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Cam questions

I was leaving things alone, because I didn't want to debate semantics, ie, when I said Stock Roller Chain...! The thread police are watching!

And for the matter, stock rockers cannot change its ratio, they don't magically increase lift, talk about myth! Roller Rockers provide less wear on the valve train due to less side loading on the valves, especially at higher lifts. The stock rockers are good, but if you want better, you go with Rollers, sorry! 1.65 is 1.65... 1.8 is 1.8, etc, and if you want too ensures ire to try it, it's not checked at the rocker, but at the valve. Do the clay method with 1.6's and 1.8's or 9's and swap a higher lift cam and do the clay again and tell me which has more "LIFT"... It's mechnical, it doesn't move, you don't get more from nothing. I've read this 100 times and it's BS. As a matter of fact, the higher ratio rockers do best by accentuating the cam lobe profile, ie, ramp rates are affected by ration, ie, quicker opening/closing on higher ratio rockers on par with its ration.

Double chain is the way to go, last time I can offer advise on this, it's a no brainer. Don't think too much, you're over thinking things! If it's the same $, go Double Roller.
 


Turbocharged400sbc said:
Oem chain snapped at 74k miles after swapping in a vs and 105s at ~35k

Saving 200+$ cost over 1000$
Click to expand...

Yes, and buy NEW unless absolutely unable!
Unless you know how and what to look for as far as wear. My double roller is in its 3rd engine and barely any slack, still tight as hell... Lol
 
coolone said:
I was leaving things alone, because I didn't want to debate semantics, ie, when I said Stock Roller Chain...! The thread police are watching!

And for the matter, stock rockers cannot change its ratio, they don't magically increase lift, talk about myth! Roller Rockers provide less wear on the valve train due to less side loading on the valves, especially at higher lifts. The stock rockers are good, but if you want better, you go with Rollers, sorry! 1.65 is 1.65... 1.8 is 1.8, etc, and if you want too ensures ire to try it, it's not checked at the rocker, but at the valve. Do the clay method with 1.6's and 1.8's or 9's and swap a higher lift cam and do the clay again and tell me which has more "LIFT"... It's mechnical, it doesn't move, you don't get more from nothing. I've read this 100 times and it's BS. As a matter of fact, the higher ratio rockers do best by accentuating the cam lobe profile, ie, ramp rates are affected by ration, ie, quicker opening/closing on higher ratio rockers on par with its ration.

Double chain is the way to go, last time I can offer advise on this, it's a no brainer. Don't think too much, you're over thinking things! If it's the same $, go Double Roller.
Click to expand...

A roller rocker has the roller at the valve tip where the fulcrum stays at the same distance from the pivot point throughout the travel arc.
The OEM rocker has a sliding tip at the valves with a needle bearing pivot.
Because the valves sweep across the slide pad the valve face starts at the 1.6 ratio and sweeps outward from the pivot towards 1.66 as the valve reaches max lift.
 
coolone said:
I was leaving things alone, because I didn't want to debate semantics, ie, when I said Stock Roller Chain...! The thread police are watching!

And for the matter, stock rockers cannot change its ratio, they don't magically increase lift, talk about myth! Roller Rockers provide less wear on the valve train due to less side loading on the valves, especially at higher lifts. The stock rockers are good, but if you want better, you go with Rollers, sorry! 1.65 is 1.65... 1.8 is 1.8, etc, and if you want too ensures ire to try it, it's not checked at the rocker, but at the valve. Do the clay method with 1.6's and 1.8's or 9's and swap a higher lift cam and do the clay again and tell me which has more "LIFT"... It's mechnical, it doesn't move, you don't get more from nothing. I've read this 100 times and it's BS. As a matter of fact, the higher ratio rockers do best by accentuating the cam lobe profile, ie, ramp rates are affected by ration, ie, quicker opening/closing on higher ratio rockers on par with its ration.

Double chain is the way to go, last time I can offer advise on this, it's a no brainer. Don't think too much, you're over thinking things! If it's the same $, go Double Roller.
Click to expand...

Lol. You struggled in geometry, didn't you?
 
So my dad's kind of old school and I asked him for help with the valve springs since I don't have a compressor and he does and he said we could do it with air but he prefers the "rope" method. I guess you push rope in the plug hole to keep the valve up? Anyone do this?

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ive heard of yarn to shoe laces to thin rope, feed into the cylinder piston down, then hand turn the engine over till its tdc, the rope pushed the valves up and holds them there.
 


Scottydoggs said:
ive heard of yarn to shoe laces to thin rope, feed into the cylinder piston down, then hand turn the engine over till its tdc, the rope pushed the valves up and holds them there.
Click to expand...
So would that method work just as good as the air method? If it's pretty much the same I guess I should probably do it however he wants to since he has the experience.

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always listen you the one whos done it, and is helping, dad knows whats up.

air might be a bit faster, but with the rope theres no chance of a valve dropping on you.
 
I just did springs on a motor yesterday by turning the motor over and letting the valve sit on the piston. Using rope would make it a little easier, as the locks can be somewhat tough to install when the valve has the ability to drop about a half inch.
 
I know this is a dumb question but why do you have to remove the lifters to install a cam?

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What pulley should I start out with on the s1x? I was thinking just starting with a 3.2 or 3.25 but i feel like I should probably be able to do a 3.1. Currently have a 3.4, 20* timing, l36 bottom end, e54, headers, 1.9 rr, ported supercharger, ported throttle body and the pointless things like 104s, FWI etc.

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