• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

car running unusually cool



Well I took off the coolant hose, and it appears that the thermostat is still shut, but the rubber gasket somehow got all bunched up and pushed away, so that's not where it should be. Don't know how that happened.

edit: and by "rubber gasket" I mean the o-ring.
 
Last edited:
maybe with the lower temps we've been having out side lately the t stat was working but being cooler out it was really working and you ran way to cool?

if it still runs to cold you may want to put a 195 back in for winter.
 
Scottydoggs said:
maybe with the lower temps we've been having out side lately the t stat was working but being cooler out it was really working and you ran way to cool?

if it still runs to cold you may want to put a 195 back in for winter.
Click to expand...

No, it was definitely this:

qSawpXI.jpg


Managed to come off the thermostat somehow, and then it got all mangled and what not. Gotta be extra careful when I reinstall it.

Luckily this means my thermostat's been a peach.
 
Now how did you manage that? The thermostat and gasket sit in the housing very snug before re-installing the upper portion.
abws.jpg


Anyway I really don't think that will cause much coolant to be bypassed. Sure a little may leak through but it shouldn't cause any noticeable issues unless it leaks externally.

Also know that a 180° thermostat will run different temperatures in different seasons when un-tuned. My 180 runs about 190-195 in the summer and 185 in the winter. Same thermostat, just different outside temperature= larger cooling effect. The 195 thermostat would start to close preventing it from going below 195.
 
02NavyBlue said:
Now how did you manage that? The thermostat and gasket sit in the housing very snug before re-installing the upper portion.
abws.jpg


Anyway I really don't think that will cause much coolant to be bypassed. Sure a little may leak through but it shouldn't cause any noticeable issues unless it leaks externally.

Also know that a 180° thermostat will run different temperatures in different seasons when un-tuned. My 180 runs about 190-195 in the summer and 185 in the winter. Same thermostat, just different outside temperature= larger cooling effect. The 195 thermostat would start to close preventing it from going below 195.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty certain that this was the issue, because otherwise it was sitting fine at 180. I'll replace it tomorrow and we'll find out from there.
 


I didn't say that scotty advised it you actually went against it my car has a normal temp of 172 sometimes gets to about 195 as soon as the fans kick drops to 170-172 pcm is shipped to be programed with a 185* turn on but additionally going to run a in line switch to cool down "manually." I will let it run about 175-160 during track season with the switch other than that let the pcm control it. so what's the problem with that?
 
why do people want to cool the air with intercoolers and not want to keep the block cooler? I understand mpg's.. if you have colder denser air your car uses the fuel trims to adjust to "more air" thus more fuel. so what's the issue more air + fuel = power thus less over all economy but better efficiency of power to work... I'm no tuning expert but I do understand I'm not trying to b/s around I've been around cars for about 14 years and my knowledge grows everyday.. I'm not trying to pi** anyone off, my tactfulness doesn't show via text I just want some experienced input....

sorry for the thread hi-jacking 98gtp
I will make a new one if the discussion get too detailed
 
thats two different things, cold air is denser thicker more air per sq inch, the more air you can stuff in a engine the faster it will go, cold air helps.

my stock regal makes about 7 psi of boost in the summer, come winter and a 5 to 10 deg night, and its at full 8 psi, and you can feel the extra power.

so cooler air will net more power.

cooler block not so much, engines were made to be run at 200 deg or more, this is where they run the best for mpg and performance.

all this lower t stat stuff is really silly, its not 1970 anymore. a computer runs the car.
 
Not to mention a 180 degree t-stat doesn't make any sense without a tune. Our fans don't come on until somewhere above 200 degrees, so when you're moving you'll get cooler temps, but sitting in traffic (where most cars get hottest) you have no airflow until those fans come on. And being that they're meant to turn on to be effective with a 195 degree t-stat, your 180 doesn't give you any benefit there.
 
I wish the like button was here because that is that in a pinch.

I've had this exact same conversation with other people and even though they are of the younger generation they still want to do "old school" tricks that aren't pertinent anymore.

The ONLY reason to run a cooler t-stat is if you live in the desert and have trouble maintaining temps. Other than that is it not going to gain you any horsepower.
 


