car straightened out. The weather is really making it difficult to work on. Also you wouldnt happened to have a dual zone climate control off that gtx you are parting out, would you?
 
Alright so I tested the wiring again. I was getting like 0.8 ohms resistence from the signal wire when I probe at the back of the sensor and at the corresponding pin at the pcm. I was getting a funny reading when I probed the ground and the reference wire. I got a reading of like 1.4-1.5ohm on them when I first tested. Then I exposed the wiring all the way down to the pcm. When I did this I was only getting a reading of like 0.8ohm as well on both of them. But when I would wiggle the entire harness I had it jump up to like 1 ohm on the ground. I grabbed the three and thoroughly inspected them all and I could not really find anything except one small cut in the ground wire but it looked pretty fresh like I may have just done it when I was cutting the tape I put on from the last time I inspected the wiring. There were like maybe two broken strands on the wire itself. So what I decided to do was reroute the entire harness. I ran all new three wires and ran them up the drivers strut tower and along the firewall away from the egr and to the map. I wanted to completely eliminate any possibility of interference. Everything is taped up very well and split loomed. All the connections are soldered and replaced with 18awg spooled wire from work. When I went to pull it outside I saw that we totaly got dumped on with snow so I couldnt really try and see if that fixed the problem or not.
 
Alright well that was not it. It stalled out on me again today! WTF! What should I do? What else can it be? Maybe a pcm? Is it possible that it is my tune? I really hope that it is not my pcm, because I purchased the credits from hptuners for this pcm. So if I replace it then I will be out a hundred bucks on top of the new pcm. What else could it be? I am honestly ready to just give up on this car. I cannot tell you how frustrating this all has been for me. What should I do next?
 


Alright so we found a stock gtp file in the tuning repository at hptuners. And we flashed it to the pcm and it is still doing it. So I guess all that is left is the pcm. I cannot believe this. How would I go about getting another pcm? Should I get a gtp one? I am gonna lose the credits for hptuners correct? There is nothing left is there?
 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Would it be a problem to run just a factory gtp pcm? Is there a difference between the transmissions?
 


So I called zzp and talked to zoom. I figured I would get them a call before I shelled out more money on another pcm. He is telling me that the p0101 code should be removed from the pcm. He said the with that code being active it may confuse the car. He also said that they had a similar problem on one of thier cars with the random stalling and they had to remove the code. I dont know what to think. Last night I removed the code via hp tuners. I drove around a little and then we got some snow so I havent really got a chance to really drive it much. The ****ty thing is that its a random stall. He told me to try this for now and he will do some more research and get back to me. If this was it the whole time I am gonna be so pissed off, but releived at the same time. I have been dissappointed too many times with this. Where I will think I got it figured out and then be let down and get even more frustrated. I guess I will just have to wait and see.
 
Alright so I dont want to jinx myself, but, so far so good. I havent had it happen to me again yet. It was random before but anytime that I got on the highway within a minute of cruising it would stall out for sure. It has not happened yet. It defenitly would have stalled out by now. If this was it the WHOLE time I am gonna be SO pissed. I spent a good amount of money and time replaceing all sorts of parts, some twice, and countless hours trying to diagnose the issue. Not to mention the frustration I went through. I thought about getting rid of the car! And with it stalling out on me on the highway that like puts my life in danger. I have had to get out and push my car on the highway in the middle of the night to get it to the shoulder. It happened in a construction zone before and I had to push it to the next break in the barrier. That sucked! While I was doing this I had quite a few cars coming damn close to crushing me. A few cars had to lock up the wheels to stop. Yeah it was fukin scary. And all this because some guy forgot to uncheck a box whe he was doing my tune! It literally took 30 secs. to delete the code. It took longer to boot up the laptop. All the money I spent on sensors and ****, that was the money I would have used for other **** that I wanted like injectors or rockers or plog.
 
So it has been a few weeks now. Dare I say all is well? I would like to thank all the people that have been helping me out through this. I appreciate all your input. Thank you all.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top