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Car goes in for work on the trans

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Well dropping it off tonight to get a few things looked at. Not sure whats up with it but while cruising on the highway (happened during the winter much more than now so I'm guessing it has to be cold for it happen) and you give it enough gas to accelerate but not downshift (this all being in OD) the rpms will bounce up and down, almost like its slipping but its really not.

The second thing is it won't stay in OD unless you keep some gas on it. As soon as you lift off the gas it will come out. At that point you give it some gas again the RPMS go up and then it drops into OD again.

The last is that it is vibrating at highway speeds. Seems that the amount of gas can effect how much vibration happens. Its kind of comes and goes and isn't always that bad.

Good thing I have an extended warrenty on this thing!!! ha ha ha, I paid $1,500 for a 3 year extended warrenty and I without a doubt would pay for it again on any car I get.
 


The second thing is it won't stay in OD unless you keep some gas on it. As soon as you lift off the gas it will come out. At that point you give it some gas again the RPMS go up and then it drops into OD again.

That's normal. That's the torque converter clutch unlocking and then locking again.
 
Does it seem like it is surging? RPM's fluctuate while friving at a steady speed?
 
doesn't happen on any other vehicles I've driven?

It's probably less noticeable. Our torque converters are pretty loose on the bottom end and it will make it more pronounced.

Try this. Next time you're on the highway and you let off the gas (when you think it has slipped out of OD), pull the shifter back into "3". If the RPMs go up, you were still in OD. If the RPMs don't change, then it is in fact slipping out of OD.
 
TDCRacing said:
Does it seem like it is surging? RPM's fluctuate while driving at a steady speed?

Its not a steady speed as you have to have a good amount of gas. If I'm cruising its just fine.

It's probably less noticeable. Our torque converters are pretty loose on the bottom end and it will make it more pronounced.

Try this. Next time you're on the highway and you let off the gas (when you think it has slipped out of OD), pull the shifter back into "3". If the RPMs go up, you were still in OD. If the RPMs don't change, then it is in fact slipping out of OD.

I'll give that a try. I know that if I let off the gas and then get back on it (giving about 1/4 throttle) the RPMS will go up to 2,500 or so and then drop back down a considerable amount.
 


I know that if I let off the gas and then get back on it (giving about 1/4 throttle) the RPMS will go up to 2,500 or so and then drop back down a considerable amount.

Normal for highway speeds. Just the torque converter clutch being loose and then engaging.
 
That doesn't sound right to me. Thats a lot of in and out on it that doesn't need to happen. On other vehicles its never done that. I just feel like its causing undo stress on the torque converter and transmission. Not to mention that I'm sure MPG don't work out that well when its going up and down like that. I understand your saying its lose and thats how are cars normally are but I don't feel this to be right. thats all
 
Well, based off your description, yours is operating the same as every w-body. It can't keep the TCC engaged when you let off the gas, and it has to wait a moment to lock it when you do give it gas again. You can change it if you have a tuner and firm up how quickly it applies again. But otherwise it's operating as it was programmed to.

It's not causing any extra stress. The torque converter is doing what it's made to do...
 
yeah the guy at the place didn't see anything wrong with that. the list of **** wrong is as follows:

-CV joint boot is ripped, need to replace that. I'm guessing they need to replace the whole axle
-oil pan gasket is leaking
-Tranmission pan is missing bolts (Oh JOY!!!) and could use a flush
-Tie rod end is bad

I believe thats it. They told me the CV joint and **** isn't covered which after looking through my warrenty it clearly states it is along with the axle and everything. So I have to call up tomorrow and ***** about that. The flush, trans pan bolts, and tie rod end I'll do myself as its all pretty easy. I want to do the flush as I want to install a shift kit at the same time.

The oil pan gasket is covered so I'll have that taken care of when I take care of when I bring it back in to get the CV joint and axle looked at.
 
Be aware, I've seen missing trans pan bolts that were actually broken bolts, so make sure you have an ezout if you're going to take care of that one.
 


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