I don't think anyone was looking for more HP from a colder t-stat. People just have an idea that cooler is better for engine life. It's true if that means mean cooler than 240°.(cooler than abnormal temps)

And a cooling fan should never come on in the winter time. Over here in MI it's anywhere from 15-40° F and a 180° t-stat would be just about 100% effective(unless your car's job is to sit there and run in your driveway it's whole life). The summertime, not so much. For someone like me who rarely gets stuck in traffic it did fine, but not great. I'd say just run a 195° unless you have a reason to run cooler for mods. If it's overheating with a new 195 t-stat, there are other issues.
 
still doesn't make sense to cool the air coming in the intake and hope the block doesn't warm it back up.. I know its not that big of a difference but you say colder air helps... so why wouldn't a 25* lower block temp help? you fight tooth and nail for a 75* drop in temp with a ic but the block warms it +40* =net loss of only 35* IAT its a gain but not a nominal advantage... MY NUMBERS ARENT PRECISE just a point to be made, and don't tell me block temps and IAT's do not correlate that's just basic knowledge that that if cold air goes through a hot cylinder guess what the air gets hot...
 
In a stock car a lower temp tstat makes no sense. In a modified super/turbo charged engine with a lot of boost that generates heat you want to keep the cylinders cooler to avoid detonation. That's the theory anyway... along with colder plugs. Makes sense to me.
 
ntreftz said:
still doesn't make sense to cool the air coming in the intake and hope the block doesn't warm it back up.. I know its not that big of a difference but you say colder air helps... so why wouldn't a 25* lower block temp help? you fight tooth and nail for a 75* drop in temp with a ic but the block warms it +40* =net loss of only 35* IAT its a gain but not a nominal advantage... MY NUMBERS ARENT PRECISE just a point to be made, and don't tell me block temps and IAT's do not correlate that's just basic knowledge that that if cold air goes through a hot cylinder guess what the air gets hot...
Click to expand...


because its tuned from the factory to run at that temp, its the ideal place the temp it runs at. you change the t stat and the car dont know why its running so much cooler then it should be, then tosses your mpg in the trash by over compensating the change you made.

cold air is dense air, more air molecules you can stuff in a engine the faster it will go or well the more HP it will make.

this is simple to under stand. normal air and fuel and spark, explodes. but more air plus fuel explodes bigger. same way a super charger or turbo works, more air the better, but now cool that air more and it becomes denser, so it adds even more air because its cold.

why do you think a GP is a dog next to a gtp? the supercharger is pumping more air into the engine.
 
Scottydoggs said:
because its tuned from the factory to run at that temp, its the ideal place the temp it runs at. you change the t stat and the car dont know why its running so much cooler then it should be, then tosses your mpg in the trash by over compensating the change you made.

cold air is dense air, more air molecules you can stuff in a engine the faster it will go or well the more HP it will make.

this is simple to under stand. normal air and fuel and spark, explodes. but more air plus fuel explodes bigger. same way a super charger or turbo works, more air the better, but now cool that air more and it becomes denser, so it adds even more air because its cold.

why do you think a GP is a dog next to a gtp? the supercharger is pumping more air into the engine.
Click to expand...



^^ i like this comment
 


Again the reason for a cooler engine is to avoid kr. Running a smaller pulley makes the supercharger spin much faster and generate a lot more heat. Stock l67's motors generate 6-8 psi of boost my car gets up over 14 psi of boost. The extra heat generated in the induction can heat the cylinders and cause kr. Google it and search this forum. A tuned pcm is needed to turn the fans on earlier however.
 
ITS A GTP ladies and gentlemen... so.. once again
cold air(75*) + "H"eaton supercharger(69*) + cylinder temps(172*)= colder combustion chamber temp(316*) = lower chance of pre-detonation
cold air(75*) + "H"eaton supercharger(69*) + cylinder temps(210*) = hotter combustion chamber temp(354*) = higher chance of pre-detonation

NOT EXACT FIGURES I know on average at 75* ambient temp + supercharger intake temp is about 144*+ cylinder temp = chamber temp
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top