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Brake Fluid flush

L

Logan541

New member
Ok getting ready to do f body upgrade in front and powder coat all calipers so I want to switch to D.O.T 4 while I am at it. Not sure if my method is sound but here is what I was thinking

1.)Remove all 4 calipers and while I am working them just let everything drain.
2.)Once everything is empty (Pump pedal if I need too )INCLUDING the master cylinder wipe out the inside of the master get it dry as I can
(I can alreday hear some of you yelling "NO!" but hold on).
3.)Disconnect the lines from the master cylinder shoot compressed air and a cleaner through all lines
4.) Replace the rubber brake lines with stainless,
5.)Connect return and inlet lines on the master cylinder to each other with some type a loop type thing (I will fab something).
6.)Fill the master cylinder with D.O.T. 4 and pump pedal to bleed.
7.)Now reattch all lines and calipers and bleed normally.

Should work no?
 


I'd suggest not putting anything in the lines except brake fluid. Reason being is you don't know how the fluid will react with the leftovers and there will be leftovers. The best way to clean things like this is to freshen up the fluid a few times.

Buy yourself a power bleeder (I like Motive) and then you'll have a one man bleeding party. Quick, easy and done.
 
i wish i had a cool power bleeder but i dont. so i flushed my fluid the old fashioned way.

i like to suck out whats in the master cylinder's tank of fluid as well. turkey baster works well. then fill with new fluid.

put your new calipers on, and the lines, i put a small 8mm wrench iirc on the bleeder nipple, then slid a vac line over the nipple, then put the vac line i a soda bottle. and heres where a friend comes in handy, to pump the brakes. have your pal pump 3 times and hold the pedal to the floor, you break the bleeder open, your pals foot goes further to the floor, he holds the pedal to the floor till you re sung the bleeder, and tell him to pump the brakes again. repeat till clean fluid comes out. it will take some time. make sure the master stays full, keep a eye on it, if it goes dry you will be re bleeding.



if your flushing the whole system, do the pass rear first, then d/s rear, then pass front, then d/s front last.

depending on your year, your abs pump may have 2 bleeders on it, have some one pump the brake, and bleed it like a brake.

and i picked up 2 large bottles of brake fluid and only used one. one bottle did all 4 calipers, and i still had a bit left over.
 
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Bleeders are 10mm FWIW. :th_thumbsup-wink:

Power bleeder is worth the small cost :th_thumbsup-wink::th_thumbsup-wink:

You could also invest a couple of dollars and get one man bleeders. They have a checkball that keeps fluid from going back. Makes it easy to crack one, go pump the pedal and then close it. :th_thumbsup-wink::th_thumbsup-wink::th_thumbsup-wink:
 


Logan541 said:
Ok getting ready to do f body upgrade in front and powder coat all calipers so I want to switch to D.O.T 4 while I am at it. Not sure if my method is sound but here is what I was thinking

1.)Remove all 4 calipers and while I am working them just let everything drain.
2.)Once everything is empty (Pump pedal if I need too )INCLUDING the master cylinder wipe out the inside of the master get it dry as I can
(I can alreday hear some of you yelling "NO!" but hold on).
3.)Disconnect the lines from the master cylinder shoot compressed air and a cleaner through all lines
4.) Replace the rubber brake lines with stainless,
5.)Connect return and inlet lines on the master cylinder to each other with some type a loop type thing (I will fab something).
6.)Fill the master cylinder with D.O.T. 4 and pump pedal to bleed.
7.)Now reattch all lines and calipers and bleed normally.

Should work no?
Click to expand...
Never ever go dry in the master cylinder ever. Just get it to where its right above the lines and wipe it out if you're going to swap fluid start with the closest to the master cylinder and work tour way out example driver side front passenger front driver rear passenger rear. Alas
If you don't wanna fork out cash for a bleeder go on YouTube and look up gravity bleed method.
 
you got your bleeding procedure wrong, you always do the furthest caliper first, and work you way back to the front.

and you can suck every last drop out of the master cylinders res, as long as you dont hit the brake pedal, suck it dry, then add new fluid, or you mixing old dirty fluid and new fluid, and sucking it drys no good cause you then suck air into he lines.
 


The issue behind sucking it dry, is that you might need to pull the master and bench bleed it if your pedal doens't feel good after you do it.

Follow me and you'll never go wrong. You'll get tortured, beaten and abused...but never wrong.
 
ive bench bled M/c on the car before, you just need a pedal pusher . brake rod does the same thing as the Philips screwdriver.

ive also bled them by pumping the breaks and then cracking the lines off the master loose. its a mess but works.
 
scottydoggs said:
you got your bleeding procedure wrong, you always do the furthest caliper first, and work you way back to the front.

and you can suck every last drop out of the master cylinders res, as long as you dont hit the brake pedal, suck it dry, then add new fluid, or you mixing old dirty fluid and new fluid, and sucking it drys no good cause you then suck air into he lines.
Click to expand...

For bleeding yes its always farthest away however for flushing old fluid and getting the cleanest fluid you can you start opposite
 
Ok so if some of the Dot 3 mixes with the dot 4 its ok? This i what I though but now some people claim they are not compatible some claim they are You guysI trust more than internt ghosts
 
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