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break line

T

tc300

New member
today on my lunch all of sudden i had like no breaks!! pedal would go all the way to the floor board only slowing the car down very little....

was close to home so i went there.. pumped the breaks a few times in my driveway and noticed a leak right by the fuel filter. could it just be a bad break line???
also i was just out there checking it again, you can hear a swoosh sound every time you apply the break..

is there anything else that would cause it...??!!


THANKX
 


you ran the master dry, so that kinda sucks to re bleed, but yes, you blew a brake line. you can cut out the old busted line, or take more to remove more rusted line.

theres two ways, one is to use a double flair tool and use line nuts and unions to joint the new to old line.

and the other is to use compression fittings.

to bledd the master, fill its res up with new fluid, then if you know how to bleed brakes, have some one pump the brake pedal, hold it then you crack the line nut to the master to let it leak the air out, the pedal pushers foot hits the floor, you lock the nut up before he lift his foot. then he pumpps th epedal back up and you crack the line. do this till you dont hear air spitting out any more. repeat for the other line.

then do the same for each wheel caliper to get the rest of the air out of the lines. watch and fill the res on the master as needed. if it goes dry, you have to start all over with bleeding the master again.

do all this after the line is repaired.
 
Once the master is done with bleeding, I like to open each bleeder on the caliper and let them all gravity bleed for 5 minutes first, top the master as needed then close them all and do each caliper be themselves. Start with a RR, LR, RF and LF.
 
since when? maybe if you dont know what your doing. its rather simple.

hell i made a one man bleeder so i can do it solo with no help at all.
 
well, at work we just installed a wilwood kit onto a mustang and bleeding brakes that have never been filled before is awful trying to get all the air out, one little microscopic leak ruins everything
 


camopaint0707 said:
well, at work we just installed a wilwood kit onto a mustang and bleeding brakes that have never been filled before is awful trying to get all the air out, one little microscopic leak ruins everything
Click to expand...

no its not, it just takes time to fill every thing. lol silly. OP dont listen to this guy, have at it. ive blown a rear line my self, had it all fixed and bled in like a hour, in the dead of winter too. and i had to run a 5 foot line across the rear of the car too.

key thing, cut the lines in a place that is easy to work in, so you can cut easily, and flair or use them compression fittings and turn a wrench easy. removing old rusted line is not a bad thing. so cut back to solid looking line.
 


all that has zero to do with bleeding the brakes. brakes are fing brakes, they all work the same way, since the 60's and up, maybe further back then that.

4 wheel drums were all the rave back then lol ever do drum brakes? those are fun if your scared of em. looks like a crab trap inside there lol
 
your opinion is yours, and its weak. sorry. we are not here discourage people from working on their car, but rather help them get through it. dont be such a negative Nancy.......

brakes are so easy its not funny.
 
Scottydoggs said:
your opinion is yours, and its weak. sorry. we are not here discourage people from working on their car, but rather help them get through it. dont be such a negative Nancy.......

brakes are so easy its not funny.
Click to expand...

^this! Probably were I get the gumption to talk most of my problems because these are a great group of people and there is always someone on here to answer questions
 


Scottydoggs, THANK YOU! So each wheel needs to be removed to bleed them all?? I put a drip pan under the leak, there's a good amount of fluid in there now..
 
yeah i meant to tell you to do that as the lines will gravity bleed dry with the line blown lower then the master.

yes each wheel need to come off, theres a bleeder valve on the side top part of the caliper.

you need two people to bled the master off the lines, but this will work for the rest easy as pie.


zip ties on the clear line is not needed if they are snug fitting.

 
Please, do not use compression fittings. Compressions fittings are not intended to hold up under high pressure and could blow off when you are really slamming the brakes (and need them most).

I know there are rednecks all over the internet that will tell you that compression fittings are okay, and nobody they know has ever had a problem, etc... but it's not worth the risk to save a little bit of time. People can die from hack jobs on brakes.


Use flares and unions, or better yet, replace the whole line since it's probably pretty badly rusted in several places. And bleeding the brakes isn't bad, just time consuming.
 
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