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BrandonHall10's 2001 Regal GS - The kids car now!

I like the 1st gen wheels. I think maybe a set of 2003 Buick GSX or GP GTX wheels would look good on it to, and the GTX wheels can be had in 17".
 


New stereo is in. Instal was super easy. Took longer to solder and heat shrink the harness then actually bolt it in.

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DMX4707S | Navigation and Multimedia | Car Entertainment | KENWOOD USA

Next step is the amp and subs.
 
Yeah.. Regals are not bad to install. I think it took me longer to walk side to side on car to pop dash panel face than the rest. Looks really good buddy, does wife love it? We all know "happy wife, happy life"
 
Scottydoggs said:
nice fit.
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It's cool when a plan comes together.

BillBoost37 said:
Yeah.. Regals are not bad to install. I think it took me longer to walk side to side on car to pop dash panel face than the rest. Looks really good buddy, does wife love it? We all know "happy wife, happy life"
Click to expand...

At first she was kind of... meh, but once I showed her the Android Auto and hands free calling stuff, she was all about it. Yeah, she likes it. Now that I've had some seat time with that stereo, I'm really eager to get some bass in there. I go back and forth, but the more I think about it, I'm leaning toward a single 10" in a custom box behind the wheel like you showed before. Something in the 300-500 watt range should be good.
 
I was surprised when it worked as well as it did. Look for a sub that doesn't require a lot of box space. The one I used needed .5 CF and when I measured up the box (cardboard mock up) it worked to be almost perfect in the space behind that wheel.
 


Wife was complaining about a massive front end shake between 35 and 50 mph under light acceleration. I replaced a leaking CV axle, sloppy outer tie-rod and a collapsed trans mount. Front end still shakes, but only slightly now. It's livable until I figure out the root cause. The rack is leaking so that may be next.

A special thanks to Big-O-Tire for cross threading one of my lug nuts.
 
Nothing more fun than having to replace a stud due to a place not taking a moment to start a lug by hand.

How's the other side CV joints, lot of play?
How do the subframe mounts look, any bolts to them loose?
I forget, did you flip the upper dog mounts? (I assume yes)
 
BillBoost37 said:
Nothing more fun than having to replace a stud due to a place not taking a moment to start a lug by hand.
Click to expand...

100% I understand that they're probably flat rate so every second counts. I'll even admit that I have started bolts/nuts that have crossed, but I actually stopped when I felt something wrong. A lot of times, even if you start something crossed, you can start over and force it onto the proper threads. This guy just said "F it" and sent it home. Come on man.

How's the other side CV joints, lot of play?
How do the subframe mounts look, any bolts to them loose?
I forget, did you flip the upper dog mounts? (I assume yes)
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1.) When I did the initial inspection it seemed fine. I will have to look again.
2.) I'll check that today also.
3.) You know I did!

Thanks Bill.

mguzzo said:
is that head unit a double DIN or GM 1.5 DIN sized?
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Double DIN / 4" opening. Kenwood DMX4707S Digital multimedia receiver (does not play CDs) at Crutchfield
 
Welp, I think I found the problem.

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Also swapped out a leaking oil pressure sensor and the broken wheel stud while I was there.
 


i think i see the problem, it looks like someone installed a couple radishes instead of bearings

wipe the grease out of the tulip and look at the ball wear path, if its like some youll find a fairly hard endge/ridge at the end of the worn area....this is what leads to vibrations when a motor mount is replaced or any work is done....those balls no longer ride in their original path and can end up bumping up the ledge which from the drivers seat will feel like a vibration as the ball rolls up the slop/ridge and then back down
 
Turbocharged400sbc said:
....this is what leads to vibrations when a motor mount is replaced or any work is done...
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I think that's exactly what happened. That shaft had been dry for a long time, like, way before we bought it. So long in fact that there were no traces of grease anywhere on the chassis and obviously rust was forming inside. All was fine until about a month ago when I replaced the motor mount. Then we got the shimmy shake.

All good now!
 
no thinking about it, its what happens, ive replaced 500 Cv's, all cars see it and its effects.

there's a reason that even though you CAN swap rockers and pushrods, n lifters around, because they are theoretically they all are the same dimensions/tolerances...components that wear together should stay together, and if something is changed, then your probably better off changing all components in contact/affected by the replacment.

people really dont like being told that they need 600+$ in CV shafts to fix an acceleration vibration as well as new engine and trans mounts....when all their lives they've hears "vibration? probably tires out of balance"
 
Wife took the Regal up to PHX last weekend. Got a text Friday evening, "right rear window won't go up."

Frig. I order a RR window regulator.

Get a text Saturday around noon, "my window won't go up."

FFS. Order a LF window regulator.

Get a text Saturday afternoon, "I have a flat tire"

Oh come on! You're kidding me. She wasn't kidding. Fortunately there was a big o tire just up the road to patch it, and some friends nearby helped her change it out.

Put in 2 new regulators and rotated the tires yesterday. Hopefully we are good for a while. Needless to say, I am counting down the hours before the other two regs poop the bed. I also need to find a tint guy, since the Gorilla tape they used to hold the windows up took out the 15 year old tint. Shrug.
 


New brakes today. I feel I could have gone a little longer. Happy to be rid of these dirty wheel maker pads. Replaced with ceramic metallic.

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Yep, time to junk those dusters. Should get more than a week between wheels cleaning now.

You ever get the tint redone on it?
 
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